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Advice Please

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Hi guys

I need some troubleshooting advice please.

I am experiencing a stutter especially when setting off. It almost feels like when your bike lets you know it is time to switch to reserve:). This disappears after a while (almost as if it is better when the engine has warmed up properly and after the throttle has been properly tested;). When the bike has stood for an hour or two it is back, but in a lesser degree.

It also seems as if the bike battles to maintain at a constant throttle, when cold it is terrible and at running temp it give a little nudge every now and then. It almost feels like you have to constantly accelerate to maintain smooth engine performance.

Can anyone point me in a direction where I can start looking for the problem?
 
Exponent said:
Hi guys

I need some troubleshooting advice please.

I am experiencing a stutter especially when setting off. It almost feels like when your bike lets you know it is time to switch to reserve:). This disappears after a while (almost as if it is better when the engine has warmed up properly and after the throttle has been properly tested;). When the bike has stood for an hour or two it is back, but in a lesser degree.

It also seems as if the bike battles to maintain at a constant throttle, when cold it is terrible and at running temp it give a little nudge every now and then. It almost feels like you have to constantly accelerate to maintain smooth engine performance.

Can anyone point me in a direction where I can start looking for the problem?
Click to expand...

What is the maintenance history on the bike.
 
I think it would have to be carbs and/or boots.

The experts will chime in soon with recommended fixes.
 
mrbill5491 said:
What is the maintenance history on the bike.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr Bill

I bought the bike about two months ago from a guy who had already left for a job overseas, so the info on my bike is sketchy at best. Apparently is was standing a while, but runs great otherwise except for the stutter.

I have done an oil and filter change about 400 km ago.
 
Rob S. said:
I think it would have to be carbs and/or boots.

The experts will chime in soon with recommended fixes.
Click to expand...

Hi Rob

My git tells me carbs, but my mechanical experience is zero

Here is a pic of the carbs from the air filter cavity - can you pick up anything?
Carb LH 4 Close up.jpg
 
Other than being a little wet and oily looking, not much to see there.

It's really the inanrds needing addressed, as it sounds like you have a small block in the idle/low throttle opening circuit. This is supported by the fact that it gets a bit better at more open throttle settings.

A full strip and dip, with a valve adjustment will probably be the resounding advice.
 
BigD_83 said:
Other than being a little wet and oily looking, not much to see there.

It's really the inanrds needing addressed, as it sounds like you have a small block in the idle/low throttle opening circuit. This is supported by the fact that it gets a bit better at more open throttle settings.

A full strip and dip, with a valve adjustment will probably be the resounding advice.
Click to expand...

Thanks Big D, I was dreading and looking forward to that advice.

Guess I better start getting the carb kit together and source some shims
 
No need to buy any KITS. get the intake manifold orings and one CV oring kit from Robert Barr at cycleorings.com. 1 kit does all the carbs and fuel tees.

Intake manifold orings are on page 3 of his website. Measure the id of the old ones and get the appropriate size

DO NOT EVER grip the float seats with pliers to get them out OR apply heat to loosen the orings seal. There is a screen inside the seats and heat will melt the plastic that holds them in place. Squeezing the seats will make the holes out of round and the needles will jam up and not work. Use a fine knife to gently get the seats pried out. Be patient and work them out by prying between the brass shoulders and the carb body itself.

Lastly..go here and get familiar with the CV rebuild tutorial. Get new rubber plugs for on the pilot jet holes and new bowl gaskets too. A can of Berrymans from Walmart, a can or two of carbs spray and get to rebuilding the carbs. Check the valve adjustments and use a new cover gasket. Do these things and youll be amazed at the life the bike has left in it.

Carb rebuild is on the right side and look for a manual from the list

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Last edited:
Walmart's in SA?

Flyboy can let you know what type of chemicals you can get in SA

Is it me, or does the carb boot in his pic look like it's melted?
 
Yamaha carb dip....whatever.........pot of boiling water and Tasmanian Devil pizzzzz...just get them cleaned out.
 
Exponent said:
Hi Rob

My git tells me carbs, but my mechanical experience is zero

Here is a pic of the carbs from the air filter cavity - can you pick up anything?
View attachment 36600
Click to expand...

Before getting involved in a full carb strip it's always worth trying the ' lite' option. If it is dirt it may not be fixed - yet and draining the bowls a few times, running fuel through on prime and a few taps with a rubber mallet or hardwood stick will dislodge dirt.
 
But if theres "dirt" getting to the carbs you need to go upstream to the tank and fuel lines. Tank may need cleaned, derusted, and a tank liner to prevent future heart ache. Fuel lines do degrade and the rubber sluffs off and make things get gunked up.

I would suggest that the ENTIRE system be gone over AND the carbs dipped and new orings. That way all possibilities have been addressed and dealt with.

"lite options" are like putting band aids on shotgun wounds...
 
chuck hahn said:
"lite options" are like putting band aids on shotgun wounds...
Click to expand...

That is like the one thing I keep tossing at some of the new guys:

"Every shortcut you take is just one more opportunity to do it over."
righton.gif.pagespeed.ce.-r7mnTcTEv.gif


.
 
Big T said:
Walmart's in SA?

Flyboy can let you know what type of chemicals you can get in SA

Is it me, or does the carb boot in his pic look like it's melted?
Click to expand...

I see what you are seeing, Big T. It does look more than a little degraded.
 
I just did my 1981 850G carbs ...the fifth set of carbs i have done and my best so far. So a couple lessons for you -

All you need is the Orings from Cycle Orings, Mr Barr. Order the oring set, and separately on his site order the insulator orings which are resting against the cylinder heads, order the intake socket heads so you can replace the crap JIC phillips heads (also on his site) and order the new float bowl drain screw orings (also has to be added separately on his site).

If you are very careful, you can take easily reuse the float bowl gaskets. I have done 5 carb sets and never torn one. Just loosen the bowl carefully and if its sticking somewhere, insert a tiny screw driver head and peel it away.

Also, the needles/jets are sometimes a bit stuck...so get the closest fit small screwdriver possible, spray a good penetrating oil in, and carefully insert a screw driver and apply slight, steady, left hand twist on it while tapping away for a minute or two on the head with a small hammer...it will pop loose. Whatever you do, dont force it and break the top of the flimsey head slot.

Set float heights...carefully. Dont break posts tapping out the float mounting pin.

Soak the carb bodies. If you didnt mess with the synch screws or remove the butterflys then you wont need to resynch either when you put it back together.

Shoot some white lithiumm into the throttle and choke cables while you have the carb body out. Also, oil your air filter and check the seal of the air system.

Have fun.
 
Me, I would put new bowl gaskets on, they are cheap and now you know you have good bowl gaskets on just in case you ever have to pull them again.
 
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