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Another LED signal light question

willie

willie

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I've read through the various posts re: signals not flashing after installing LEDs and how to correct the problem by installing diodes in the indicator light circuit. Here's my situation: I connected the the front signal light wire to both the running light and signal filaments. Naturally, both filaments come on when the signal is switched on. I then installed a coiled LED strip in the rear signal housing as a replacement for the stock bulb. I knew the LED strip would draw only a 1/10 of the stock bulb but felt the flasher would still work because the additional filament is being used up front but it doesn't. Instead, the signal lights (on the side that is activated) come on but don't flash.
Is there a relatively easy way to get the flasher to work, other than returning to the original signal light setup? FWIW, I'm wondering if adding a resistor in the circuit would do the trick. However, if it would, I'm not sure where exactly to install it.
Thanks,
Willie
 
You would have to add a LOT of LEDs to get your stock flasher to work.

Two options (assuming you want to keep your LEDs):

1. Install a resistor IN PARALLEL with your signals. This will allow additional current through the flasher, making it work as intended.
Not just any resistor, it has to be sized (ohms and watts) to handle the load.
Note that this option will not save any current, if that is your reason for changing to LEDs.

2. Install a flasher that is made for LEDs. This will flash the signals, no matter if you are using LEDs or headlight bulbs. :eek:
The only drawback is that, if your bike has self-cancelling signals, they will never self-cancel again.

.
 
You can get a no-load flasher from most auto parts stores (and eBay or Amazon) for less than $15.
 
Saving current was an unimportant bonus that I don't care about. However, I didn't realize the self-cancelling feature would be affected if I change flashers. I'm guessing that a flasher meant for LEDs is the same type (ie no-load) that Bob suggested. If not, would the no-load flasher require the installation of diodes and affect the self-canceller?
Willie
 
willie said:
Saving current was an unimportant bonus that I don't care about. However, I didn't realize the self-cancelling feature would be affected if I change flashers. I'm guessing that a flasher meant for LEDs is the same type (ie no-load) that Bob suggested. If not, would the no-load flasher require the installation of diodes and affect the self-canceller?
Willie
Click to expand...
the running light filament is about 4 to 8 watts, the signal filament is 20 or 30 or so.

A running light + a flasher is not equal to two flashers.

A load resistor would allow the use of the stock flasher and self canceler.

I don't know if the self canceler would work with a no-load flasher
 
Thanks again Steve. I'm always impressed with just how helpful the members of this forum are.
Willie
 
It looks like my main choices on ebay are a 25 watt or 50 watt resistor. Both are 6 ohms. I read the #s on the bulb I'm replacing and its 23 watts (kinda odd IMO). Am I correct to order a 25 watt resistor? Just wanna make sure before committing. Also, FWIW, I checked the local Radio Shack for a load resistor and all they carry are the ceramic type.
I doubt they'll work but would like to know for sure about that too.
Thanks in advance,
Willie
 
willie said:
Thanks again Steve. I'm always impressed with just how helpful the members of this forum are.
Willie
Click to expand...
Sorry, but you haven't seen "helpful" yet.
noway.gif


"Helpful" is when one of the members will drive to where you are and give you a hand. Doesn't even need to be your house. If you are stuck on the side of the road somewhere, someone will likely do what they can to help get you going again.

Your location is not all that far out of the way for me. I have been known to go down Rt. 23, just to avoid I-75.

Some of us (probably just me :oops:) even travel on weekends to help others. I do it because I am stuck in various locations for work for several weeks at a time, with nothing to do on the weekends, so I find somewhere to get my fingernalis dirty. :D


willie said:
It looks like my main choices on ebay are a 25 watt or 50 watt resistor. Both are 6 ohms. I read the #s on the bulb I'm replacing and its 23 watts (kinda odd IMO). Am I correct to order a 25 watt resistor?
Click to expand...
You only plan on lighting up one light? :-k

Your bike is designed to send power to one light on the front and one light on the rear, for a total of 46 watts, so get the 50 watt resistors.

.
 
Just for future, a standard electronic no load flasher from autozone or where-ever will run LEDs without problem. Used em on my cafe, and used one of those little cylinder shaped flasher units, worked a treat.
 
