C
chanceafrica
Guest
i still dont know what to do. Any input? i pretty much passed all voltage tests except the last one, but im unsure if they are acurate readings or if i did the test correctly. or if im just in denial.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
C
chanceafrica
Guest
it seems like it would be way more likely that i have a voltage drop in a component or wiring then to just assume its the stator. right?
In stator pages phase A it tells you to measure your voltage drops . If you have no drops and the voltages are still low it is the stator. Get the voltage drops as low as possible. This involves chemically cleaning and prepping all connections between the battery and R/R including the fuse box and grounds.
I'd replace the stator and stop wondering....as mentioned you will probably find a section that is Cajun fried - this can cause weak output. Also look for a genuine used SH-775 r/r to put charging issues to bed!
C
chanceafrica
Guest
Ive determined i am in denial about having to replace my stator. Im looking online they are 30-40$ at their cheapest. That seems crazy low. What is the suggested replacement stator?
I found an ElectroSport Stator on Amazon for cheaper than I could buy it from Electrosport.
follow my thread of electrical woes.
follow my thread of electrical woes.
The rest aside,because there's a lot to unpack here...
WHERE on the bike are you doing these tests. Do them at the battery posts...because little voltmeters tapped into some circuit at the headight bucket are great as an indicator IF you have an idea what that voltage indicated will mean at the battery itself...there's always going to be a slight drop at the other end of the harness unless you run two separate wires independently for the little voltmeter...so, if my suspicion/hope is right, you may get higher readings than you offered -likely a half a volt at least which'll give you 14.2+..
and personally, I'd toss out "Key off 12.75" and "key off 12.82" unless the battery has been sitting awhile. They are meaningless if you just took it off the trickle charger.
and during rides too. Your tests all at 80volt indicate a stator that may be just fine, at least in your shop. As to what happens when you are running, well, the little chinese voltmeter can sometimes indicate changes that are caused by hotted-up stators, frayed wires, loose fuses and all the rest.
, and a sh*tty starter yada yada, it seems a strong possibility something is draining your battery between rides- Maybe this stereo you mentioned.Does it need power to keep presets of radios and clock? I'd look very closely at it or any other possibly drain while the bike sits. The "ammeter" function on a multimeter can do for this. Start at the 10amp setting(you need to move one of the leads), then try the highest of the ma scales .
yeah, well, maybe something is not good here but for another thread?
WHERE on the bike are you doing these tests. Do them at the battery posts...because little voltmeters tapped into some circuit at the headight bucket are great as an indicator IF you have an idea what that voltage indicated will mean at the battery itself...there's always going to be a slight drop at the other end of the harness unless you run two separate wires independently for the little voltmeter...so, if my suspicion/hope is right, you may get higher readings than you offered -likely a half a volt at least which'll give you 14.2+..
and personally, I'd toss out "Key off 12.75" and "key off 12.82" unless the battery has been sitting awhile. They are meaningless if you just took it off the trickle charger.
and during rides too. Your tests all at 80volt indicate a stator that may be just fine, at least in your shop. As to what happens when you are running, well, the little chinese voltmeter can sometimes indicate changes that are caused by hotted-up stators, frayed wires, loose fuses and all the rest.
Those reading irrefutably indicates that some charging is going on. That is particularly valuable when you are sitting there scratching your head about what might be happening. In fact, in this case, these "worthless numbers" are a strong indication that there is nothing wrong with the stator but instead it is the connections are at fault.
This is because for the bike to only run for a short while, but be able to increase standing battery voltage at all it must have charged (plain and simple). Even if it is only 12.82-12.75=0.07V that is much more than what would think because of elevated voltages due to surface charges that very quickly drop once a load is put on the battery.
A typical battery might be at 13.1V after trickle charging, but then as soon as the smallest load is applied (removing surface charge) and removed that voltage drops to 12.90V or less. So any rise in the terminal voltages means net charging of the battery.
The measurements in red (declining voltage) indicate poor wiring most likely on the positive side of the terminals between the battery and the R/R including the fusebox.
This can be confirmed with Stator Pages Phase A voltage drop measurements.
That said, there is no danger in cleaning your connections and fusebox and then see when you stand. It will in all likelihood improve the numbers (less drop with increasing RPM).
Last edited:
C
chanceafrica
Guest
I dont see any obvious damge to this
Nope just Cajun fried................................................
C
chanceafrica
Guest
I wasnt being sarcastic. I see that its black or darker in color but the color is consistent throughout the unit. Not evident of burnt spots or areas. If my whole stator was ?cajun fried? i wouldnt assume it would be working as well as it was. But you are suggesting that this looks damaged. What should i replace this with? An oem suzuki part or is there a better quality aftermarket.
