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Acceleration Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anthony
  • Start date Start date
A

Anthony

Guest
Hey all,
So since I've got my bike working Monday, I've gone on three short rides, with today being the longer one of about 30 minutes (non-continuous). So two big issues I've felt so far are:

When I try and feather out of first with the throttle, it is really slow to get in gear. Like it takes about 5 seconds to get in gear completely and finally go, it feels like a moped in the aspect of starting out.

Secondly, when I hit about 5000 RPM, the power seems to hit all at once, but it doesn't get too much faster. I can feel the bike jump, and want to go fast, but it takes much longer to get to 7-8k than expected. Is this normal after the first few rides after sitting for over a year, or is this a valve adjustment needing to happen?

So far I've cleaned a lot of the electrical connections with contact spray, took apart the carbs to clean out the float bowls and jets/fuel rail, as they were severely clogged, and I drained and cleaned out the gas tank, and put brand new ethanol-free gas in it, in conjunction with an inline fuel filter. No gaskets or o-rings were replaced during all this. Any suggestions? :confused:
 
Also, the idle is horrible. When it's cold, I have to rev it to get it warm or turn up the idle, because any amount of choke will kill it. And when it gets warm, and have to start it again, it does the exact same thing. Also, while I ride I have to constantly adjust the idle because it will go up to 2500 at a stop light, and then a little bit later the idle will be so low that it will kill itself. This happens when the bike is hot and cold. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I can relay information to my father who is. What is going on??
 
Sounds like an air leak around the carbs.
Could be caused by the old, hard o-rings that MUST be replaced.
Could also be the rubber manifolds themselves leaking.
Carbs will have to come off again for a proper cleaning.
 
Somehow, I get the impression that you have not adjusted the valves or cleaned the carbs. :-\\\

Correct? :-k

Sorry, but until you do ALL the maintenance, that is what you get.
icon_shrug.gif


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How long have you had the bike and how much maintenance have you done on it?

Cleaned carbs
Air filter
Valve adjustment

any of these done?
 
Carbs have been cleaned lightly, like I said the jets, fuel rail, and float bowls were cleaned with carb cleaner. No o-rings or gaskets were replaced. I'm guessing I need to do a complete rebuild with new o-rings and maybe new gaskets? No valve adjustments either, because I have no clue how to do that.
 
Anthony said:
Carbs have been cleaned lightly, like I said the jets, fuel rail, and float bowls were cleaned with carb cleaner. No o-rings or gaskets were replaced. I'm guessing I need to do a complete rebuild with new o-rings and maybe new gaskets? No valve adjustments either, because I have no clue how to do that.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's not going to work.
 
Go here for manual..both the 8 and 16 valve 750s are listed. Also, scroll down and on the right side youll see the carbs rebuild tutorials..pick which applies and do all the maintenance. Roberbarr here has a website called cycleorings.com..get the oring kit AND the intake boot orings. When you take the carbs off and get the intake boots off measure the ID of the groove the oring goes in so you get the right size for them.

Carbs rebuilt
Valves adjusted
New intake orings
Timing checked
Be sure cam chain tensioner is working properly
Carbs gauge synced
New air filter ( start with a clean new one to eliminate that problem right off the bat ).

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
No one mentioned it, but check the cam timing too. POs seem to screw that up quite often. I always check when I get a new GS, quite often it's off a tooth, or even a few teeth.

Maybe it even left the factory that way once in a while.
 
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So I need guidance on what should be done first to test these problems out. Should I check for vacuum leaks first? then move on to the more in depth things with the carbs and valves? Also, where can I get new head gaskets and carb gaskets at? I know the site for the o-rings, but do those o-rings include the intake o-rings as well?
 
You need to do all of them so you have a maintenance baseline

Then you can sort out your problems

Vendors are listed in the megawelcome, as is the Top 10 Newbie mistake list
 
cycleorings has the intake orings as well. Once you get them off, measure the inside diameter so you know what size to order. He has several sizes listed.

And not to be insulting or mean, but it basically boils down to this simple truth. You either do all the maintenance or you do none. Without EVERYTHING being done youll never know what is and isnt a problem..its just that simple.
 
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I will eventually get the maintenance done that should be done, but it will be a process because of time and money restrictions right now. So I just want to know what I can do right now, cheap, to improve or narrow down the issue while I get to the in depth maintenance things.
 
Cheapest would be to buy a well maintained machine to ride while this one is down for maintenance. Or just work fast and do it all at once. Riding it as is and burning stuff up is not economical.
 
Well I have two other vehicles, so I don't need to ride it at all, I of course want to get it fixed as fast as possible. Ideally by the end of the summer, as I won't have time once classes start back up. When I say I need to wait, I mean two-three weeks. And I still need to run out my current tank of gas since I put seafoam in it and I want it to clean out my system.
 
If I wanted to do the cheapest and easiest first I would do the valve adjustments. Need a cam cover gasket, some metric feeler gauges, some RTV for above the rubber half moon cam end plugs,and an hr or so time wise.

Get whatever shims you need from the Ray at the shim club. How that works is you check all the clearances and shuffle whatever you can to get as many valves set. Then you PM Ray and tell him what sizes you need for the ones out of spec..if any. Once the replacements get there you swap them out and send Ray back the ones you no longer need. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE------DO NOT EVER rotate the crank without a shim in a bucket!!!

This is the thread I started on how I go about doing the checks and recording each cylinders shim, gap, shim thats needed, etc etc.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=204012&highlight=simplified+spreadsheet
 
I've been looking for somewhere that sells a cam cover gasket, but I can't seem to find it. Where is this elusive cover gasket selling?
 
As for the gas in the tank now. Use a length of vacuum line or whatever else fits the fuel nipple and set the petcock on the PRIme spot and it will drain itself in to the gas can. And have you also inspected the tank to be sure its as rust free as possible?? And just because it looks good in the filler neck doesnt necessarily mean the entire tank looks like that so dont take things for granted.

Flashlight and a small inspection mirror is a good idea to see how the rear and the edge seams look like..which is where most of the crap is gonna build up and for bad spots.
 
I just cleaned out the gas tank this weekend really good of all the rust, and put a new protective liner in it, and there was no more rattling rust in it. It's as good as it's gonna get as far as that goes, and I also put an inline fuel filter in.
 
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