Airbox and choke

[avbove38]

First question

for lack of sounding dumb..im new to suzukis

i have a 83 850gl

I replaced the stock airbox with pods

do I need to clamp off the hose connection that went to the top of the original airbox.

Also, the lever on the left handlebar, marked s and r. Im assuming this is the choke and to the right is close left is open??

 

[tkent02]

You must leave that hose open, it vents the crankcase. Get a longer hose, put a small filter or better a catch can on it.

Did you get the rejetting to work OK yet?

 

[avbove38]

You must leave that hose open, it vents the crankcase. Get a longer hose, put a small filter or better a catch can on it.

Did you get the rejetting to work OK yet?

Not sure what you are referring too, wasnt getting any rejetting done.

When you say put a catch on it, or a small filter, what do you suggest.

thanks

 

[tom203]

Not sure what you are referring too, wasnt getting any rejetting done.

OK, so you're ditching the stock airbox, and you figure that the increased airflow won't effect the carbs? Lots of posts on here about this- do you like searching? Anyways, don't lose that stock airbox stuff, it might come in handy!

 

[Steve]

Also, the lever on the left handlebar, marked s and r. Im assuming this is the choke and to the right is close left is open??

There is no "open" or "closed" because it is NOT a "choke", it is an enrichment system.

The S and R stand for Start and Run.

Then jetting that tkent was referring to is not an option, if you plan on using your bike. Changing the amount of air that the engine can breathe also requires a change in the fuel that is added to it. Without rejetting, your engine will run very lean and self-destruct.

.

 

[avbove38]

There is no "open" or "closed" because it is NOT a "choke", it is an enrichment system.

The S and R stand for Start and Run.

Then jetting that tkent was referring to is not an option, if you plan on using your bike. Changing the amount of air that the engine can breathe also requires a change in the fuel that is added to it. Without rejetting, your engine will run very lean and self-destruct.

.

Wasnt aware the jetting was necessary.

So this enrichment system does it need to be on S to start and once its running on Run? Isnt this just like a choke though? Sounds the same to me.

thanks

 

[Pendulum]

Wasnt aware the jetting was necessary.

So this enrichment system does it need to be on S to start and once its running on Run? Isnt this just like a choke though? Sounds the same to me.

thanks

Yes, put it on S to start and R to run. A choke restricts air into the engine. An enrichment circuit, like these old GS have, supplies more fuel. There's more than one way to skin a cat

What carbs do you have?

 

[avbove38]

Yes, put it on S to start and R to run. A choke restricts air into the engine. An enrichment circuit, like these old GS have, supplies more fuel. There's more than one way to skin a cat

What carbs do you have?

The carbs appear to be original for the bike. Mikuni. they look like all of the photos I have seen on sites especially Basscliffs.

Is this enrichment cable sitting next to the throttle cable that sits above the carbs? Im trying to trace the cable but the tank is in the way and im not wanting to have to take it off again.

there seems to be some slack in it and im not sure if its properly set up. When I turn the cable position to S it goes all the way to the left, like almost in a half circle and the same for the right. Is this correct?

Im trying to start this bike up for the first time. I just did all the maintenance, fluids, spark plugs/caps etc. Just trying to learn more before I try to start it and get stuck. It wants to start but not sure if its getting spark just yet im about to check. gas is flowing though.

any other ideas are very helpful and most appreciated.

 

[tom203]

You need to pull tank off and see what happens when you activate "choke" lever- if this bike is new to you, you have no choice but to get intimate with it ASAP- who knows what has or has not (more likely) been done to it. The lever might be doing nothing, making starting unlikely. You might have stock Mikunis, BUT you dumped the airbox without telling the carbs and they won't be happy. It might start if the "choke system" is working but it won't run well and it will drive you nuts until you correct the jetting. It would be a lot easier to get it running right with stock airbox, and then make the jump to podland.

 

[Larry D]

First of all, slow down....this is a +-30 year old bike. You absolutely MUST get much more familiar with your bike before you do much more. Otherwise you're going to cause yourself all kinds of agony trying to get it right.

Take a few days, learn use how to use the search function and teach yourself the things your interested in. There are years and years of info hidden behind the search feature. Luckily, this site was created to teach folks how to get these wonderful bikes back on the road safely and running right.

Of course, if you need help there are people here to answer your questions. However, you need a basis of knowledge first. It is imperative that the bike be re-jetted if your doing away with the airbox....and be ready to put on and take off, not only the tank, but alot of other pieces and parts as well. Get some decent metric wrenches and sockets.

It must be springtime......

 

[avbove38]

First of all, slow down....this is a +-30 year old bike. You absolutely MUST get much more familiar with your bike before you do much more. Otherwise you're going to cause yourself all kinds of agony trying to get it right.

Take a few days, learn use how to use the search function and teach yourself the things your interested in. There are years and years of info hidden behind the search feature. Luckily, this site was created to teach folks how to get these wonderful bikes back on the road safely and running right.

Of course, if you need help there are people here to answer your questions. However, you need a basis of knowledge first. It is imperative that the bike be re-jetted if your doing away with the airbox....and be ready to put on and take off, not only the tank, but alot of other pieces and parts as well. Get some decent metric wrenches and sockets.

It must be springtime......

