Actual carb removal

[Steve]

Oh, and don't forget that it helps to have a good work space.

Clean, well-lit and organized. Some disposable muffin tins make GREAT parts holders.

.

 

[elrico]

Steve has 'soshiki":"organization", SuzukiDon has got it going on , all the great willing to share /contribute members of GSR an endless list..we all fortunate to they are so good to us in times needing info/answers/directives and those pictures;speaking volumes...wow..what a site/source GSR is.

 

[Lucero]

Oh, and don't forget that it helps to have a good work space.

Clean, well-lit and organized. Some disposable muffin tins make GREAT parts holders.

.

This makes me think my basement is probably the best place to do the work. My garage is a wreck, I've been cleaning it out (it was full, and i mean FULL of junk when i bought the place a lil under two years ago. Just had it boarded up for the first year, but opened it up in the spring. I live in the hood, had to be boarded or I got street urchins lurking around and I didn't really need the space at the time. That's changed lately, .

And yes, elrico, these guys have been invaluable to me so far.

 

[elrico]

Si,si..all of us,in this... vintage GS 'ness.They all very wonderfull allies.

 

[jaywelchy]

Got'em out yet??

Its tight, but you will get it. CafeKid said it right ... thats how I did it, just inch them out and after a certain point they will fall into your hands.

Clean work table ... important I got four large plastic bins, marked 1,2,3, and 4 .. as I took the carbs apart, each part goes in the right bin, then lid back on. Like an assembly line. Once all is apart .. then look closely and see what needs attention/replacement.

I have to tell you .. I rebuilt my 550 carbs .. before I found this site. Still ran like crap. Due to the "mystery" of the CV carbs (to me anyhoo) I took it in to a shop with a mechanic who claimed to be an "old factory suzuki mechanic" in the early 80's. After 3 .. THREE complete carb rebuilds, and a price tag of 500 bucks, he didnt get it to run any better than I had. Yea, I didnt pay 500 bucks ......

I printed out the carb tutorial here, got the right parts, and carefully rebuilt the carbs completely. And now it runs AWESOME

This is why these guys say NO shop .. you can do it, and do it correctly.

Jason

 

[keman]

Diggin the muffin trays... Was trying to figure out something to use when I do my carbs next week.

 

[Steve]

Diggin the muffin trays... Was trying to figure out something to use when I do my carbs next week.

Warning, they are VERY expensive. :-\\\

I got them at Big Lots. The 6-place tins come in a package of two for 99 cents. I got two packages, so it was about $2.12 with tax.

(Yeah, there are more than four tins in the picture. I liked the idea, so I went back and got more.)

.

 

[Lucero]

Guys, it's been a busy holiday season for me and I haven't even touched the bike since October!!! (I do a lot of traveling in Oct/Nov) This unseasonably warm weather has me regretting that I have put the carb rebuild off so long. I am planning to run around this weekend and buy most of the stuff on Steve's list, as well as order the o-ring/intake kits.

That, and buy a new (used) refridgerator and some other crap for household projects. Just wanted to stop by and say hello after an extended hiatus. I'll be bummed if I get this done in a few weeks and we get four feet of snow, but damn, I'd be out on it right now if I hadn't put it off this long. Gotta get it done.

 

[Lucero]

cycleorings.com

cycleorings.com

- Yes, you will need to spurge eventually, so go ahead and get your Carbtune synchronizer, that will be 68 Pounds ($102.32).

I have access to a car mechanic's full shop; is there something they are likely to have in-shop that I could substitute for the carbtune synchronizer to avoid this cost?

While you are there, go ahead and get the intake boot o-rings and stainless hardware, less than $10.

I've got a paypal cart full of o-ring kits and intake o-rings, but I'm not sure what size screws I need. My bike isn't listed on his page, and I tried looking at the flatout website he links to, but I don't know which part I'm looking for on the carb blowout diagram.

Does anyone know what I need for an '82 GS 550L?

Thanks as always for your help, everyone.

Lucero

 

[Pendulum]

Plenty of good advice so far, but my own secret that's helped me out is some rubber safe lube or grease on the engine and air box side boots.

 

[allojohn]

If you have a digital camera, take a couple of dozen photos as you go. Don't rely on memory alone. You'll be glad you did when you start putting it back together.

 

[Lucero]

Quick update, with pictures to follow when I can post them (not at home right now):

The carbs are off, disassembled, and taking turns in some carb-dip as we speak.

I had a friend over with more experience than me who helped extensively. After getting the carbs out and disassembled, I noticed a huge crack in one of the airbox intake boots. We went ahead and popped off the air box, filter, and intake. I think since I'd have to replace the boots, and likely the box itself for reasons stated previously in the thread, that I'm going to go ahead and make the switch to those air filters.

