• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Another Valve Adjustment Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter rickt
  • Start date Start date
R

rickt

Guest
Received my niffty tappet depressor from Z1 today and took a quick shot at depressing a tappet just to see how it worked. After a couple of rather "gentle" attempts to depress without any noticeable depression, I thought it best to seek advice before I destroyed, mangled, mutilated, or otherwise damaged something very important.

The bike is my '78 G750C restoration project.

Is it correct that the highest ridge on the circular part of the tool should contact the outer rim of the tappet? How much pressure is needed to actually depress the tappet? How far down should the tappet move before the shim can be removed? Does the tool typically produce nicks in the edge of the tappet?

Many questions and I'm hoping for some answers before I try again.

Thanks,
rickt
 
rickt said:
Received my niffty tappet depressor from Z1 today and took a quick shot at depressing a tappet just to see how it worked. After a couple of rather "gentle" attempts to depress without any noticeable depression, I thought it best to seek advice before I destroyed, mangled, mutilated, or otherwise damaged something very important.

The bike is my '78 G750C restoration project.

Is it correct that the highest ridge on the circular part of the tool should contact the outer rim of the tappet? How much pressure is needed to actually depress the tappet? How far down should the tappet move before the shim can be removed? Does the tool typically produce nicks in the edge of the tappet?

Many questions and I'm hoping for some answers before I try again.

Thanks,
rickt
Click to expand...

Yes, decent pressure, as far as you can depress it, and no. LOL. You need to assure your cam lobe is rotated so that the point is UP, to assure you have needed room to get the shim out. They are FIDDLEY as i said, and sometimes they are more in your way than anything else. Good luck :)
 
Hi Mr. rickt,

Also, make sure the curved part is maintaining pressure against the cam as you press the tappet tool down (a little oil/grease on the curved part of the tappet tool helps too). It's almost as if I'm pushing the tool toward the cam as I'm pushing it down. The highest ridge of the tool should press down on the rim of the bucket. Once you have it properly positioned and pressed down, the tool will stay in place and hold the bucket down while you get the shim in and out.

shimtooldiagram.jpg


Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Once you have it properly positioned and pressed down, the tool will stay in place and hold the bucket down while you get the shim in and out.
Click to expand...

And if you don't quite get it properly positioned, it'll snap back up before you get it pushed all the way down. And it does take pretty decent pressure. You need all the space you can get to get the shims in and out.
 
Just takes a little practice, lube it up, stick it in, get it in just the right place.
 
chef1366 said:
I didn't have a tool so I took the camshafts off.
Click to expand...
I have to say, THAT is almost easier than fighting that tool sometimes. Maybe i just need more practice with it, but ive used it on three motors now, and the inside cylinders still aggrevate me to death. And I was simply trying to inventory on one of the motors, got ticked and just pulled the cams. I spent 30 minutes or so fighting with the tool, and it took me 10 to pull the cams, inventory and put the cams back in and time them.
 
i ended up pulling my cams too cause i didnt have the tool and i didnt know about the zip tie method....

but hey, whatever gets you there....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top