• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Aftermarket Cams?

I was wondering - doesn't the lift on those cams exceed the recommended amount of lift for shim over bucket ?
 
doctorgonzo said:
Jesus Christ Ed, somebody tore the hell out of that bike.
Click to expand...

True that!:mad:

Basically the entire upper end is junk other than the valve cover and cams.

Regarding the cam being too much for the shims, not sure. The lobes clear the valve guides so other than a little clearancing around the valve bucket the cam will fit. If anyone wants these cams shoot me an offer via PM. They are not going to do me any good at this point.

To repair the engine I'm thinking about buying a 1000G engine for parts. Does anyone know if the G engine parts are interchangeable with the 1000S upper end?

Ed
 
Nessism said:
True that!:mad:

To repair the engine I'm thinking about buying a 1000G engine for parts. Does anyone know if the G engine parts are interchangeable with the 1000S upper end?

Ed
Click to expand...

The G bits will fit straight on, though don't forget that the G heads only came designed for the CV carbs. All the G models came with the extra front cam tunnel bolt as well - not critical if your head doesn't match (some S models had it, some didn't).
 
My input on cams wasn't too helpful but if you are interested I do have the original stock ART pistons, cams which I removed @ 7000 miles. They have been stored inside every since.
 
I have an extra set of stock Cams for an 81 1000G myself. The head I bought for my swap came with the Cams plus I have the Cams from my old head. I need to measure them and check spec. I'll do that tonight.

Speaking of torn up motors, I dodged a bullet. The junkyard head I bought to replace mine had a hose clamp that had probably fallen down a spark plug hole. It was lodged between the valve and the seat stopping the valve from closing, but that's as far as it fell. I found it when I tore the head down. It didn't get past the valve and into the bottom of the engine. I'm guessing that was the cause of the bike winding up in the yard.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the parts offers. You guys are the silver lining in this thunderstorm of engine carnage.:clap: Have to spend a little more time on ebay looking at engines/cylinders/heads then I?ll be in touch with some of you to help fill in the voids so to speak.

Merry Christmas.:)

Ed
 
Yeah buy a 1000G, I could do with a parts stash :lol:

Bottom end is different obviously but you knew that :)

I think a friend of Rapid Rays had a G engine up for sale, not sure if it's still available. This is a quote from him.

"Gary at "The Frame Shop" in Stanton, CA 714 893 6700 had a good GS1000G motor for sale."

There's also an engine I've seen come up on CL in Orange County a couple of times for a couple hundred bucks.
 
salty_monk said:
Yeah buy a 1000G, I could do with a parts stash :lol:

Bottom end is different obviously but you knew that :)

I think a friend of Rapid Rays had a G engine up for sale, not sure if it's still available. This is a quote from him.

"Gary at "The Frame Shop" in Stanton, CA 714 893 6700 had a good GS1000G motor for sale."

There's also an engine I've seen come up on CL in Orange County a couple of times for a couple hundred bucks.
Click to expand...

Hey Dan,

That engine must be the same one as on CL - from Stanton. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/964199373.html Guy has been listing it over and over again for more than a year I think - he wants $400 in his ad. Not sure it's worth that much unless it can be certified as low mileage. Going to give him a call.

Edit: guy said he will come down to $350 but not lower. Seems a little high to me but what do you guys think? He claims the mileage is in the teens but there is no way to varify.
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
Hey Dan,

That engine must be the same one as on CL - from Stanton. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/964199373.html Guy has been listing it over and over again for more than a year I think - he wants $400 in his ad. Not sure it's worth that much unless it can be certified as low mileage. Going to give him a call.

Edit: guy said he will come down to $350 but not lower. Seems a little high to me but what do you guys think? He claims the mileage is in the teens but there is no way to varify.
Click to expand...

I bought an entire bike less bodywork for $300, with a title

He can't be serious, listing it for a year?
 
Pistons look like Wiseco. Is the a little W in an oval on the pin boss?
If it is an 83 with scored walls, you may be able to clean it up to a Wiseco 73.5mm

Years ago, there were American made billet blanks for the 1000. Is there a CWC or CMC cast in the cams any place?

As far as the broken guide, retainer, valve springs, that is not a problem. We have parts for replacement.

Jay
 
Big Jay said:
Pistons look like Wiseco. Is the a little W in an oval on the pin boss?
If it is an 83 with scored walls, you may be able to clean it up to a Wiseco 73.5mm

Years ago, there were American made billet blanks for the 1000. Is there a CWC or CMC cast in the cams any place?

As far as the broken guide, retainer, valve springs, that is not a problem. We have parts for replacement.

Jay
Click to expand...


Thanks Jay.:D

Pistons are soaking in carb dip right now but I think they do have an itty bitty W within a circle on the pin boss.:cool:

Speaking of pistons, They don't look too bad other than that one that has the smashed edge shown in the photo. Tried one of the good pin buttons in that hole and it seems ok. Do you guys think it's crazy to consider using those pistons again?

Regarding the head, my concern is that the valve spring bucket bore is chewed on a couple of the holes. The rough edges could be smoothed out but not sure this is a sano thing to do.

Split the cased tonight and thankfully, everything looks ok as near as I can tell. The crank has some funny looking hammer marks on some of the pork chop weights but other than that I don't see anything unpleasant. It's about time something went the way it should.:pray:
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
One other question to you hot rod guys: are these cams worth anything? This bike needs a lot of work and money so if I can sell the cams to free up some money that could go toward more important parts I just may do it.
Click to expand...
They will be easier to sell if you ID them. Look on the very end of the cam for a number. I have charts for web-cam, andrews cams and cam-motion cams on hand. Measuring lobe height is not the way to determine lift as some of the larger cams were ground with a smaller "base circle" to keep them from hitting the valve cover. The cams you have look to be over .400" lift to me. Anything over .400" lift requires the use of "shim under buckets" and titanium valve spring retainers....Not aluminum.....Billy
 
To measure lift I supported the cam in V-blocks and put it on a surface plate. My dial indicator doesn't have enough travel so I used a surface gauge with a pointer to find the height of the base circle and at the top of the cam lobe. Measured the height from the pointer to the surface plate using calipers - yea I know, not the best method. At any rate, the cams measure right at .400 give or take a few thousands. The engine never spit out a shim so I assume underbucket shims are not manditory for this cam. Agree with your comments about aluminum valve spring retainers. The question I have is which broke first, valve spring or retainer?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top