Another one back from the grave/ '81 GS1100EX

[7981GS]

I placed a cracklist ad last week just to see what would happen and this was the first one to reply.
The ad read: "Wanted GS Suzuki's '78-'86 non-running with title preferred"

I went to check it out a few nights ago:

Today, GSExpress and I went to pick it up.
Got it unloaded and started to tinker with it.
The PO said that it hadn't ran in a while and when it did, they installed another petcock under the tank as it was leaking.
So, I pulled the tank to see what he did and just about died LMAO!!!

I'm sure that it ran like this. :lol:

So, as I already had a nicer tank that was recently procured from another GSR member in the NE USA,
I switched tanks after seeing if I could get it it run first.
Hooked a charger up to the dead battery while dinking around with other things on the bike.
The headlight barely came on and no start or click of any kind.
Tried to cross the solenoid with the key on... NOTHING!
Replaced the battery with one from my '79 1000E and back in business!
Pulled the headlight and disabled the clutch safety switch, cranking!!!
Drained the two gallons of gasoline and oil out of the crankcase and changed the oil filter.
One quart cheapo 20W-50 and the remainder with 15W-40 Diesel oil.
Replaced the screwed up acorn nuts and washers on the oil filter cover while I was at it and changed two stripped studs.


Continued...

 

[7981GS]

Got it to fire up with some pure Berryman's B-12 poured into a small funnel.
It ran but popped and backfired.
After untangling the seized choke cable with the ball end wrapped around the choke linkage ,
I disconnected the choke cable and used a pair of tiny vice grips to hold the choke open a little bit and it started to cooperate.
After unscrewing the idle screw about 20 revolutions ,
it finally started to warm up and get closer to idling.
Tightened all of the intake manifold clamps and snugged down some odd engine bolts. (front center and two center end cylinder bolts)
Replaced the choke cable with a spare and I went back to the carbs.
Adjusted the fuel screws to about 2 and 1/4 turns out, lowered the idle speed and it started to sound like a GS!
Installed the fuel tank that was acquired from the GSR member, added the rest of the can of Berryman's and two gallons of gasoline.
Installed a vacuum hose on the capped off by PO port to the petcock and fuel hose to petcock.
The tank started to leak at the petcock!
Removed the tank and found the tank to petcock seal was buggered up and the gasket washers on the bolts that hold it were missing.
Went to my handy GS parts box and found a new petcock O-ring and the gasket washers.
Cleaned off the surface where the petcock mounts with coarse steel wool and installed the petcock and tank again.
No more leaks!
As I didn't have any new NGK D8EA spark plugs, I pulled the fouled/wet plugs out and sand blaster them in a sparkplug cleaner.
Gapped them to .030 added anti-seize to the threads and fired it up again.
Flushed out the rear brake fluid (mud). Sun going down, will get the front tomorrow.
Installed a nicer seat that I had collecting dust, aired up the may-pop tires and took it for a spin around the block.
The clutch lever still needs to have the cable adjusted as it did not want to go into neutral while the bike was running.
As it was beyond Sundown, I'll get to it later.

The almost finished product (no mirrors yet) ready for a test ride:

She is smooth as silk, hauls azz and is a hoot to ride!
Well worth the effort.


Continued...

 

[7981GS]

As I always stock 34CV carb kits from Robert Barr, I will be doing the carbs correctly soon,
replacing the may-pop tires, finish working on the brakes and check the steering head bearing for grease, etc.

Short vid from after the ride:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yasbmWBVf-M


Get out and ride these beasts!


Daniel

 

[cowboyup3371]

Although I might not agree with your political comments, I am in envy of your abilities. Great job so far.

 

[tkent02]

That is going to be a pretty sweet ride.
Congrats!

That's one of my favorite big GSes, bigger more comfy than the newer ones, faster than the older ones, lighter than all of the shafties. Nice score.

 

[Good Times]

Great find. Great bike. Great mechanical skills. Great thread. Way to go Daniel.

 

[Guest]

Daniel you're like the RSPCA for GS'... bring the lost ones back home to be fixed up and set free again

 

[saffa]

looks schweet .....nice save

 

[Guest]

Way to go!
Can't wait to see you get all the bugs out, maybe today!

 

[7981GS]

After logging over 500 worry free miles on her. it was time to fix the developing cam cover leak and do the routine valve adjustment procedure.
I highly recommend using two feeler gauges when doing this!
Apparently whoever did it the last time, only used one.
Each pair of rockers had one that was a hair tight and one that was a little loose.

The diesel oil still shows no color change so I will let it go another 1,000 miles or so
before changing the oil to synthetic.
Probably when I throw the oil cooler on it.
As it has only been between 28 and 60 degrees out while riding this past month or so,
I think that it can wait. LOL!

BTW, after doing this procedure, I must say that changing out shims is FAR EASIER to do.


Daniel

 

[Vmass]

Great Job..........I must still be in the dark ages with my tools, what type of wrench is that 9mm?

 

[7981GS]

Apparently, the lock-nut is a 9mm head nut.
The adjuster tube with the knurled knob is a 4mm square socket.
I bought the 6-piece Motion Pro tool for doing this task a few months ago
and wasn't sure of the sizes.
I think that you can buy the one tool (two parts) from Z1 for as much as I paid for the entire set.
If, you only plan to work on these engines.

Daniel

 

[Guest]

Nice one Daniel! And yeah I don't reckon the lock nut valve adjustments would be fun...

 

[7981GS]

As I had not downloaded these yet yesterday,
I just wanted to share how the cam cover bolts started out when removed...

Versus what I do to every bolt that is removed and re-used before adding the anti-sieze...

I hope that everyone out there is doing the same.
The only way to get a true torque reading, is with clean threads.
For those of you that don't use torque wrenches or use the beam-type,
disregard and just tighten those nasty bolts down.


Daniel

 

[AX2007]

As I had not downloaded these yet yesterday,
I just wanted to share how the cam cover bolts started out when removed...

Versus what I do to every bolt that is removed and re-used before adding the anti-sieze...

I hope that everyone out there is doing the same.
The only way to get a true torque reading, is with clean threads.
For those of you that don't use torque wrenches or use the beam-type,
disregard and just tighten those nasty bolts down.


Daniel

How did you clean those bolts?

 

[Guest]

Excellent that another rises from the ruins Daniel! Its a nice feeling when they jump to life after a going over.

I do the same thing to all the nuts and bolts too. Save a lot of headaches and things go together soooo much easier.

 

[7981GS]

I forgot to post these pic's of the CORRECT WAY to tighten the cam cover bolts:

84 inch pounds...

And these, I couldn't find a spec for. They got 65 inch pounds...

As they had to come off anyway to pull the cover, I took a wire wheel to these...

After...

If I wanted to give a rat's butt, I might have polished and painted them.
I prefer to ride.

Daniel

 

[Guest]

I forgot to post these pic's of the CORRECT WAY to tighten the cam cover bolts:

84 inch pounds...

And these, I couldn't find a spec for. They got 65 inch pounds...

As they had to come off anyway to pull the cover, I took a wire wheel to these...

After...

If I wanted to give a rat's butt, I might have polished and painted them.
I prefer to ride.

Daniel

Daniel,
Is that wrench "calibrated?" Hope so!

 

[gearhead13]

:-k You said cam cover bolts, I think they are called valve cover bolts. I couldn't figure out how cam cover bolts could EVER get that dirty.