C
chanceafrica
Guest
Im looking at used stators on ebay for a comparison and they all apear black like this. That may be the genuine suzuki insulation vs an aftermarket?
C
chanceafrica
Guest
Yeah so the oem suzuki part has a white coating around the coils that i assume turn black from the oil.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Two of our bikes (both of the 850s) had Caltric stators in them, not sure about the 1000. I purchased new Electrosport stators to put in all three bikes just before our "Little Ride" this past summer, just so we would start fresh. The install on the 1000 went well and seemed to improve electrical performance. Moved to my 850, found the ES stator was thinner than the Caltric. Had to get shorter screws to mount it. Electrical performance is not quite as good, it takes more engine RPM before it gets to 14+ volts. Based on that, I did not change the stator on my wife's bike, but we took the new stator along as a spare.
I will be going into my engine for other reasons this winter, I will be getting another Caltric to replace the ES.
.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...ystem-thread-82-gs850gl&p=2520372#post2520372
well , then, why all this about the stator? I'm still left guessing it's the radio,without some other info.
-appearances can be deceiving but it Looks ok from what I can see. Suzukis pour oil out at the shaft so this just looks like typical staining to me-their varnish was just typical winding varnish I think. Not many electric motors spin in oil so it's hard to compare to a typical winding.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...ystem-thread-82-gs850gl&p=2520372#post2520372
well , then, why all this about the stator? I'm still left guessing it's the radio,without some other info.
-appearances can be deceiving but it Looks ok from what I can see. Suzukis pour oil out at the shaft so this just looks like typical staining to me-their varnish was just typical winding varnish I think. Not many electric motors spin in oil so it's hard to compare to a typical winding.
Can't say I know what is absolutely what is wrong here. It could be a combination of not just one thing.
OP said that ".......did all the measurements and everything is fine" Clclearly this is not the case and without actual numerical values it is just conjecture and guessing which I'm not going to waste my time doing.
I only just yesterday noticed the full set of 6 reading from the Quick test.
I don't recall any other reading for a say voltage drop of leg-to-Leg or Leg-to-Ground testing.
I did see that I had posted a few weeks ago to look at the stator and if it was fried replace both R/R and stator.
So If at this point the OP doesn't want to do that, he can enjoy his hobby on his own terms.
This thread started on Oct 23, 2018!!!
Happy New Year 2019.
Last edited:
C
chanceafrica
Guest
i replaced the stator with the one reccomended the caltric i believe. i was alarmed by how they had the tail whip attatched to the stator. it was with an x of zipties around one of the coils. i didnt believe they intended you to run that like that, so i took it off and reffered to my old stator for its stress relief mechanism. the loom is relieved from stress by a cable strap which is threaded into the stator core. the caltric stator has a threaded hole where this should go but is a very abnormal size no bolts i had would thread into it. the diameter was off. and i have alot of hardware at my disposal. so i just installed it without any stress relief and assumed the wire routing in the case would keep that loom from withering about.
OK SO ANYWAYS i installed this unit, i didnt have replacement oil but wanted to check the system anyway so i fired it for a few seconds, and it is still off. it is different from the other stator but still not right. if my results were exactly the same as with the old stator, i'd know it was in the wiring or reg/rectifier(i tested the reg/rectifier). but its different, so its a combo of the old stator going out and an issue in my wiring. it seemed to sit at 12.5 and climb to 13.5. im gonna put some oil in it today and give it another go. but im still not sure what to go for here.
OK SO ANYWAYS i installed this unit, i didnt have replacement oil but wanted to check the system anyway so i fired it for a few seconds, and it is still off. it is different from the other stator but still not right. if my results were exactly the same as with the old stator, i'd know it was in the wiring or reg/rectifier(i tested the reg/rectifier). but its different, so its a combo of the old stator going out and an issue in my wiring. it seemed to sit at 12.5 and climb to 13.5. im gonna put some oil in it today and give it another go. but im still not sure what to go for here.
You could try pulling fuses and see if that helps up the voltage...everything except ignition (orange/White wire 10A) and the Master (red wire 15A) . and be sure to disconnect your radio !
I don't know if your regulator has a "sense" wire, but if so, connect it to the RED or the battery directly .
Read the voltage AT THE BATTERY.
I don't know if your regulator has a "sense" wire, but if so, connect it to the RED or the battery directly .
Read the voltage AT THE BATTERY.
C
chanceafrica
Guest
I did find a voltage drop i think . I tested the positive battery terminal and back probed the red lead to the harness which is going to the ignition switch i think. I had .2v drop at idle and .7 or so at 4/5k rpms. But just starting my bike 2 or 3 times drained my battery so im gonna charge it over night and try again tomorrow. I took the red lead straight to the positive terminal with an inline fuse. With minimal voltage drop .02 or something like that
