anti dive on a '82 kat

[Guest]

I am putting race tech emulators and springs in the forks of the kat. This upgrade renders the anti dive obsolete but it requires free oil flow through both holes in the bottom leg. Right now the anti dive has a piston inside the part the oil will flow through. Should i remove that and the other innards of the anti dive so that oil flows freely or just put it back as is? The pages from race tech said to block off the brake line and put it back on but after looking at it i wonder if the flow would be restricted.

 

[Guest]

You can remove the anti dive and make block off plates. You must machine a passage in the plate to join the holes together of course, so you can still get oil flow. There was a guy on Ebay that sold nicely machined ones but they were $80.00 USD.

 

[posplayr]

If you are trying to retain the stock appearance, you can take the guts out of the anti dives and block the brake line at the caliper dual banjo connection. I did this by dremeling a small cup into the fiting where the small fluid port hole is. You then heat it up and melt a ball of solder. The brake pressure will try to force the ball down through the port which it is obviously to big so you have sealed it. Do not do this at the anti dive side.

i would also not use anything like jb weld because of the brake guild interaction snd since failure will loose you your frount brakes.

 

[Guest]

thanks. i will take the guts out and put back on the shock. The bike has custom paint so no worries about appearence. The overall bad assedness of the kat makes the funny looking anti dive a moot point.

 

[steve murdoch]

A Kat from the Prairies?
We will need pics as proof.

 

[Guest]

after looking closer at the antidive mechanism i ended up putting the guts back. It looks like the piston act as a seal for the fork oil. Where the two pieces of the anti dive come together (the space with the snap rings) there is a hole and if i pull all the guts out i will have fork oil on the floor.

here is a pic of a couple mean green machines steve

 

[Wallowgreen]

I did the solder ball thing Posplayr talks about on mine. Been a few years now, simple to do and still working well.

 

[Guest]

i am missing something here. there is a small hole facing the fork in the space between the brake line fluid and the fork fluid. If i take the guts out of the antidive this area fills with fork oil. From what my pea can gather you are dremelling and soldering on the brake side of the antidive? Please a more detailed description of the process.

 

[limeex2]

I just put a bolt in to replace the banjo bolt that holds the brake lines. Should I be doing something more or different? Mine have race tech stuff in them and they seem fine...?

 

[Guest]

once you have converted to cartridge emulators the oil goes through the new holes you drilled in the damper rod, the flow is now controlled by the emulator. Some will go through the anti dive, (but it comes back into the fork below the emulator ), or if blocked none will, doesn't matter really, the holes you drilled allow more than enough flow to the emulator valve.