Steve said:
Your location is not all that far out of the way for me. I have been known to go down Rt. 23, just to avoid I-75.
You only plan on lighting up one light? :-k
Your bike is designed to send power to one light on the front and one light on the rear, for a total of 46 watts, so get the 50 watt resistors.
.
Click to expand...
The strangest thing about Rte 23, for me, has been that I've ridden through rain every time I've been on 23, some where. Nice road though.
As for the power consumption of my signals. My reasoning behind going with the 25 watt resistor was that I thought each "corner" needed its own resistor. I've got over 25 watts going to the front 2 because I'm staying with the OEM set up. I'm only converting the back 2.

And KC, I want to keep the self cancelling feature of my current setup and got the impression that wouldn't work with an LED flasher.
Willie
 
willie said:
As for the power consumption of my signals. My reasoning behind going with the 25 watt resistor was that I thought each "corner" needed its own resistor.
Click to expand...

The resistance in ohms is what determines how much power the resistor will use.

The power rating only tells you how much power it will take to blow it up... under specified test conditions ... which you might exceed.

The 25 watt one will be right at the edge of what it can take.

The 50 watt one will have a decent safety margin.

Upgrade to the 50 watt one.
 
bakalorz said:
The resistance in ohms is what determines how much power the resistor will use.

The power rating only tells you how much power it will take to blow it up... under specified test conditions ... which you might exceed.

The 25 watt one will be right at the edge of what it can take.

The 50 watt one will have a decent safety margin.

Upgrade to the 50 watt one.
Click to expand...


Also, a 6 ohm resistor dissipates 24 watts at 12 volts

Our bikes run at say 14.4 ... 6 ohms at 14.4 volts is 35 watts
 
Thanks alot for the additional information. Its all clear to me now. I'll go with the 50 ohm unit. But, still believe, according to the info in the item description that I'll need one for each light I'm replacing. Except for one, that's listed as a Kaw replacement unit that works for 2 lights (each side).
Willie
 
im a newby to the forums with a similar issue
i have an 82 gs1100g, replaced rear turn signals with smaller 10w bulbs
now my signals turn on but don't blink. i purchased a 3 prong universal replacement flasher and the lights do not even turn on (the ebay seller said it will work - contacted him and he had no idea what the problem could be)
:confused::confused:
 
Why did you go to the 10W bulbs? To decrease the electrical load? The stock bulbs are pretty cheap at auto parts stores. Maybe the replacemnt flasher is bad. Seems lights should at least turn on if not flash. Is the replacement a "no load" type? I have a Vetter fairing and trunk and I think all the lights were compromising my charging ability. I changed the running lights on the trunk to LEDS but haven't done anything to the signals. I'm going to change my trunk brake lights to LEDS also.
 
i broke stock blinker stem and found a set of arrow shaped blinkers cheaper than the originals were gonna cost.
 
Last edited:
Is it a no-load flasher? That's what you need for such a low wattage bulb, or for LEDs. You can get them at most auto parts stores.
 
carey said:
im a newby to the forums with a similar issue
i have an 82 gs1100g, replaced rear turn signals with smaller 10w bulbs
now my signals turn on but don't blink. i purchased a 3 prong universal replacement flasher and the lights do not even turn on (the ebay seller said it will work - contacted him and he had no idea what the problem could be)
:confused::confused:
Click to expand...

Something below that could be confusing.

The stock GS flasher relay flashes slower with less load or a blown bulb and at some point even stops flashing and the lights stay on. They are actually on in normal state and the lights go off every time the relay is energized.

Automotive flasher units on the other hand usually flash faster with less load or if a bulb is blown. They are actually off in normal state and the lights come on every time the flasher relay is energized. So with less load (smaller bulbs) they may not have enough current flowing to get the flasher to change state from normally off to on, thus the lights stay out.

This is due to the design of a specific flasher relay to allow it to be controlled by the turn cancelling unit.

The only way to overcome flasher problems if you have a faulty stock flasher relay or non stock bulbs (less than 2 x 23 Watt) is to fit a flasher unit that is not dependant on the load provided by the bulbs, or to add additional load by fitting resistors which are bulky, get hot and for which there is seldom proper space and cooling. I personally would stay away from this if possible.
You should also note that fitting any other flasher unit than the OEM type will disable the self cancelling function.
The 3 pin electronic flasher relays usually require an extra ground wire to be run to the flasher relay.
 
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