I like the windscreen idea. Allie's idea is just o.k.. :-\\\, the minium we expect for a GS'er. That's not the New Jersey I had envisioned in my mind. Then again I've only been to Newark. Thanks Allie.
cg
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Allie's home made camera mount
- Thread starter Allie
- Start date
I like the windscreen idea. Allie's idea is just o.k.. :-\\\, the minium we expect for a GS'er. That's not the New Jersey I had envisioned in my mind. Then again I've only been to Newark. Thanks Allie.
cg
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
As long as you stay out of places like Newark, Trenton, and Edison NJ is a beautiful state. Get around Monmouth and the countryside and you see why it's called the Garden State.
P
Planecrazy
Guest
Lived in North Brunswick as a kid ... Have an uncle that lived just outside Rumson in Fairhaven. New Jersey has an a$$-backward highway system (even locals have no trouble getting lost and missing exits, hehe), but it's such a beautiful state that getting lost there isn't nececelery a bad thing! 
Regards,
Regards,
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
The doglegs to make a left turn take a little getting used to. My wife's uncle scares the hell out of us with his driving when we go up for a visit. He has to be the worst driver I've ever seen.Lived in North Brunswick as a kid ... Have an uncle that lived just outside Rumson in Fairhaven. New Jersey has an a$$-backward highway system (even locals have no trouble getting lost and missing exits, hehe), but it's such a beautiful state that getting lost there isn't nececelery a bad thing!
Regards,
B
BassCliff
Guest
Hi Ms. Allie,
You video looks better than mine. I'm using a fancy-schmancy RAM camera mount and a really cheap (less than $100) Olympus T-100 camera. I need to find some way to dampen it to take out more vibration.
You can see the RAM mount here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTnCPwuIQLk
...and some video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy1SCYLeSoQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIqljE9JWGQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxEz09dqoXo
You do nice work. I'm looking forward to more video from you.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
You video looks better than mine. I'm using a fancy-schmancy RAM camera mount and a really cheap (less than $100) Olympus T-100 camera. I need to find some way to dampen it to take out more vibration.
You can see the RAM mount here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTnCPwuIQLk
...and some video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy1SCYLeSoQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIqljE9JWGQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxEz09dqoXo
You do nice work. I'm looking forward to more video from you.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
E
emjay
Guest
Excellent job. I love that kind of ingenuity.
You bake brownies and cookies, right? You do math just fine.
You bake brownies and cookies, right? You do math just fine.
Allie
Forum Sage
Hi Ms. Allie,
You video looks better than mine. I'm using a fancy-schmancy RAM camera mount and a really cheap (less than $100) Olympus T-100 camera. I need to find some way to dampen it to take out more vibration.
You can see the RAM mount here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTnCPwuIQLk
...and some video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy1SCYLeSoQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIqljE9JWGQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxEz09dqoXo
You do nice work. I'm looking forward to more video from you.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
:clap::clap::clap:Wow I LOVE your videos!:clap::clap::clap:Thanks for posting!:clap::clap::clap:
You have me wondering about the RAM mount. I thought it looked pretty solid on their page, and honestly it looks even more substantial on your bike. I know they use rubber in the mounts, and like my picture yours doesn't seem to show any actual vibration. Like mine, your picture does show a bit of jiggle, and I wonder where it comes from. It's hard to tell but I think I see frame rate skips in both pictures, and I wonder if that can exacerbate any flex in the mounting system. Realistically I suppose there will always be a little flex the longer the arm is. Possibly most of the jiggle comes from rubber though, and it may be a trade off in terms of vibration versus jiggle. Mystery mystery mystery.
That is some fantastic road you have there, unmatched around here in terms of 'curve density'. That's thirty minutes of ride video that did NOT get boring, and I think your captions helped keep it exciting. Not to mention the sound track - Boston, ARS woooo! I see I have some things to learn about editing, and can really have some fun dressing up ride footage. (Big grin left out because I just met Mr. Image Policeman lol) You will be seeing more of that from me.
Steve
GS Whisperer
I have a RAM mount for my GPS. Let me tell you ... even on a Wing, that GPS moves around A LOT.
There is just something about having all the rubber at the pivot, but even with a short arm and a bit of weight at the end of the arm, there is a LOT of movement.
If you had deleted the smiley from BassCliff's quote, you could have put in your own "big grin".
.
P
Planecrazy
Guest
Allie,
One way to potentially reduce the "jiggle" would be to duplicate your mount (grab the other training wheel stalk) and add a second arm coming off the other bar clamp. By creating an "A" frame you add mass and stability to the mounting system which ought to reduce the jiggle without adding any additional vibration. Also, try experimenting with harder and softer rubber compounds at each isolation point until you find the one(s) that dampens the vibration most effectively without allowing "jiggle" to increase.