I have more than enough tools. I am a 2 stroke mechanic with
Some basic 4 stroke and minor experience working on motorcycles.
I already have taken the tank off cleaned it painted it as well as removed
Carbs and cleaned them. I rewired the mess that the previous owner attempted
To fix. My knowledge and skills are there im just not 100%
Experienced in these suzukis and their setups. I had an rd 350 and rebuilt
The bike myself. One thing ive learned working on 2 strokes, everythings
Relative just different layouts and thats where im at.

My goal right now is to see if this bike will start then take it from
There i didnt want to take it apart rebuild it then try to guess
Whether it ran previous. Once i get it running im going to go thru
The bike then do whatever i need to get it 100%.

I know for sure to take time with it. Im older than the bike and
Even i need a slow start to get moving

 

[Guest]

If you're trying to start the bike with pods and without re jetting forget about it. Even if it did start it's gonna run like $hit.
I'd recommend you put the the factory airbox and related parts back together and on the bike.
What can it hurt? Odds are if you indeed did properly clean the carbs and you have everything else in order it'll fire right up.

 

[Pendulum]

The majority of the guys on here are convinced that pods make a bike impossible to tune or get running properly. I, on the other hand, found that rejetting for pods was far easier than rebuilding to stock specs. With the pods, it takes about 5 minutes to pull my carbs off. After replacing my mains, I only had to remove the carbs 1 more time to adjust my needles. Runs smooth now. Just gotta adjust my valves

If you kept the stock exhaust, I'd say 1-2 steps up on mains for the pods sounds right. I went 5 steps on my GS550 for pods + straight pipes. I'm going to go back down 1 size on the mains.

If you haven't completely rebuilt the carbs according the guides on Basscliffs site, I'd do that while you've got them off and opened up.

If you're trying to start the bike with pods and without re jetting forget about it. Even if it did start it's gonna run like $hit.
I'd recommend you put the the factory airbox and related parts back together and on the bike.
What can it hurt? Odds are if you indeed did properly clean the carbs and you have everything else in order it'll fire right up.

It should start and idle just fine with pods and stock jetting. Every bit of info I've seen on the internet for pods on the GS, says to leave the pilot jets alone. Pilots are what control idle, right? Matter of fact, my bike runs pretty good (needs valve adjustment and carbs sync'd) and I have stock pilots with pods and straight pipes.

 

[Guest]

The majority of the guys on here are convinced that pods make a bike impossible to tune or get running properly

I'm not necessarily one of those guys. I hate stock airboxes. But I do think it's easier to tune a bike from an already tuned condition.
If possible get the bike running properly then look into doing the mods.

I think jetting is an art form and find it quite enjoyable.

 

[Guest]

It should start and idle just fine with pods and stock jetting. .

My 82 wouldnt even backfire.

 

[Pendulum]

I'm not necessarily one of those guys. I hate stock airboxes. But I do think it's easier to tune a bike from an already tuned condition.
If possible get the bike running properly then look into doing the mods.

I think jetting is an art form and find it quite enjoyable.

I totally agree, on all points.

My 82 wouldnt even backfire.

That's strange. My '79 GS550 uses slide carbs. Maybe the CV carbs are more finicky. I've got very limited experience with them.

 

[1948man]

You're right on the enrichener. All the way to the left is full choke (Actually enriched) and 180 degrees to full right is run. On my 1100GL, I can see the choke linkage working under the tank without removing the tank. Just stand on the right side and reach over and operate the choke while bending over and looking under the tank. You can see when the slack is out and the actual choking starts. I say choke since it's easier than enrichen. By the way, I have had PODS since I got the bike and recently got an airbox and am going to go that way. I find the PODS with a 4 into 1 pipe make me tend to operate below the optimal power band for the bike due to the loudness factor. The V and H exhaust snarls above 4500 rpms or so and you don't really get best torque until 6-8K. I'm hoping with the airbox, I will like riding at higher rpms a little more plus tuning is a little easier. Mileage might improve also.

 

[avbove38]

Ok guys,

Im unsure if the recommendation is to go stock jets with the pods or rejet? If i do rejet, whats the best recommendation for a kit.

Also, should the stock exhaust be next to replace and with what?

as I posted, right now Iwant to make sure the bike starts, even if it runs crappy, thats all I need to know right now. The previous owner replaced the stock points with an electronic one so Im not sure if anythings correct he did. He kept popping a fuse and he didnt know why. I followed the color electrical diagram and found he had all the connections wrong, with that fixed my next step is to see if it starts. Next step is to fine tune everything and get it running 100%.

But, as I asked, im a bit confused now whether to follow the re jet recommendation and what to do with the exhaust if anything.

 

[tkent02]

Damn, dude!

Get it running before you go changing everything that you don't understand. Make the changes once you know what you want.

Rocket science.

 

[avbove38]

Damn, dude!

Get it running before you go changing everything that you don't understand. Make the changes once you know what you want.

Rocket science.

Thats what I said from the start. It doesnt make sense to put money into the bike before I get it started.


Since we are on this topic. I am not getting any spark. I have new spark plug wires correct for the bike. I am getting power. It turns over. The previous owner removed the points and replaced it with a dynatek electonic ignition. I checked all the wiring connections as when I bought the bike the guy said he kept blowing a fuse. I found out the problem and corrected it. It is all wired to the color diagram I have.

question is, is there a way to tell if this ignition he installed is working. A test?. im thinking it could be the coils as they are original but I want to eliminate this ignition first before i move on to something else since someone else installed it and obviously had no clue how to wire the bike.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.