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adjustable preload caps for gs1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter Darkspeed
  • Start date Start date
I had a set of GS1000G forks here with OE preload adjusters, I thought those would be nice in our racebike's GS1000E forks - both 37mm stanchions - but they were a different size thread...
The only 37mm stanchions those are guaranteed to fit are GS500....
 
Yeah its a guessing game. The way it looks there are a lot more variables than I thought to fitting a set up than just "37mm".
 
Why do you feel you need easily-adjustable preload? :-k

Yeah, it might take about an hour or so when you put the forks together to dial them in, but after that, isn't it pretty much "leave them alone"?

Preload just adjusts your ride height. Changing the length of a spacer tube when assembling the forks will do the same thing. If you happen to not get the height correct, you do have to open up the top of the fork and change the spacer, but as mentioned, it's a one-time effort.

.
 
Steve said:
Why do you feel you need easily-adjustable preload? :-k


Preload just adjusts your ride height.
.
Click to expand...
Preload does a whole lot more than just that. It alters characteristics of how the forks work under cornering, acceleration and under braking.
 
Agemax said:
Preload does a whole lot more than just that. It alters characteristics of how the forks work under cornering, acceleration and under braking.
Click to expand...

My fork caps are junk(clear coat flaking, deep gouges from channel lock teeth, leaking air valve and missing valve cap. I could just do OEM but this is a chance to add the ability to tune as well. Yes it may be overkill for a vintage bike, but it will be riden in a spirited way and I like the abilities to tweak after baseline sag to get the bike handling the way I want it to.
 
Thanks. I'll see if I can track down a pair...not offered from suzuki nos parts I take it.
 
Darkspeed said:
My fork caps are junk(clear coat flaking, deep gouges from channel lock teeth, leaking air valve and missing valve cap. I could just do OEM but this is a chance to add the ability to tune as well. Yes it may be overkill for a vintage bike, but it will be riden in a spirited way and I like the abilities to tweak after baseline sag to get the bike handling the way I want it to.
Click to expand...

You don't need air if you have the correctly rated fork springs and fork oil.
 
Fork preload adjusters really don't do much for you. They are used only to set sag (or should be, anyway), and that is generally a one time job. Unless the load on your front end changes dramatically (maybe you put a Vetter Windjammer on in the winter?) it's just not something you mess with.
 
The 83 1100E ones DO NOT fit the earlier 37mm forks just in case that's of use... :) (you can however fit the whole fork leg)
 
Darkspeed, I had something similar on my GS500 forks..... and they leaked fork oil. Still have them somewhere out in the garage - if you want to pay shipping they're yours.
 
Sure. For the cost of shipping I will see if they fit and if the o rings are replaceable. Pretty much set on the katana ones but if there is a cheaper and more easily available alternative i will let you guys know. Address pmed.
 
Finally warmed up a little and starting to do some work on the bikes. Thankyou to big rich who sent me some gs500 ones. They are the 35mm eBay type I was originally considering. They do not fit for the gs1000 forks and are not able to be machined to do so, but I know a guy who is building a gs500 for his girlfriend so I will pass them along.
 
i have a set of fork springs and emulators for my '82 katana. Race tech sent me instructions covering quite a bit of information on different types of forks. The diagram shows the spacer on top of the damper rod and then the emulator. correct? (stock spring length -race tech spring length-emulator=spacer length) Can i work from there to set preload? I changed the bearing in the triple tree so both shocks are off.

It says to drill two more holes to make four. The damper rod already has four. Drill these four holes to 1/4"?


For the anti-dive it says drill below to eliminate the anti-dive. If i already have four holes and the anti-dive is working what should i do to eliminate?

To set preload do you have to fish the spacer out of the completely assembled front end.

Darkspeed if you want to fine tune your bike for racing the gold emulators seem like the way to go.
 
mcneilk said:
i have a set of fork springs and emulators for my '82 katana. Race tech sent me instructions covering quite a bit of information on different types of forks. The diagram shows the spacer on top of the damper rod and then the emulator. correct? (stock spring length -race tech spring length-emulator=spacer length) Can i work from there to set preload? I changed the bearing in the triple tree so both shocks are off.

It says to drill two more holes to make four. The damper rod already has four. Drill these four holes to 1/4"?


For the anti-dive it says drill below to eliminate the anti-dive. If i already have four holes and the anti-dive is working what should i do to eliminate?

To set preload do you have to fish the spacer out of the completely assembled front end.

Darkspeed if you want to fine tune your bike for racing the gold emulators seem like the way to go.
Click to expand...


bumpest it
 
Sorry mine is a 78 gs1000. Install will be different on your kat. And your preload adjusters make spacer length less critical.
 
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