A very, very bad bearing

[RacingJake]

Found my problem, it's the #4 rod bearing. Most likely the bearing failed or the cage which also push the thrust bearing out too. The other bearings are good and the crank is not twisted. I guess over 27,000 miles and 800 runs caused it :roll:

You can see a few of the needle bearings moving around in there. The rod is toast and that part of the crank may be beyond repair?

Even like that she ran a 6.30 at 106. I say it was my lucky night.

Good thing is I have a 83 big end crank that is factory welded just waiting to go in.

 

[lecroy]

post a few pics of that factory welded 83 crank.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I wouldn't through it away It still may be repairable

 

[Hap Call]

Because it is a pressed together crank, you can fix it. Falicon does this kind of work all the time.

Hap

 

[RacingJake]

They could but I figure it would cost a few bucks like around 1K to fix it. Luckly I have two welded crankshafts now, one for the 1395 and the other is going into my backup 1166. I'll use it like Rosco's door stopper

$100 for tear down and inspection only

$400 to put it back together

$80 for a rod

$28 for each bearing

$140 for the leftside part of the crankshaft

$140 for the rightside part of the crankshaft

 

[RacingJake]

First pic is the oem welded crank. It is only welded at 4 spots along the centerline of the crankshaft. The welds are machine welds only 1/4 wide and half moons.

Second pic is hand welded. All are welded except for the #3 and #4 connecting rods throws??? These's weld are alot wider and almost make a complete circle.

I guess when the crankshafts twist's it's along the centerline and not the connecting rod throws???

Maybe somebody knows more???

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

When Yoshi was racing the GS1000's the factory came up with a super duper glue for crankshaft assembly

 

[lecroy]

Thanks for posting those. I don't remember ever seeing any half moons like that in any of my 83's.

 

[ronin1166]

I guess when the crankshafts twist's it's along the centerline and not the connecting rod throws???

Good question. I had (sold) a factory-welded 83 GS1100SD crank, and also have a Falicon Supercrank in my '81 GS1100E.
I don't recall if either one was welded at the rod pins.

When Yoshi was racing the GS1000's the factory came up with a super duper glue for crankshaft assembly

Yep, in the '70's and '80's, Pops Yoshimura believed that welding heat actually weakened cranks. So he used wicked-voodoo Loctite instead. Don't think he had many crank-twist issues, either.
But he was also roadracing, not drag-racing...totally different critter from a stress perspective.

Ted

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

They were also not running an rotor/stator total loss system

 

[Hap Call]

Jake,

If you're interested in selling the crank, let me know. I would like to see what it takes to take the welds out and press the crank apart. I have access to a heavy-duty hydraulic press and would like to try. With a truing bar I should be able to press it back together. At least I would learn something even if I didn't succeed.

Hap

 

[RacingJake]

Thanks for the offer Hap, but I was thinking of doing the same thing.

This crank is not welded so it should come a part OK. I know an owner of a machine shop that can press it apart. A 5-Ton press should do the trick. I do see 4 holes on the counter weights of #2 & #3 and #1 & #4 so it shouldn't be much of a problem pressing it back together, just knowing when to stop would be my concern :?

 

[lecroy]

You could always send me the crank. I can send you enough money to buy some other crank to experiment on. Something a bit less rare.

When I was a kid (this is going back) I had a Hodaka (SP) ACE super rat. I lost the lower rod bearing. I actually pressed it apart in a shop vice and pressed it back together the same way. There were some holes that I ran some bolts through to somehow get it apart and realign it. I then just used some v blocks, mic and a mallet to get the final setting. Ran it for a few years after that.

 

[massakins]

Guys, I've replaced rods/bearings/primary drive gears on many of these cranks, trued them and raced them successfully, including the factory welded ones. All from my home shop using a hydraulic press, bearing puller, truing stand, brass hammer, dial indicator and an 18" length of TGP. It is not impossible but does require a good feel for precision and sound understanding of what you are doing. It requires a minimum 20 ton jack to disassemble, unless you heat it (not recommended due to sensitive bearing materials in close proximity). Will share info regarding specific crank repairs, but it's too extensive to list all operations.

It's not for the faint hearted.

Falicon has always been a quality provider as well as Gardner Racing Cranks. I'm sure there are others.