anti-sieze

[jsandidge]

Are there any areas on a bike that anti-sieze should not be used when reinstalling bolts/screws? I'm using stainless on some of them, and I've heard to always use anti-sieze (with copper in it) when using stainless on aluminum.

 

[gustovh]

I haven't had any trouble with stainless yet, no antiseize.
V

 

[Agemax]

stainless and aluminium do not mix. you must use copper based antiseize when fitting s/s bolts into aluminium or they will seize solid and you will have all sorts of problems trying to remove them.

i would recommend using antiseize on pretty much any situation where metal to metal contact is apparent. it may not nessecarily require it but it makes dismantling a whole lot easier when it comes to taking stuff apart.

bear in mind, some bolts require thread lock of some kind, this will replace any kind of anti seize you use

 

[jsandidge]

How do I know which bolts require threadlock?

 

[Agemax]

How do I know which bolts require threadlock?

it will say in your service and repair manual. there is only a few, mainly in the engine itself.

 

[tkent02]

Galvanic corrosion is a bitch.

 

[850 Combat]

I've had stainless fasteners in the cases of my Commando for more than 30 years with no problem. I use the Permatex graphite in oil high temp anti seize. I use that anti seize on gaskets too. I don't like to scrape gaskets.

 

[Brendan W]

I use this stuff anywhere stainless and aluminium are in contact. Barium Chromate is the active ingredient iirc.

http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralac.pdf

Have been very patiently trying to open the inner bleed screw on the rear caliper for a week with penetrating oils, taps, raps ,bangs etc with no joy. Had resigned myself to snapping it off when I remembered acetone and atf. It's open now - magic.

 

[GSJim]

I thought copper anti-seize was not a good idea with stainless bolts into aluminum threads. Some web site (wish I could find it) said zinc or nickel based anti-seize works better.

Jim

 

[tkent02]

Maybe it's just me, but anti-seizing makes a lot more sense than un-seizing.

 

[DaveOR]

I thought copper anti-seize was not a good idea with stainless bolts into aluminum threads. Some web site (wish I could find it) said zinc or nickel based anti-seize works better.

Jim

I thought I had read that as well. So I've been putting nickel/zinc stuff on all my new bolts. /shrug

 

[Guest]

I do not understand it all but maybe this article will help.

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

 

[Guest]

I'm a strong believer in nickel based high temp anti sieze .
Been doing me goodly for many years now .

Cheers , Simon .

 

[Brendan W]

I do not understand it all but maybe this article will help.

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

Thanks for that. Sounds like they know what they are talking about.
So stainless fasteners in a relatively large aluminium part could be ok depending on local atmosphere and stress levels. I think a lot of people would have that experience.

 

[850 Combat]

No wonder I have not had a problem in 30 years. Its the "when bridged by an electrically conductive liquid" part. At work,most of our specifications require electrical isolation of pipe flange bolting when one flange is carbon steel and one flange is stainless steel and the fluid inside the pipe is a conductor. This is not required if the fluid is say, a petroleum product. A running motorcycle engine normally gets warm enough to dry out. We normally use nickle / silver thread lubricant to prevent galling of threads when the material is stainless to stainless.