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Another clutch adjustment thread...please help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chuckster
  • Start date Start date
C

Chuckster

Guest
Okay guys,
First of all, I want to say I have searched the existing threads to try and solve my problem, but I can't seem to find a fix. Y'all have brought me a long way on my journey to get my 1981 Suzuki GS550T road worthy and I do really appreciate that. I just have replaced the front and rear sprockets and installed a new chain. Replaced the tires too since I wasn't planning on taking it apart again any time soon. Anyway, last night I had a friend come over and help me torque down the front sprocket. No problem. However, now my clutch will not disengage. The rear wheel will spin freely while on the center stand and it is in neutral. However, when I put it in gear, the rear wheel will not turn while pulling in the clutch lever. And I mean it's locked. It will move a few inches back and forth, but it stops dead still at those points while in gear. So I read my Clymer manual and did all the adjustments it said. Still no change. I adjusted it to where there was no play in the cable whatsoever to a little bit of slack and still no change. The clutch rod is stiff and I have plenty of resistence as the lever is fairly hard to pull back (as it should be), but it just acts like it is not doing anything. Before I took it apart, my clutch and lever worked fine and shifting was fine. No problems at all. I've taken it apart so many times now, I can do it in my sleep. I really don't think there is anything wrong with my clutch, but I've adjusted it every which way I know to do it. I'm really baffled and don't know what else to do. There's only so much adjusting you can do at the three points (clutch lever, top of sprocket cover, and inside clutch adjustment cover). I really don't want to pay someone to do something that shouldn't be that hard to do. Any ideas?

DSC_0514acpaint.jpg
 
Try it with the engine running. You can't unstick the clutch plates with your hand on the rear wheel. You might be able to unstick it if you pull the clutch and push it in 2nd gear, but maybe not. You could do a bump start with the ignition off--that should do it. Or just start the engine.
 
p_s said:
Try it with the engine running. You can't unstick the clutch plates with your hand on the rear wheel. You might be able to unstick it if you pull the clutch and push it in 2nd gear, but maybe not. You could do a bump start with the ignition off--that should do it. Or just start the engine.
Click to expand...

So you think because it's been sitting might be the cause? I've been working on it for the last 6 months and haven't cranked it during that time. It was running fine before I started doing work on it. It's been slow going as I have a 4 year old and a six month old baby that takes priority. Not complaining. I just work on it when I can. I guess I'll just adjust it to where I think it should be and crank it and see what it does.
 
I would pull the timing cover off and use a socket or wrench to try and turn the engine over in neutral. How much torque did you apply on the front sprocket nut?
 
SkeletonLake said:
I would pull the timing cover off and use a socket or wrench to try and turn the engine over in neutral. How much torque did you apply on the front sprocket nut?
Click to expand...

I torqued the front sprocket in accordance with the manual. I don't remember the ft lbs. I'd have to look but I went on the conservative end of the range. What does the torque on the sprocket have to do with the clutch? The rear wheel spins fine in neutral.
 
The torque on the front sproket has nothing to do with the clutch. If you held the sproket in place by applying the rear brake I can't see how it could impact the clutch. Like "P S" says its probably just stuck. When these wet clutches sit for a while the clutch disks can get stcuk to the plates. Aftermarket clutches with high pressure springs will do it after sitting overnight. Get the bike sitting on the ground in second gear. While sitting on it pull the clutch in and rock it forward and backward as hard as you can. Most will pop free after 2 - 3 rcoks. If it hasn't been running in six months it may take more.
 
if your bike has a centerstand. place the bike on the centerstand and in neutral start the motor. pull in the clutch and engage first gear, then at idle ease the clutch out to about half way and slowly apply the rear brake. you may need to add some throttle to prevent a stall.
 
If none of these other suggestions work, my 79 550 had a white plastic piece that was on the inside of the clutch cover. It was "rifled" would be the best way to describe it. This piece could be inserted in a few different positions that would greatly effect how far the clutch rod would travel. You may have installed this so that you are not effectively disengaging the clutch - not pushing the clutch rod out far enough.

Just a thought.

Byrd
 
I discovered that if you put it in second and push the bike off the centerstand it frees 'em up. But mine were only sitting for a few days. It's easier to just fire it up and let it free itself if that's an option.
 
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