We also had to snip one of the fuel lines because it was so old it wouldn't budge.

Right now the biggest question is probably what am I going to mount all the electrical to since the airbox system is going to be gone.

 

[Lucero]

Hey, also, I was going to double post the above in my welcome thread, but I can no longer find it. Are those removed as they get older? It probably hadn't been updated since October. Thx.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

If you're going to go with pod filters on your CV carbs, you need to do two things if you ever want to get it running close to right:

1) Use QUALITY pods! APE or K&N, no Emgos. The former are reputed to be equal, but APEs are much cheaper.

2) Get a Dynojet jet and needle kit!

https://cart.jetkit.com/p-534-jet-kit-550-cc-suz-82-gs550-katana.aspx

What would really be suggested is to go ahead and get it running right with the stock airbox, then go to pods. I looked briefly but did not see - what is wrong with your current air box (besides boots; I may have some workable ones you could have, BTW)? Perhaps you could find an eBay replacement?

 

[Lucero]

I looked briefly but did not see - what is wrong with your current air box (besides boots; I may have some workable ones you could have, BTW)? Perhaps you could find an eBay replacement?

Yeah, I think that info was covered in my welcome thread, which appears to have bit the dust due to inactivity. Basically, one of the last two previous owners drilled a hole into the airbox so he could blow carb cleaner into it rather than properly clean and rebuild the carbs. That and the giant crack in one of the intake boots could possibly be the cause of a host of issues the bike was having.

I had read up on replacing it with pods a bit before. Your tips jostled my memory. Remembering the dyno jet kit makes me think you may be correct that it's just best to replace stock for now. I really just want to get it running properly. No need for big mods just yet.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Alpha-sports parts cross-reference says the assembly from the following bike should fit:

1981 SUZUKI GS550LX - AIR CLEANER
1981 SUZUKI GS550TX - AIR CLEANER
1982 SUZUKI GS550LZ - AIR CLEANER

Didn't see any compatibles on eBay right now on a cursory glance.

 

[spyug]

It hasn't been mentioned but when the carb boots get stiff with age it helps to heat them up prior to reinserting the carbs. Heat will soften them up and make them pliable again and the perfect tool for this is the electric paint strip gun. These are available from most DYI stores these days and are getting quite affordable at $20 or under. Like a hairdryer on steroids they can burn so becareful.

Once the rubber is hot it will get soft enough to insert the carbs but it also helps to use some silicone lube or even WD40 to help. You can do this with both the manifold boots and the airbox boots just be careful not to burn them or you own fingers.

Another good tool for carb insertion I find is a ratchet (tie down) strap. If you put the strap around the head and over the airbox side of the carb, you can position the mouth of the carbs into the manifold and ratchet them into position. With warmed boots and a little lube they will pop right in. As the others have mentioned make sure you fix your throttle cable and choke cable (if there is one) to the carbs before inserting them.

Each time you have carbs in and out you will find it is not really hard and your speed will improve. On a good day I can get them out in about 10 minutes now and maybe even a little less putting them back in. There is a lot less swearing going on too

Good luck with it and let us know when you have it sorted.

cheers,
Spyug

 

[Lucero]

Update on not much progress

Update on not much progress

Hey guys,

Just wanted to post an update on what little progress has been made. This is more a result of other commitments than anything else. I'm anxious to get her running for obvious reasons...or should I say seasons?

So last I posted I think I mentioned we removed the carbs and disassembled them. Well, there were a few things I didn't mention, so here is where progress is currently at:

- The pilot jet was stuck in carb number four. I recruited a mechanic friend to take a stab at that and with application of some heat and tools I don't own, he was able to remove the little bastard.

- There is another piece, a rubber stopper from the looks of it, that is missing from one carb. I believe this was lost in disassembly. Without Nessism's guide in front of me, I can't tell you what part it goes to.

- Lastly, I do believe I need to replace a few of these o-rings, but I have yet to order the o-ring kit.

- Then there is still the airbox with the hole drilled in it, the one cracked intake boot, and the missing foam for the air filter.

- Oh, and I may as well mention that we have to replace a hose that we cut because it was so aged we couldn't remove it, even with plyers and all the force we could muster.

I know I promised some pics, and there will be a few posted soon.

edit: Oh yeah, part of the point of posting the above was to ask, any good recommendations on where to replace that jet? Should I just replace all four with some aftermarket ones? Advice? I'm in Ohio if anyone knows anywhere local, but I'm more than happy to use the web as well.

 

[Lucero]

The carbs just after removal from the bike

Float and bowl assembly

View of bowl grime

Pilot jet

 

[Lucero]

A few more pics

A few more pics

Here are a few more pics of the ongoing project.

Giant crack in intake boot:

Hole drilled in the airbox by a lazy former owner:

Air intake system disassembled:

The girl with all her insides torn out: