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Am I too rich

  • Thread starter Thread starter sidecardad
  • Start date Start date
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sidecardad

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This bike wont run in 3rd gear or higher under load.It will free rev like crazy and idles fine. 650gl, Carbs cleaned and diped, o-ring kit,cleaned again,slides slide free,diaphragms look good,petcock by passed with another shutoff,compression good, valves adjusted,new plugs,wires,caps,coils checked, coil relay mod,stator checked,nice blue spark from plugs, timing set,pickup coils checked. The carbs have pods(previous owner) and 120 mains(manual says it should have 110) needles have been shimmed up .5mm. Everything else is stock. Plugs were pretty black and sooted when i did a chop in 3rd when it stalled. I've done everything I can think of. Any ideas? Greatfull for any help. I'll even take a good flaming.
 
Black sooty is a rich condition. Where are the mixture scews set at? Are the pods clean? And pods take VERY little oil sometimes or they act like they are choking the bike to death. Take off the pods and give her a go and see what happens..and YES the bike WILL run without them on. Or clean and dry the pods but dont oil them and take her for a run to see if they were maybe over oiled.
 
The pods are off now. Runs the same. I've had the mixture screws everywhere but 2 1/2 is where it idles best.
 
Where is the big idle knob in the center set at? How i set them is to just touch it off to the thottle linkage and add about 1 1/2 turns. This should get close to the 1,000 to 1,500 RPM range when started.

Its kind of a melding of the idle knob and the mixture screws as far as how it idles. The jets sizes you listed dont seem out of the norm..least not to me.
 
It idles around 1000 i think( tach doesnt work) Knob is pretty close to what you mentioned. Also when I start from cold it idles it starts easy and idles with choke on but will not transition to idle with out choke. I have to rev it a few times and clear it out. Then it will idle. Stutters bad when doing this kind of like its a little flooded.
 
How long do you let it warm up? It takes these GSs a good minute to get enough heat in the cylinders to act right as far as idling off choke..and yes sometimes if its still coldish, the rev will throw some quick heat in and clear them.

Take an air hose and gently blow some air into the top air intake ( kidney bean shaped slot at the top of the carb throats) and see that the slides are rising and falling freely and completely.

Maybe the needles arent needing shimmed? Unshimming them will lean it out a bit also.
 
Tried that and all the slides seem to work good. I'll get some washers tommorrow and move the needles down. Someone must have sanded the plastic spacer because it is thinner than what the book says. Thanks for the help.
 
What slot are the clips on? Default setting is the center one. You also stated ".5MM" Half a MM seems a big shimming distance to me.. I am sure others will be along to add their shimming insights.
 
What slot are the clips on? Default setting is the center one. You also stated ".5MM" Half a MM seems a big shimming distance to me.. I am sure others will be along to add their shimming insights.

For what it's worth, my '82 650GL didn't have adjustable needles - and stock plastic spacers measured .099" thick. I replaced them with 3 (.020" thick) washers, which effectively raised the needles approx. .040" (.099" - .060" = .038"). Bike runs stock airbox, no pipe, 110 mains, 42.5 pilot, 155 air jet.

A half millimeter (0.5mm) measures approx. .020", or the equivelent of 1 washer. In your case the needles are raised approx. .080" (.099 - .020" = .079"). Not sure if the POD's warrant that much difference, I would add another washer or two and see how it works...
 
A half millimeter (0.5mm) measures approx. .020", or the equivelent of 1 washer. In your case the needles are raised approx. .080" (.099 - .020" = .079"). Not sure if the POD's warrant that much difference, I would add another washer or two and see how it works...
Yes to this- get the needle sorta close to original spot and go from there based on the 120 mains - might have poor transition but shouldn't flood the cylinders
 
Pods for sale!

Pods for sale!

Needles aren't adjustable. Went to the junkyard today and bought another set of carbs for parts, spare coil, and and ignitor. Just Ebay'ed a stock airbox assembly. Going to put the stock jets and needle spacers in and go from there. Stay tuned.
 
Sounds like a plan; some ebay sellers have trouble distingishing the differences (and some parts fiches are wrong) in the 650/550 airboxes. attached pic is of a gs650 gl- note oval orientation of airbox intake
 
That looks like the ones i bought. Hope it's right.So the 650 and 550 have the same airbox?
 
It's alive

It's alive

Just went for the maiden voyage after all the repairs and I think I got it. Replace the slides and diaphragms with another set. Changed the jets in the carbs back to stock. Put on a factory airbox(what a pain).I think my problem was a bad ground and a bad relay(coil mod). It was running rich but the ignition was breaking down under load. Fixed the ground and the relay and it ran just not great. Airbox and jets fixed that.
I have read through alot of posts on here and BikeCliff's website. Thanks for all the help!
 
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