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All Turn signals come on when Actuated

  • Thread starter Thread starter essquared
  • Start date Start date
E

essquared

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Hey guys, new to the forum! I did a search on this but couldn't get a definite answer, although it's sounding like its my relay/flasher unit..

Rolling with a 78 GS550 and got a set of new lower profile signals, dual wire each. Positive I wired them up the same way the stock ones were, one wire to ground, and one to the wire. Made sure they were all secured before testing them. Not only do they not blink at all, but all 4 turn on with left or right actuation. Confirm it's a relay thing?

I'd like them to stay on as my DRLs, but also work as a signal should if possible. Cheers.
 
Are the new lights by chance LED? And does your bike have a single indicator on the instrument panel that lights for either side signal?

If so, you need to do some re-wiring. That single indicator light is not connected to a chassis ground. When you activate a turn signal, that single indicator light uses the signals on the other side as a ground wire. The other signals won't light up because the small indicator light will not pass enough current to light them. Since you have (probably) installed LED signal lights, the indicator light will easily pass enough current to light the LEDs, so the all come on.

The re-wiring that is necessary is to connect one wire from the indicator bulb to ground, then install two diodes back-to-back, and power the indicator light from the center of the two diodes. Diodes are electrical "check valves", so current will come through one diode and through the indicator bulb to ground. Since the other diode is in the reverse direction, current can not flow that way to light the lights on the other side.

This diagram is a basic picture of your old and new systems. The new one here also shows an LED as the indicator, but you can keep the standard incandescent bulb.

turnsignalmonitor.jpg


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Woah, thanks for the info Steve! The signals aren't LED, but dual filament, these are them: http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/bullet-marker-light-amber-dual-filament.html
And the bike original did have 2 indicators on the stock instrument panel - i've installed an aftermarket instrument panel at the same time as the signals, but the panel has just 1 indicator for both left/right like you said.

Is what you mentioned still necessary? Thanks a lot.
 
I think it is probably the fact that your turn signals are now linked together at that single light. A pair of diodes should do the trick.

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Actually, it's even more simple than that. As posplayr mentioned, you don't need (or want) a Zener diode. A simple 1N4001 will do the job.

.

The 1N4001 is physically larger so it may be a little easier to solder and put into the harness. As mentioned before the electrical characteristics of either will suffice.
 
Thanks so much guys, did what you mentioned and it all worked out as normal except that thy don't flash when actuated. Although this may be because I haven't toted with the bike running.

Also a side issue is that my Neutal light on the panel is always on, similar issue having to do with a diode? Thanks
 
It is probably due to the voltage of your battery being too low to actually flash, try it with the bike running if you haven't already.

The turn signal relays on these bikes can go bad over time, especially if they get turned upside down and water gets in them or they are really old on high mileage bikes, the contacts inside the relay can eventually stick or oxidize not allowing them to flash.

Depending on your model (put it and your location in your signature) you may even have the TSCU (Turn Signal Cancel Unit) that adds additional complexity to the circuit. On several of my bikes, I've made my own LED turn/indicator combo's that are always on, and use a simple electronic flasher relay along with a standard relay to turn off and "flash". This works well, with better visibility and uses less power than using standard 23W incandescents.

Your neutral light being on is likely unrelated to the turn signal issue unless you have bad grounds perhaps, and it sounds like it's time to completely go through the wiring on your bike - de oxidize/clean and coat all the connectors with dielectric grease and verify your grounds are clean, short and solid, as close to the battery as possible. Clean, flow solder into and coat your fuse box connections as well.
 
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