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anti-dive block off

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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Hi all,

Can someone please explain in detail what part inside the fork I need to drill out (and to what size) when I put a block off plate in place of the anti-dive unit? Pictures would be great. This is on an '82 GS1100E

Also, I am going to progressive springs, and I have read that these do the job of the anti-dive anyway, is this true? Or is there reason to keep the anti-dive with the progressive springs? I am sticking to 15W oil however because I only weigh 150 lbs. Do you agree this will be satisfactory or should I still go heavier with the oil?

Thanks for any comments,
Billy Miles
 
You can leave the anti-dive active with the Progressive springs. There are a couple of ways to disable it. First is to simply remove the lines to it and cap off where the banjo bolt fits. Just use the banjo bolts removed from the anti-dive for the calipers. You do this no matter how you disable it. You can also remove the upper half of the anti-dive units then cap off above the piston. Or remove the entire anti-dive unit and make block off plates for the bottom of the fork. You will lose oil if you remove the entire unit. Do it while you are rebuilding the fork. I don't believe any drilling is called for.
 
daveo in a previous thread said:
as a bit of a caveat to those that have removed the anti-dive or are contemplating it... They are also the fluid path for compression, if you just blank them off, you are preventing the proper amount of fluid to flow between the upper and lower fork leg segments (on either side of interior piston) when the legs compress and rebound. You must drill out the fluid cup equalizing holes to approximate the flow through the anti-dive valve when open, failure to do so WILL result in blowing a fork leg seal, inside out, literally, due to the high pressure generated by the lack of proper oil passage between compression and rebound segments of the fork leg. I found out the hard way and re-engineered accordingly
Click to expand...

I cannot find the parts he seems to be talking about on any diagrams. So if anyone can show them to me it would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Billy Miles
 
BTW, 15 weight should be plenty heavy. You don't want to go too heavy because you'll slow the damping down to the point where the springs won't get to do their job right.
 
thanks Billy, but does anyone know about the modification with the block off plate?
 
My 83 GS750ED has had the anti-dive blocked off for many years with no problems. Not only do you lose unsprung weight, you will get better brake feel and response as you delete a good deal of hydraulic plumbing. Anti-dive was an 80's fad that disappeared due to the fact that it was not a real solution. I did not drill anything-just had some blank aluminum plates fabricated by using the anti-dive unit as a template. If you make it the same thickness as the mounting flanges you can use the stock bolts to secure it. I would recommend either stiffer springs, pre-load adjusters, or both, to keep fork dive in check and stainless steel brake lines. You will be amazed at the difference. I took some digital photos but I am still trying to figure out how to add them. Good Luck and let me know if you want me to email you photos, Ed.
 
http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/gs750edbacktolife.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=3191

Photos show my anti-dive block off plates. Good Luck, Ed.
 
Heres the pics..the holes drilled are enlarged to 1/4 " in fluid cup(oil lock piece) at the bottom of the fork

site1168.jpg

site1169.jpg

site1170.jpg
 
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