• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Anti Dive Disconnect

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mercaholic
  • Start date Start date
M

Mercaholic

Guest
I know that this issue was addressed by the group some time ago.

Does anyone have the link?

thanks
 
Yes, archive is full of information on this subject…

Bottom line:

- Simplest method is to remove the brake line running to the anti-dive unit and plug the unit to keep dirt out.
- Cleanest method is to remove the entire anti-dive unit and fashion a plate covering the two holes in the fork. If you do this you need to cut a channel in the plate connecting the two holes so oil can pass between them or your fork will react like the anti-dive is activated all the time.
 
This is what I made...

.
anti-dive001.jpg

anti-dive002.jpg
 
Nessim how did that plate work out for you? last time i checked your other thread on this was before the site went down again. What measurement for the groove did you settle on ?
 
GQROD said:
Nessim how did that plate work out for you? last time i checked your other thread on this was before the site went down again. What measurement for the groove did you settle on ?
Click to expand...

Forks seems good. Brakes are very firm after disconnecting the anti-dive and suspension compliance seems normal - don't have many miles on the bike yet though.

I made the groove as wide as the holes and about 1/4" deep. Wanted the groove to flow as much fluid as the fork needed so made the groove as deep as I could with a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate.
 
So why disconnect the anti dive unit unless the things not working?

Suzuki mad
 
Disconnect

Disconnect

I was never happy with the feel of the front brake, even after I installed braided lines.

I looked at a bud's older GS750 without anti dive and the brake felt more firm with the original brake lines still in place.

I recall that when the '83 GS1100's were tested, the biggest concern was the sponge feel of the brake lever to the point that the writer's warned not to keep a finger between the lever and bar when managing a panic stop.
 
Nessism said:
Forks seems good. Brakes are very firm after disconnecting the anti-dive and suspension compliance seems normal - don't have many miles on the bike yet though.

I made the groove as wide as the holes and about 1/4" deep. Wanted the groove to flow as much fluid as the fork needed so made the groove as deep as I could with a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate.
Click to expand...


That's great! how did you seal the block of plate? and can you lock up your front brake now? also did you go with progressive springs? i'll have to replace my fork seals and i wanted to do this mod.
 
You don't need the block-off plate if you find a threaded bolt that fits in where the banjo bolt used to go. I had to use a cut-off wheel to trim the bolt down to where it fully seated in the anti-dive body.

Use the single banjo bolt from the anti-dive body to replace the double banjo bolt on the brake caliper. They're the same size, so it's really really easy.

gs1100e-42007-002.jpg


When asked why should one remove it...it's not needed if you use Progressive fork springs to firm up the front end.

~Adam
 
GQROD said:
That's great! how did you seal the block of plate? and can you lock up your front brake now? also did you go with progressive springs? i'll have to replace my fork seals and i wanted to do this mod.
Click to expand...

Don?t know about locking the front wheel, never tried?nor do I want to. The brake lever is firmer than before, particularly since I built Teflon/stainless brake lines, so I suppose it would be easier to lock than before?if one wanted to.

I didn?t get Progressive springs, cut down the stock springs instead to firm up the ride ? cheap mans method to increase the spring rate.

Regarding disabling the anti-dive verses removing it, I opted to remove it to clean up the look of the forks and simplify the fluid path ? no more spring loaded blow-off valves. I used a simple gasket to seal the plate ? no leaks so far?fingers crossed.
 
Nessism said:
Don’t know about locking the front wheel, never tried…nor do I want to. The brake lever is firmer than before, particularly since I built Teflon/stainless brake lines, so I suppose it would be easier to lock than before…if one wanted to.

I didn’t get Progressive springs, cut down the stock springs instead to firm up the ride – cheap mans method to increase the spring rate.

Regarding disabling the anti-dive verses removing it, I opted to remove it to clean up the look of the forks and simplify the fluid path – no more spring loaded blow-off valves. I used a simple gasket to seal the plate – no leaks so far…fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Thanks Nessim very helpful to know. One more thing how much did you cut from the original coil springs? i know on cars we usually would cut one coil off to ower the car about an inch to inch and a half. Bike springs i'm lost though!
 
Last edited:
Not sure how much but I didn’t cut enough off the first time, might have to go back and cut a little more.

Springs001.jpg

Springs002.jpg
 
Pics are really worth a thousand words, thanks. Looks like 2 inches, so i'll try that when the time comes i know i'll have to replace one of the fork tubes it's got a couple of rusty spots.
 
i have bypassed the anti dive on my GS, running UK spec 1100 katana forks.
my question is what effect, if any, would it have if i removed the plunger from the top half of the a/d unit, the one that is acted on by brake pressure. still plugging the hole on the top of the unit to stop the crap getting in?
i want to keep the units on the forks, rather than fitting a blanking plate
 
BTW I have a bunch of the bolts you need, so you can cap off the hole where the brake banjo bolt goes, it's a m10 1.0 pitch i believe it's about 15mm long or less.

I can sell folks some, since i had to buy a bunch to get 2. I'll make it cheap say 3 bucks with shipping.

AOD said:
You don't need the block-off plate if you find a threaded bolt that fits in where the banjo bolt used to go. I had to use a cut-off wheel to trim the bolt down to where it fully seated in the anti-dive body.

Use the single banjo bolt from the anti-dive body to replace the double banjo bolt on the brake caliper. They're the same size, so it's really really easy.

gs1100e-42007-002.jpg


When asked why should one remove it...it's not needed if you use Progressive fork springs to firm up the front end.

~Adam
Click to expand...
 
Does anyone make a stainless brake line kit for these bikes?
My brake lever goes halfway to the bar before theres any braking action.
I might be interested in a couple of those bolts if I can't source any locally.
 
how much difference does the antidive make anyway. have mine disconnected but toying with the idea of making a mechanical adjuster
 
I read somewhere on a site dedicated to GPz 750 mods that if you disable the anti dive you either need to stiffen the springs (much like Nessism has done) or replace with Progressives or a similar product. Reason being that the stock springs were designed to work with the andti dive to keep from bottoming the forks; without the A/D the springs were too soft. Made sense to me. Be sure the bushings are in good nick also because if they are worn the fluid will seep past them, effectively disabling the anti dive. Ask me how I know this.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top