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Another guy with a carging problem....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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I have seen posts on this subject before..... I have a new Die Hard battery That the bike is not keeping charged. I can't remember if it is the recifier, or some other part that goes bad. Or both. Let me know what to replace, and I'll be all set Thanks Chris.
 
Re: Another guy with a carging problem....

chrisdnoel said:
I have seen posts on this subject before..... I have a new Die Hard battery That the bike is not keeping charged. I can't remember if it is the recifier, or some other part that goes bad. Or both. Let me know what to replace, and I'll be all set Thanks Chris.
Click to expand...
Use the tests recomended her for an accurate diagnosis. http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm
 
shame on you, Chris, you have been a member long enough to know to follow the stator pages first!! :?
 
I know, I know.

I know, I know.

Actually I've never gone back and searched a subject. Only asked questions.
 
Ohhh Man.

Ohhh Man.

I don't think I'm going to be able to figure out this problem.. I can poke around to see if some of the wires are bad, or not connected improperly, but no way I'm going to be able to check it out with any sort of meeter. If its not 12v lite that tells me if the juice is on or not I don't know how to use it.
 
I just read my manual...

I just read my manual...

We'll I just read my factory manual and clymer. They both made it sound much easier. The factory manual says to test the stator wires first. This makes more sense becouse if the rectifier tests bad it may be the stator that is the problem.

All that talk in the stator files about diodes and goobly gook made me think that I had to be an electrician to figure this stuff out.

All you really need to know is wich wires to test, and weather or not to do an AC or DC test on them. Three wires for the stator, and the battery terminals.
 
Batteries can be a little low on power when you get them from the store, so my Q is; Did you topcharge your new Die Hard battery before taking it in use?
 
Did you do the voltage/rpm tests yet??? What were your results
 
The battery is good.

The battery is good.

The battery is good, and it was charged.

Its actually the second battery I've gone through. I thought the first one might be the problem becouse it was a cheapo. The Die hard is better. It didn't even need a charge after I filled it. It lost its charge after I ballanced the carbs and rode it a few times. I charged it again and then the bike ran for about 20 or 30 miles before I lost all power. I had to bring it home on a U-haul trailer. I charged the battery for about 3 hrs, and the bike started right up agn. I have a bulb tester for the battery, so I'll be sure all the cells are fully charged before I do any electrical tests.

I don't own a volt meeter. I'll be going to buy or borrow one today.

This old thing is sure teaching me how to maintain a motorcycle.
 
Most motorcycle batteries require charging for about 8 hrs. (with a 1 amp charger)after the electrolite is added to be fully charged. IMO this important step is often neglected and can ultimately lead to chasing multilple false electrical problems. 1st step in troubleshooting the electrics on GS's is to make sure the battery is fully and correctly charged.
Here's a link... statement #6 may apply in your case. :(
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.asp?action=1&id=15
 
Thanks.

Thanks.

I went out and got a volt meeter. The battery will start the bike, but I checked it with a syringe tester, and its not registering above 1.200. I'll check it agn in 4 or 5 hrs till I get a reading abobe 1.260 or so. Then I'll get to work with the meeter.

They guy at the parts store said to set the meeter at 200 on the AC for the stator, and 200 on the DC side for the rectifier.

Does this sound good?
 
I know I have missed something in this thread but i AM STILL WONDERING WHAT THE RESULTS OF THE VOLTAGE OUTPUT WHILE MOTOR RUNNING TESTS WAS??? I alwaYS HIT THE Cps key by mistake--sorry---BOY?? I relaay did it that time :lol:
 
According to my manual....

According to my manual....

According to my manual the stator wires should test at 75v AC
white/blue to yellow
white/blue to white/green
white/green to yellow

The rectifier test at the terminals with the two 10 a fuzes pulled should be betwen 14 and 15.5v DC

Above 15.5 = bad rectifier.
bellow 14 = bad rectifier or stator.

Should I set the meeter at 200 AC and 200 DC accordingly when I do the test?
 
You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

Hope you can follow what I am outlining here.
 
Just a few words about our batteries ? we have to take care of them as a living creature, or else this nasty parasites called sulfation will pack up all over the battery plates. If you don?t feed the battery, or charge it, the sulfate will start to crystallise in a short time. The faster you start charging the battery ? the better.
Also check the level of acid ? it should be abot 10 mm or a small 0,5 inch over cell plates in battery(at least the plates have to be covered at all times). Always use distilled or cleaned water. (Water straight from the tap can contain iron or cupper ? which is the worst enemy of the battery!).
Chrisdnoel,
I see you will stop charging at a specific gravity of the acid of 1,260 ? which is about 80% of the capacity for the battery. At a specific gravity of 1,280 the battery is 100% charged, over the next two hours it will drop to 1,270 / 1,275(on a fresh btt). The last and important 20% of charging take many hours.
/jan
 
And now I have been educated.

And now I have been educated.

Ah haa.. Thanks.
 
Sowhile we are on the topic. My voltage across the battery teminals is 13.5 v at idle and at 4000K no difference!!! what does that mean? Bad rect. or Stator? Please say Rect...
GY
 
Oh Scotty ! I know these test papers are here! I was hoping you would just tell me what was wrong... I'm lazy and want a quick fix! Can't you make house calls?
:) GY
 
I still havn't done the running test, but.

I still havn't done the running test, but.

I still havn't done the running test, but I did the Ohm test non running on the stator. With the meeter on 200 in the Ohm settings I got 1 to 1.2 or so on all pairs of wires. This seems to be ok right? I'll have to do the running test to see for sure how the R/R is doing, but I think its probably bad becouse I didn't get the results that Billy Ricks outlined on that.
 
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