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Advice for case guard install

  • Thread starter Thread starter beardedmonkey
  • Start date Start date
B

beardedmonkey

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Finally won an auction on ebay for case guards on my 1978 GS 750. Question: anything special I should know about installing them? They're 3-point, and they came off another bike so I'm assuming the long bolt that comes with them is long enough (I've read that it's sometimes not), but I've also read people having concerns about leaving the engine mounted only to the rear bolts. Suggestions?
 
beardedmonkey said:
Finally won an auction on ebay for case guards on my 1978 GS 750. Question: anything special I should know about installing them? They're 3-point, and they came off another bike so I'm assuming the long bolt that comes with them is long enough (I've read that it's sometimes not), but I've also read people having concerns about leaving the engine mounted only to the rear bolts. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

When I put mine on my 850, a new long bolt came with them. But I also had to replace 1 bolt on the bottom and a spacer to make them fit right.

I didn't compromise or eliminate any of the engine mounting bolts. If that had been necessary, I would not have put the guards on. Just my opinion....
 
If it isn't a three-point mount, it is pretty much worthless except if the bike is tipped over when parked.
Any bolts that you need for installation should be at least grade 10.9
I use grade 12.9 myself.

Eric
 
850GT_Rider said:
I didn't compromise or eliminate any of the engine mounting bolts. If that had been necessary, I would not have put the guards on. Just my opinion....
Click to expand...

Oh no I didn't mean remove them permanently, I just meant while I was installing them -- read someone talking about jacking it up, and I'm wondering if that's necessary.

850GT_Rider said:
When I put mine on my 850, a new long bolt came with them. But I also had to replace 1 bolt on the bottom and a spacer to make them fit right.
Click to expand...

A spacer like any old washer from a hardware store?

7981GS said:
If it isn't a three-point mount, it is pretty much worthless except if the bike is tipped over when parked.
Any bolts that you need for installation should be at least grade 10.9
I use grade 12.9 myself.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking too. I've had the rounder, 2-point ones on other bikes and one got bent out of shape by just being knocked over by a drunk friend while parked. Only thing I'm a little worried about is that the round ones made for a million different ways to position the highway pegs, while these have a more square shape. Then again, the million different ways to position the pegs also meant a million ways for one to be slightly asymmetrical from the other. Oh well -- luxury problems :D
 
These are the ones that I have on my 850, you can remove the case bolts to mount with no problem, they should also be re-torqued when you install, if not it causes stress on the frame and vibration. The spacer on my 850 is about 9/16 wide, yours may be different. with the two top bolts in place you will be able to figure out what you need there and you should be able to get something from a hardware.

Cheers




$%28KGrHqZ,%21pQE9eDpFHI%21BPmHn,6jGw%7E%7E60_12.JPG
 
bbjumper said:
These are the ones that I have on my 850, you can remove the case bolts to mount with no problem, they should also be re-torqued when you install, if not it causes stress on the frame and vibration. The spacer on my 850 is about 9/16 wide, yours may be different. with the two top bolts in place you will be able to figure out what you need there and you should be able to get something from a hardware.

Cheers




$%28KGrHqZ,%21pQE9eDpFHI%21BPmHn,6jGw%7E%7E60_12.JPG
Click to expand...

Perfect! But re-torqued... do I need a torque wrench?
 
Steve said:
Unless you have a calibrated arm, ... YES. :o

You should have a couple of them around, anyway.
At a minimum, you should have a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive.

.
Click to expand...

Missed that upgrade on my arm ;) So... how much am I looking at spending here?
 
beardedmonkey said:
Finally won an auction on ebay for case guards on my 1978 GS 750. Question: anything special I should know about installing them? They're 3-point, and they came off another bike so I'm assuming the long bolt that comes with them is long enough (I've read that it's sometimes not), but I've also read people having concerns about leaving the engine mounted only to the rear bolts. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Sweet! I'm glad you got those, I saw them and was going to send you the link!
 
crapwacker said:
Sweet! I'm glad you got those, I saw them and was going to send you the link!
Click to expand...

I love winning on ebay... and I can't stand those knuckleheads who start boosting the price days before the auction is over! Felt good to sit there without placing a bid until the time dropped to 30 seconds, then swoop in there out of nowhere!
 
beardedmonkey said:
Missed that upgrade on my arm ;) So... how much am I looking at spending here?
Click to expand...

I bought mine at Harbor Freight when they've been on sale, pretty cheap that way. I'm sure they're not as accurate as Snap-on's, but better than nothing.
 
cj7jeep81 said:
I bought mine at Harbor Freight when they've been on sale, pretty cheap that way. I'm sure they're not as accurate as Snap-on's, but better than nothing.
Click to expand...

True... I'm still interested in that calibrated arm upgrade though...
 
Just sharing

Just sharing

Thought I would share my "mod" for these case guards. It is on my '82 GS 1100L. I'm 5'10"... and I love it.

First, I bought some different pegs. The small footpads that come with the guards are too small for me. Not sure where I got them, but I'm sure they will be easy to find.

Secondly, the way I mounted the pegs they would point at a 45 degree angle away from me. I moved them where I wanted them and cranked down, but they would always vibrate their way down.

So, I tapped the pegs and put a bolt in for adjusting them (with a jam nut). Now, I have pegs that are where I want them, plus I can fold them up when I'm parking the bike next to the wall. I'm 100% satisfied with them.

Here are a few pics:
IMG_20120614_120531.jpg


IMG_20120614_120548.jpg
 
I see from the pics you already mounted them.. I was gonna add that a litle longer lower engine bolt would be needed but be VERY VERY carefull it isnt too long. As you tighten the bolt it will puncture the engine case if its too long.Take some good looks at what your gonna use well before the wrenches go to work!!!
 
chuck hahn said:
I see from the pics you already mounted them.. I was gonna add that a litle longer lower engine bolt would be needed but be VERY VERY carefull it isnt too long. As you tighten the bolt it will puncture the engine case if its too long.Take some good looks at what your gonna use well before the wrenches go to work!!!
Click to expand...

This is what I had read about and was making me nervous. I'm having a hard time trying to picture this but maybe it'll make more sense when I get them...
 
AND also be aware that the bolts are different lengths for each side...use th right one in the right side. Best to just place the bolt back in the teardrop and label the teardrop L or R with a marker. The reason youll need longer bolts is the thickness of the case guard steel takes up almost 3/16 inch of available threads.
 
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