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After oil change...kinda rough

  • Thread starter Thread starter risccas
  • Start date Start date
R

risccas

Guest
I just changed the oil(and filter) on my new 1983 GS1100gl for the first time last night. I took it for a short ride last night and it seemed to be accelerating rather roughly now. I put about 3.6 qts in it and the oil level shows to be about 3/4's up between the "L" line and the "F" line. Should I add more untill it reaches the "F" line. I used regular 10W-40 like my manual stated.

What could cause this?
 
After you changed the oil, did you take it for a short ride and check the level again?The filter has to fill with oil.
Other than that,I do not think your problem is related to your oil change, did you do anything else to the bike ?
 
I checked the spark plugs and they were black as sin. I changed them out and now she runs like a top. Not really sure why all that happened.

Thanks though!
 
Oil

Oil

TIme to up grade your oil, dump the plain jane 10-40 and move up to a synthetic grade, your bike will be better off.
 
Re: Oil

Re: Oil

mrbill54 said:
TIme to up grade your oil, dump the plain jane 10-40 and move up to a synthetic grade, your bike will be better off.
Click to expand...

These engines don't need synthetic oil. It certainly won't make it run any smoother. True, you don't need to change it as often as it degrades slower, but you still have the same filter change interval and synthetic costs twice as much. I use castrol 10-40 and change it along with the filter religiously every 2000 miles.
 
I was going to buy the synthetic, but then all the guys at my Suzuki dealership talked me out of it for these two reasons:

#1 - It cost more than double the regular.

#2 - The said it eats away at your clutch fibers or something like that.

Who knows? Not me....
 
syn oils

syn oils

Of course it costs more, its better oil period and worth every penny. I've used the stuff in my bike for some 20 years, didnt do a thing to the clutch, I did install heavier clutch springs ( OEM clutch springs let the clutch slip under load and that was with standard oil) and no problems. I had to drop the oil pan ( pan has never been off in 24 years) to fix the oil drain and there was not one bit of oil sluge in the pan, pan was clean as a whistle.

As for running smoother thats debatable, I noticed my engine reved eaiser, got some better mileage and the engine seems to run a tad cooler. i do know syn flow rates are better and syn oils dont have the shearing problems as do standard oils when they lube the tranny and the thermo dyanmics are much better for air cooled engines. Which is a plus when you live in hottter areas like I do in NM. HEAT KILLS.

Read the article in GSResoures " All you ever wanted to know about oils"
 
Re: syn oils

Re: syn oils

mrbill54 said:
I noticed my engine reved eaiser, got some better mileage and the engine seems to run a tad cooler.
Click to expand...



Hmmm, placebo oil..... They sell that here too. Oil choice will always be a subjective issue. Use whatever makes you happy, but don't tell us 'plain jane oil' oil is crap and synthetic is the only way to go. If that were the case nobody would be using mineral oil anymore.
 
Hey, an oil discussion, never had one of those here! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
"#2 - The said it eats away at your clutch fibers or something like that."

These guys are mechanics? That is nonsense. Whether it is worth it to use synth is debatable for sure, but it will not eat up your clutch plates.
 
From DINOsaurs! :-) Well actually mostly ancient plant matter but you get the drift.
 
"Hmmm, placebo oil" sheeesh. Anyways, plain jane oil wasnt made with motorcycles in mind, speciallly when the oil is shared for the engine and tranny, the dino oils' molecules are sheared apart by the gears in the tranny, hence COULD cause oil failure and a cooked engine. Why risk it??? Syn doesnt have the shear problems. We spend alot time keeping our bikes going and clean why skimp on the oil?? And yes i still change the syn oil and filter every 3,000- 4,000 miles its cheap insurance

Like I mentioned before just read the GSRources article on oil and make your choice on what to use. Okay on to a new and better topic, how about those stators and RRs 8O :-& noooooooooooooo i cant take it lol.
 
mrbill54 said:
the dino oils' molecules are sheared apart by the gears in the tranny,
Click to expand...


Ha ha!! We better be careful it doesn't shear the atoms as well. We might end up with fission powered bikes.
 
Looks like my input is needed again... :twisted:

Synthetic oil was made for the specific application of gas turbine engines. GE developed them in the mid '50's during the so called "atomic age". Everybody was filling thier houses with -gasp- electric toasters!! And televisions!! And -holy hand grenades- electric washing machines!! No more ice boxes- an electric ice box now!!! All this resulted in a need for cheap, quick, easy to impliment power. These turbine engines ran at rpms never seen before, and resulted in extremely high temps, like 900 to 1200 degrees. Thus, a need for an oil that could withstand these temps.

Think your GS engine would ever see 900 degrees? The basic internal combustion engine has not changed much in the past 120 years, synthetic oil has been around less than half that time. Car, truck and plane engines did just fine before syn oil...

Synthetic oil is resistant to higher temps, and definitely has a much better shear resistance. No doubt about it. The reality is that even modern internal combustion engines don't really challenge the properties of even dyno oil. Or they shouldn't, if they are running well.

I'm not pro syn or dyno, just came across this info a long time ago, and it's good reading...
 
Guy said:
mrbill54 said:
the dino oils' molecules are sheared apart by the gears in the tranny,
Click to expand...


Ha ha!! We better be careful it doesn't shear the atoms as well. We might end up with fission powered bikes.
Click to expand...

Come on Guy, get with the program, that's why we have oil filter's........................I for one do not want bit's of atom's flying around inside my motor.............. :lol:



OK! I'm being silly again,yes, yes I am........ \:D/
 
gspaul said:
Hey, an oil discussion, never had one of those here! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


Crank it up Paul! I am in the wings waiting :wink: :lol: :P



--------------------------------


Other than what Jethro said which is gospel... I also know that if you do run syn oil you need to make sure you engine is completely broken in before doing so. In these older bikes that is most likely not going to be an issue but I have seen guys put it in brand new bikes. This is a no no as it prevents things from seating properly and will actually result in early failure of engine parts.

Use it at your own risk. I myself prefer dino oil. It has never left me down and is what my engine was designed to run. I have also used syn oil and not noticed any difference what so ever so weigh your options man.
 
Motorcycle specific dino oil, here.

Currently, I'm digging Castrol Actevo. I have almost 2,000 miles on a crankcase of this, and it's holding up like a champ. Time for another gallon, and it's only $17.95 -- $10 cheaper than my previous favorite, Golden Spectro Semi-Synthetic.

Use whatever oil makes you feel groovy -- all of it is far better than anything available in 1983 or whenever your bike was built. Even the cheapest Wal*Mart sludge.

There's no better way to inflame the masses than to shout "oil!" in any vehicle forum...
 
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