Adjustable Cam Sprokets

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Dose anyone have the procedure for properly timeing my 80 1100E useing Adjustable cam sprokets. I have a stage 1 jet kit, orginal air box with a K&N high flow air filter, V&H megaphone header and a 1166 kit.

The Beast

 

[jgordon]

Dose anyone have the procedure for properly timeing my 80 1100E useing Adjustable cam sprokets. I have a stage 1 jet kit, orginal air box with a K&N high flow air filter, V&H megaphone header and a 1166 kit.

The Beast

This is not for the faint of heart. You need a degree wheel, a dial indicator and a base or jig made up to hold the dial indicator. You need a positive stop device to find absolute TDC. If you want to do this yourself let me know and I will explain it a little better.

 

[RacingJake]

For starter's I'd set the #1 cylinder to TDC then have the cam sprockets alittle loose and set the cam sprockets up per the book. Dot 1 level with the gasket cover base, #2 straight up on the exhaust side then get #3 on the intake 20 pins from #2. Then I'd adjust both notch's on the end of the cam to face each other.

Just like using the oem sprockets.

Then I'd install the degree wheel, dail indicator with a magnetic base and go from there. You can use a pistion stop or the dial indicater to find TDC through the sparkplug hole then just move your pointer to TDC once you find it.

R1+R2+180 divided by 2-R1 = cam timing... ie 110 degrees. Then move on to the other cam
R1 will always be the lower number of the two when substracting.
R1 and R2 readings should be taken at .040 or .050 of opening and closing height of valve. Dial indicator set up on the retainer works real good here.

It will take some practice to figure it out.

The biggest thing is to check valve to piston clearance after you done and before starting the engine. Cause the intake gets real close when it's opening. It's just starting to open before the the piston has gone past TDC. 50 thou on the intake and 75thou on the exhaust is the bare minimum.

Ther are a few web site's like Muzzy that talk more about it if you get alittle lost.

 

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Thanks for the information. I belive that I will by pass the Adjustible Cam Sprockets at this time since it seams to be a little more than my limited knowledge can handle.

The Beast

 

[RacingJake]

It's not as hard as it sounds once you do it a few times. But if you do just give us a post and will help you out.

 

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Thanks Jake,
That make me feel a lot better. I have the Cam Sprokets and at this time I am just waiting for my new pistons. Once I complete the new piston install you will be hearing from me. Speaking of pistons. Can you tell me how you re-seat yours. I was told to use a hose clamp to compress the rings but every time I do it causes me problems. Do you have a better way? I have looked every where for a ring compression tool but they are hide to find. I couple of guys I spoke with said that they just use a couple of extra helpers and insert them by hand. Sure do not want to make a mistake with these new parts.

The Beast

 

[RacingJake]

Sometimes they give me problems too. I just get pistons 2&3 up and put the bike in gear. Then work the block back and fourth. I just use my fingers and a small screwdrive to help push the rings in as they tend to bind on the bottom of the sleeve alittle. Then as the sleeves are just past the wrist pins I put the bike back in neutral and bring pistons 1&4 up and work them into their bores.

The biggest problem I have is those darn teflon buttons, one always seems to fall out and end up below the crank. Then I have to pull the block off again and fish it out with a coat hangar.

I heard of some folks using some PVC pipe and or maybe cut in half with some hose clamps to keep it together as a ring compressor??

 

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Thanks Again Jake. I was thinking of building a ring compressor along the same lines but never thougt to use PVC pipe or to cut it in half and use a hose clamp. Man the ideas you can get from one post.

The Beast

 

[Guest]

Please don't use a screw driver on piston rings. That's what they made Popcicle sticks for.

Jay

 

[biker66]

Instructions on cam degreeing is available at my site.
If you chamfer the edges of the sleeves properly the rings almost find their way in by themselves

 

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Instructions on cam degreeing is available at my site.
If you chamfer the edges of the sleeves properly the rings almost find their way in by themselves

Please explain Chamfering and how you do it. I know it means to round the edge of the cylander but I would prefer a good explanition and procedure.

The Beast

 

[jgordon]

Instructions on cam degreeing is available at my site.
If you chamfer the edges of the sleeves properly the rings almost find their way in by themselves

The factory manual for the 1980-1983 GS1100 here in the states says
Intake opens @ 30
closes @ 70

lobe center => 110

Exhaust opens @ 63
closes @ 25

lobe center => 109

You have a nice website but the cam timing numbers are all over the place and it could confuse the novice person timing their cams for the first time. A good setting for the top end is factory and if you want a little more off the bottom put the intake at 106 and leave the exhaust at 110. I have the original factory manual that came with my brand new maroon 1980 GS1100.
I'm not trying to be argumentative and maybe the numbers are different in Sweden (-:

 

[Guest]

I have heard that zip ties work realy well for compressing rings.