It looks like I`m going to have to whip off the cylinder head of my GS750 (re: previous thread regarding starting problems) and check out the valve seating etc. Think the camchain is ovrdue for replacement too, but don`t really want to take the engine out and split the cases, so was thinking about a split link chain. Trouble is I have mixed feelings about using one. I guess so long as its done carefully it should be ok, but I`d appreciate any views or advice about this. Thanks.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
Another camchain question !
- Thread starter tomo
- Start date
M
madjack57754
Guest
The cam chains are of a endless design, I've split the chain using a Suzuki tool just for this job, and used the old chain to pull the new one through the lower guide box. Then the tool is used to reset the pins in the link to make the chain whole again. Very slick and you don't have to split the cases
I looked at your previous post....
I looked at your previous post....
your compression numbers were 55,55,65 & 75psi... fairly close together but all low. A lot of variables go into compression numbers, cranking speed, throttle position, altitude, air temperature, engine temperature, cam overlap, etc, etc. Even different meters will read a lot different on the same engine. If it isn't smoking or using oil, and especially if it was running fine before your starting problem began, it does not seem likely that low compression is the reason it won't start. I would try a different compression tester, when the engine is hot, cranking fast, throttle open, do it all again. Make sure the ignition is working correctly, check the valve clearances, make sure there is fuel in the carbs, and it is getting into the cylinders, check everything. In short, just make real sure the problem is internal before you pull your head off. No point opening a bag of worms if you don't need to. If the compression was bad it would have been running poorly, especially a rough idle for a long time.
I looked at your previous post....
your compression numbers were 55,55,65 & 75psi... fairly close together but all low. A lot of variables go into compression numbers, cranking speed, throttle position, altitude, air temperature, engine temperature, cam overlap, etc, etc. Even different meters will read a lot different on the same engine. If it isn't smoking or using oil, and especially if it was running fine before your starting problem began, it does not seem likely that low compression is the reason it won't start. I would try a different compression tester, when the engine is hot, cranking fast, throttle open, do it all again. Make sure the ignition is working correctly, check the valve clearances, make sure there is fuel in the carbs, and it is getting into the cylinders, check everything. In short, just make real sure the problem is internal before you pull your head off. No point opening a bag of worms if you don't need to. If the compression was bad it would have been running poorly, especially a rough idle for a long time.
Last edited:
Just to add to the previous message..
also check your valve shims for proper clearance
and redo the compression check with some oil added to the cylinder
compare the dry number to the oiled number to see if the compression problem
is due to rings or valves.
also check your valve shims for proper clearance
and redo the compression check with some oil added to the cylinder
compare the dry number to the oiled number to see if the compression problem
is due to rings or valves.
Thanks for the advice guys. I did try the test without oil first and then with oil in each pot, but only got a few psi improvement. Unfortunately can`t re-test with engine hot as the old girl won`t fire up at all. Fuel is getting through, ignition timing fine and good spark at plugs. Have`nt checked valve clearences yet though.
S
sissonk
Guest
Not sure if this is of help or not but on my GS 850 if the vac line to the petcock if leaking or broken off it is impossible to start. don't know if the 750 uses the same system or not
Good luck
Good luck
A side note to DimitriT's oil to the cylinder trick, make sure that you use a known amount, ie. one cap full per cylinder (whatever you use to measure). I use an old syringe I got from the vet. Measure your amounts exactly for each cylinder or your numbers won't be accurate. 1/2 ounce works well.
T
tfb
Guest
What makes you think your camchain is up for replacement?
Tomo
Do your top end strip down before you order any parts. If you find excessive piston and bore wear, you will need to check out the bottom end as well. At 90,000 miles you may need more than a top end refresh. I stripped my 850 and found the chain in reasonable condition after 78,000kms. The chain guide next to the exhaust was okay, but the tensioner guide had deep grooves in it and the rubber/plastic was breaking up. I fitted a light weight and slightly longer Tsubaki EK cam chain with a joiner link as discribed in a previous post. Also renewed both guides and the idler. I could have re-ringed and honed the bore, but decided to increase the capacity and CR.
Good luck
Do your top end strip down before you order any parts. If you find excessive piston and bore wear, you will need to check out the bottom end as well. At 90,000 miles you may need more than a top end refresh. I stripped my 850 and found the chain in reasonable condition after 78,000kms. The chain guide next to the exhaust was okay, but the tensioner guide had deep grooves in it and the rubber/plastic was breaking up. I fitted a light weight and slightly longer Tsubaki EK cam chain with a joiner link as discribed in a previous post. Also renewed both guides and the idler. I could have re-ringed and honed the bore, but decided to increase the capacity and CR.
Good luck
headsbikesmopars
Forum Mentor
Be sure to OPEN the throttle when checking compression. Be surprised how often this is overlooked. This will give very low numbers. Good luck, Terry.
