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Another flywheel removal question...

  • Thread starter Thread starter blacksmoke611
  • Start date Start date
B

blacksmoke611

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hey all, tried to bring my new bike back to life after many years of sitting in a barn, cleaned carbs out and tried firing it up. it backfired and now the starter just free wheels. im guessing i sheared the three flywheel bolts.
---now onto my question.. i been looking to find a puller, after reading many of the threads on this site, and i keep coming up with two different options when lookin for a puller. just a bolt(m16x1.5) and a spacer like most have done. or i find another option being a large female style puller that threads on the outside of the rotor shaft with a bolt that threads through the middle to pull it off. which one correct for my bike? or does it matter.. 1981 gs1000gl

thanks for the time guys.
 
Not sure about puller, but I would take out starter and check it. Very possible it could be bad or need a good cleaning. A lot easier than pulling rotor. terrylee
 
I did pull cover off and tried starting, rotor and crank dont move, starter, starter idler and flywheel all move freely.
 
Yes, the bike and year always helps.

Here's what I did. I used the bolt method. I also applied some heat to the flywheel hole (avoid the magnets). I then used a big tourqe wrench to bring the bolt to 80 lb ft of tourqe. I then smacked the end of the bolt with a hammer and the flywheel came loose.

Good luck.
 
I did in my original post.. at the end. it is a 1981 GS1000GL
 
if you have a nut and not a bolt holding the rotor on....
then you need the large diameter puller that screws onto the rotor.
there are large and small diameter puller's.
large taper cranks take the small puller and the small takes the large.
i believe your bike takes the large puller.
 
I believe your bike does use the 16mm x 1.5rh - but check and verify multiple sources. I recently ordered a puller for my 81 GS750E from a store on ebay and it was the wrong size.

Motion Pro actually published the information wrong in their reference guides.

Also, use a real puller. They can be had for around $10 bucks, it's worth it. When I waited for and received the wrong puller, I got frustrated and used the bolt and spacer method -- it nearly destroyed my crank threads.

I was able to re-thread the crank with a tap but I still shudder at the thought of a complete engine tear-down/crank replace, just for being a knucklehead.
 
OriginalOwner said:
I believe your bike does use the 16mm x 1.5rh - but check and verify multiple sources. I recently ordered a puller for my 81 GS750E from a store on ebay and it was the wrong size.

Motion Pro actually published the information wrong in their reference guides.

Also, use a real puller. They can be had for around $10 bucks, it's worth it. When I waited for and received the wrong puller, I got frustrated and used the bolt and spacer method -- it nearly destroyed my crank threads.

I was able to re-thread the crank with a tap but I still shudder at the thought of a complete engine tear-down/crank replace, just for being a knucklehead.
Click to expand...

he can't use the bolt and spacer method if he has a nut on his crank which i believe he does.
the best puller are suzuki puller's for the large bike applications but are around 75 bucks give or take.
 
My gs1000gl does have the m14x1.5 bolt, not the nut. but when you look at it there are threads on the outside of the shaft (anyone know how to find out the size and pitch?) , and also m16x1.5 threads on the inside. which is the reason i asked which puller to use..? i wouldn't think it would matter would it?
 
blowerbike said:
now that i can believe coming from dar...
could have sworn i had an 80 or 81 G model with an 1100E type taper.
Click to expand...
I think that the 1100G shafties have the nut. (Hey Chuck, notice how I said "I think", so as not to spread false information and admit that there is a slim chance that I could be wrong?):D
 
More importantly, how are you guys taking the nut/bolt off or on? Suzuki has a tool that holds the flywheel when doing this. Using the wrench and hammer method is defenetly not the way to do it. The crankshaft is only pressed together...
 
I suppose... Maybe in just over thinking about it. I made the tool anyway.
 
the 82 1100g I have sitting in pieces does have a nut. it needs the tool to remove.
 
TeamDar said:
I think that the 1100G shafties have the nut. (Hey Chuck, notice how I said "I think", so as not to spread false information and admit that there is a slim chance that I could be wrong?):D
Click to expand...

that could be...been many many years ago.
i remember having parts from the crank used on a chain drive crank so it must have been an 1100 shafty for the stroke to have been correct.
chuck?
chuck?
poke poke from dar:cool:
 
when i went to remove the bolt, i put the bike in 5th gear and held the rear brake like some have suggested. tried to remove bolt, used considerable effort and all i did was turn the engine over, rear wheel not moving.. would that mean my clutch pack is weak? even though i did use considerable force and a long ratchet? anyways, i just put a 19mm socket and ratchet on other end of crank and rotor bolt came right off.
 
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