You're off to a great start! Look forward to the final progression of the project ... Soon you'll be ready to shoot Hi-Def 3-D, hehe!
Regards,
One way to potentially reduce the "jiggle" would be to duplicate your mount (grab the other training wheel stalk) and add a second arm coming off the other bar clamp. By creating an "A" frame you add mass and stability to the mounting system which ought to reduce the jiggle without adding any additional vibration. Also, try experimenting with harder and softer rubber compounds at each isolation point until you find the one(s) that dampens the vibration most effectively without allowing "jiggle" to increase.
You're off to a great start! Look forward to the final progression of the project ... Soon you'll be ready to shoot Hi-Def 3-D, hehe!
Regards,
Allie
Forum Sage
Right now I'm eying the other training wheel to make a more rearward mount to get the gages in the picture. I just need to get ahold of someone with torches and the arms of a Thunder God (or at least the hammer ) to bend it. It may take some 'fancy bending' to make it as safe as possible - I definitely don't want my lower intestine challenging it to a duel in the event of an a collision .
) to bend it. It may take some 'fancy bending' to make it as safe as possible - I definitely don't want my lower intestine challenging it to a duel in the event of an a collision .
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Just saw this now, been thinking of ways to mount the gps, but this would work great for the camera. I got one of them cheap tripods and a cheap camera that shoots video. My daughter should be done with her training wheels soon... couple more weeks maybe Only problem is they are pink... Ill see what else I got around.
Only problem is they are pink... Ill see what else I got around.
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Right now I'm eying the other training wheel to make a more rearward mount to get the gages in the picture. I just need to get ahold of someone with torches and the arms of a Thunder God (or at least the hammer
That is a good point when it comes to mounting solid objects up on the bars. Could use a breakaway system like they do on street signs, basically create the weak point where it mounts to the bike, or at the least make it so it will bend over the direction you would be hitting it.
Allie
Forum Sage
Just saw this now, been thinking of ways to mount the gps, but this would work great for the camera. I got one of them cheap tripods and a cheap camera that shoots video. My daughter should be done with her training wheels soon... couple more weeks maybe
LoL what's the matter with pink? Trade ya!
E
emjay
Guest
S
shirazdrum
Guest
I tried anything and everything. I made more camera mounts and GPS mounts that i could care for but at the end i went with Ram ball mounts for both. The Ram mounts are absolutely solid easy to adjust to virtually any angle, and better yet, the balls are rubber and dampen the vibration really well. Of course i have a screen in front which helps with the wind noise and movement. It also helps keeping bugs out of my expensive camera lens. $40 for two mounts that will last my lifetime is a good investment in my book.
Allie
Forum Sage
Woo that's quite a cockpit you have there! I plan to get a Maeir fairing, tho the smoked screen may not be ideal. I like it's look and low profile (and cost) and I think it will do for now. It may help my camera some.
I'm still sold on the RAM mounts overall. Movement seems problematic for some setups, though on all counts it seems there's no vibration. Vibration seems like it would be the killer, both for the image and the equipment. I'd take a little movement over vibration any day. I wonder though on setups where movement is especially present, would perhaps some kind of tie down at the end of the arm help by providing a little tension? The thing I love most about the RAM is its modular nature and adjustability. On the rearward angled setup I have in mind to get the gages in the picture I also think it would be safer than anything I can cook up on my own.
I'm still sold on the RAM mounts overall. Movement seems problematic for some setups, though on all counts it seems there's no vibration. Vibration seems like it would be the killer, both for the image and the equipment. I'd take a little movement over vibration any day. I wonder though on setups where movement is especially present, would perhaps some kind of tie down at the end of the arm help by providing a little tension? The thing I love most about the RAM is its modular nature and adjustability. On the rearward angled setup I have in mind to get the gages in the picture I also think it would be safer than anything I can cook up on my own.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Don't worry too much about the tinted windshield. At least, not as long as it's not the dark limo tint.
I have a tinted shield on my Wing that is VERY tall, I have no choice but to look through it at all times.
I do a fair bit of night riding, too, there is no problem with the lighter tint.
.
Allie,
I just saw this link Great work, and the video turned out as good if not better than most video's I have seen.
There are a couple of explanations for why this setup seems to work so well. The obvious issue is vibration from the motorcycle or the road. Ideally the camera lens would float above the bike and not be exposed to vibration coming up through the mount.
The classic solution is almost identical to the solution for handlebar buzz which is to increase the weight of the thing you don't want to vibrate. I'm pretty sure if I remember correctly the amount of deflection goes down to the square root of weight. So the obvious benefit you have is that camera is rather large. I see it is 7 Oz. I have a small Canon SD630 which is 5 oz so it is still rather light so you might benefit from adding some additional weight to the bottom of the mount.
In reality the actual magnitiude of vibration is related to the ratio of weight to spring stiffness. In this case the stiffness is related to the rubber damper. But putting the weight out at the end of a leaver arm decreases the effective stiffness and allows camera to have more freedom from the bike motion. This provides better isolation. It as if you had handlebars that were twice as long, there would be less vibration transmitted to your hands because the bikes vibration is trying to push your hand with a more flexible structure you feel it less at your hands.
With the addition of the placement of the big piece of rubber at the handlebar mount and the camera and ballast weight are then operating through a much larger moment arm and than if the compliance is right at the camera. So in theory the longer that arm the better.
I had thought about making the arm flex as well but that since there is no way to dampen the flexing bar, there is no reason to find something more flexible than that training wheel mount arm.
I took these few concepts and did a quick power point drawing if anyone is interested. I might do something like this as you have shown I don't need a expensive GoPro and mounting system to get good video.
The concept is to move out as far on the handle bar as you can go. This has one level of isolation from the motorcycle vibration. Then extend the mount back toward the center using the stiff rubber mount off at the spare clutch perch. The wights are optional but should serve to improve vibration as per the previously mentioned formula.
Jim
I just saw this link Great work, and the video turned out as good if not better than most video's I have seen.
There are a couple of explanations for why this setup seems to work so well. The obvious issue is vibration from the motorcycle or the road. Ideally the camera lens would float above the bike and not be exposed to vibration coming up through the mount.
The classic solution is almost identical to the solution for handlebar buzz which is to increase the weight of the thing you don't want to vibrate. I'm pretty sure if I remember correctly the amount of deflection goes down to the square root of weight. So the obvious benefit you have is that camera is rather large. I see it is 7 Oz. I have a small Canon SD630 which is 5 oz so it is still rather light so you might benefit from adding some additional weight to the bottom of the mount.
In reality the actual magnitiude of vibration is related to the ratio of weight to spring stiffness. In this case the stiffness is related to the rubber damper. But putting the weight out at the end of a leaver arm decreases the effective stiffness and allows camera to have more freedom from the bike motion. This provides better isolation. It as if you had handlebars that were twice as long, there would be less vibration transmitted to your hands because the bikes vibration is trying to push your hand with a more flexible structure you feel it less at your hands.
With the addition of the placement of the big piece of rubber at the handlebar mount and the camera and ballast weight are then operating through a much larger moment arm and than if the compliance is right at the camera. So in theory the longer that arm the better.
I had thought about making the arm flex as well but that since there is no way to dampen the flexing bar, there is no reason to find something more flexible than that training wheel mount arm.
I took these few concepts and did a quick power point drawing if anyone is interested. I might do something like this as you have shown I don't need a expensive GoPro and mounting system to get good video.
The concept is to move out as far on the handle bar as you can go. This has one level of isolation from the motorcycle vibration. Then extend the mount back toward the center using the stiff rubber mount off at the spare clutch perch. The wights are optional but should serve to improve vibration as per the previously mentioned formula.
Jim
P
Planecrazy
Guest
Well thought out, Jim!
Greg (Nerobro) and I created a "last minute" camera mount for my Vetter fairing (that hung off the right side using the "lowers" mounting screws) the night before we did a track lap at the Indy Moto GP two years ago. Despite rubber dampening in various places it suffered from vibration at higher RPM's, and I now realize from your excellent description that the combination of a short bracket, along with low mass on the camera end contributed to the vibration problems (along with the camera having mistakenly been set to low res instead of high res - I'm still kickin myself for that one!). We also made a mount for his bike, which yielded similar results for the same reasons, although in his case the camera was set to record video "properly" ... it was just a lower resolution camera than mine.
If I ever use the mount again I'll remember to add weight to the bottom in order to improve the results.
Regards,
Greg (Nerobro) and I created a "last minute" camera mount for my Vetter fairing (that hung off the right side using the "lowers" mounting screws) the night before we did a track lap at the Indy Moto GP two years ago. Despite rubber dampening in various places it suffered from vibration at higher RPM's, and I now realize from your excellent description that the combination of a short bracket, along with low mass on the camera end contributed to the vibration problems (along with the camera having mistakenly been set to low res instead of high res - I'm still kickin myself for that one!). We also made a mount for his bike, which yielded similar results for the same reasons, although in his case the camera was set to record video "properly" ... it was just a lower resolution camera than mine.
If I ever use the mount again I'll remember to add weight to the bottom in order to improve the results.
Regards,
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