• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

adjustable cam sprocket bolt torque

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tarbash 27
  • Start date Start date
T

Tarbash 27

Guest
I have adjustable cam sprockets I will be putting on my set of webcams for my gs1000 engine. How tight should I torque the bolts down to? I obviously dont want the sprockets to shift postition on the cam. The stock torque on the bolts is 6-8 ft lbs for regular cam sprockets.

Also, should I use red high strength locktite on these or will the heat of the engine going to burn that off?
 
6.5 to 8.5 W/ red Locktight is perfect. Is this your first time for timing the cams?

It can make a big difference if you do it right!
 
Do you have any tips for us MR GORDON. On how to do it right that is.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
I have adjustable cam sprockets I will be putting on my set of webcams for my gs1000 engine. How tight should I torque the bolts down to? I obviously dont want the sprockets to shift postition on the cam. The stock torque on the bolts is 6-8 ft lbs for regular cam sprockets.

Also, should I use red high strength locktite on these or will the heat of the engine going to burn that off?
Click to expand...

The red loctite will not burn off but it might certainly bake on and if undisturbed for several years may require lots of heat to break loose if & when that time comes.

The GS1000 & 750's 2V use allen head bolts to secure the cam sprockets & cams while the GS1100 & 750 4V use bolts. When I slotted my stock GS1000 cam sprockets back in the 1980's I used red loctite that had been date code expired and tightened the allen head bolts as tight as possible with a standard 5" long allen head wrench. Why, because as you have noticied the surface area under the cam sprocket bolts has been greatly reduced and you are no worried about the sprockets slipping. The Allen head bolt is only contacting cam sprockets along two small arcs vs. the stock 360 degrees. When I revisited cam timing again years later I needed a propane torch to break them free. I even dented the inner hex of the allen head's and I was praying I would get them out.

Rapidray & other drag racer's always use red locktite and sometimes tack weld that sprocket bolt in place so it does not move but I prefer easy servicing but then again I have a street bike. Last year I revisited cam timing again and replaced the stock GS Allen Head bolts with the following. Have a look, the flange head allen head bolt provides more surface area with the cam sprocket and does not interfere with the cam chain operation.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=129217&highlight=cam+sprocket+bolt
 
Well This is my first time timing cams. I did buy those better sprocket bolts from mcmaster carr. They are cut to the perfect length. I would like to keep these as tight as possible but dont want to strip them out. Since I will have to take the cams back out to do a valve adjustment, I could tack weld them, but I really dont want to just in case I have to fine tune them.

I will play with them tomorrow .
 
Sorry about the long winded response then Matt. You probably read the same threads because I recall Rapidray & Big Jay or someone talking about a V&H cam timing video, it would be great if they could provide a link to that process.

The biggest "challenge" I have found with degreeing cams is the 1" Dial Indicator stem is too fat to easily fit between the cam & bucket at max lift. If anything touches while rotating you have to start all over again. I unscrewed the knurled tip on the dial indicator and added a thin extension which made the process much easier. Good luck.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Do you have any tips for us MR GORDON. On how to do it right that is.
Click to expand...

I usually take the measurements at 50 thousands lift but use whatever the cam manufacturer recommends. I use a plate that bolts to the top of the head and an magnetic base stand that swivels so that you can set your dial indicator at the same angle as the valve springs and you can make it where is clears the rockers on the down stroke.


Use a positive stop and a nice big degree wheel on the ignition side with a pointer. Make sure you're close to TDC looking at the timing mark. Rotate the engine back easy until it stops and read the degree wheel. Rotate the engine forward direction until it stops again and read the degree wheel. In the middle of those two numbers is TDC absolute.

Set the valves at the normal clearance and set up the dial indicator. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation and watch the dial indicator until it hits 50 thousands. Write down that number. Rotate the engine again in the normal direction of rotation and when the dial indicator stops at the last 50 thousands before it zero's read it and write down the number.

Lobe center = Opening + closing + 180 / 2 - the smallest number.

Example

Opens at ...................30
Closes at ...................70
Plus .........................180
Total.........................280
Divided by 2...............140
Minus smallest number...30
Lobe Center...............110 degrees

I set the exhaust first and then the intake.




Hope this helps.
 
That sounds great MR GORDON. I am gathering information for when I eventually get my cams back in. What is the best figure for the GSs. Would it be the same for the big motors and the small ones.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
That sounds great MR GORDON. I am gathering information for when I eventually get my cams back in. What is the best figure for the GSs. Would it be the same for the big motors and the small ones.
Click to expand...


Depends on what you like. Top 110 ex./110 in. or Bottom 110 ex. /106 in.
You'll get different answers on all this.

You can call me Mr. Gordon ( not capped ) if you like (-:
 
jgordon said:
Depends on what you like. Top 110 ex./110 in. or Bottom 110 ex. /106 in.
You'll get different answers on all this.

You can call me Mr. Gordon ( not capped ) if you like (-:
Click to expand...

Is there any reason that you set up the exhaust first before moving on to the inlet. What is the reason for leaving the exhaust on 110 for top end and bottom end, and moving the inlet only from 110 to 106 (are we retarding the inlet a bit).
 
Last edited:
rapidray said:
Just so you know, a smaller # on the intake lobe center is ADVANCED, not retarded! Ray.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ray. Is there a decent article around that takes you from go to whoa on doing the cam timing, lobe centre, thing for us that are comfortable working on engines but have not done this task before.

Thanks.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Thanks Ray. Is there a decent article around that takes you from go to whoa on doing the cam timing, lobe centre, thing for us that are comfortable working on engines but have not done this task before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Suzuki_Don,

Didn't I provide you with a Pdf link to a "Degreeing Cam" article from Custom Rider Sept 1981? I thought I did bit I might be suffering from crs, so excuse me. Custom Rider (Off Shoot of Cycle Guide) wasn't around long but it was stuffed full of technical articles

I found this article on the Forum useful as well. Hope it helps

http://medlem.spray.se/biker661/Camtiming.htm
 
Hi Thanks Super,

Yes that article does look familiar now. I think it is me going senile and getting forgetful. Thanks a lot.
 
srsupertrap said:
Suzuki_Don,

Didn't I provide you with a Pdf link to a "Degreeing Cam" article from Custom Rider Sept 1981? I thought I did bit I might be suffering from crs, so excuse me. Custom Rider (Off Shoot of Cycle Guide) wasn't around long but it was stuffed full of technical articles

I found this article on the Forum useful as well. Hope it helps

http://medlem.spray.se/biker661/Camtiming.htm
Click to expand...

I was sweating it but it looks like I was close to having it right (-:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top