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Any benefit from using Dynojet needles?

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
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UncleMike

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I've been told the Dynojet needles are superior to the stock needles and even set to a level that wouldn't richen the mixture, they will provide improved throttle-response and more.

Any truth to this? I've got some already set up in a set of slides/diaphragms. Shouldn't fourth slot from the bottom just mimic the stock settings?

Snake oil? Just a hassle with no actual gains?
 
I don't know how the height of the clip compares to stock needles, but the taper of the needle is definitely different.
THAT is what makes them better for some installations.


It is no problem at all to install stock main jets that are just about identical to DJ jets and get the same results on top end, but the difference in the needle is what makes the kits worth the price. Since the vast majority of street riding is either on the pilot or needle circuits, you need to concentrate your efforts there. Fortunately, DJ has done all the work. :clap:

.
 
I don't know how the height of the clip compares to stock needles, but the taper of the needle is definitely different.
THAT is what makes them better for some installations.


It is no problem at all to install stock main jets that are just about identical to DJ jets and get the same results on top end, but the difference in the needle is what makes the kits worth the price. Since the vast majority of street riding is either on the pilot or needle circuits, you need to concentrate your efforts there. Fortunately, DJ has done all the work. :clap:

.

So ... is that a "yes, installing the DJ needles seems like a great idea!"?

Pretend I'm an idiot, which shouldn't be hard.

If everything is running correctly currently, and I figured out what clip height would correspond with stock, this would improve the throttle response?
 
So ... is that a "yes, installing the DJ needles seems like a great idea!"?
Are you running pods and/or a header? :-k

If you are running both, there is no question, use the DJ needles. Clip height will be determined by looking at the factory recommendations or experimentation.

If you are just running pods, they might still help, but might not need to be as high.

If you are just running a header, might not need them at all, but they probably won't hurt.

.
 
The taper of the needle will allow gas to get by the needle jet sooner and with the drilled slides it will improve quickness of roll on throttle.
Using the stock needle with a drilled slide will created more of a on and off switch with the blunt end needle and you will have trouble getting rid of a slight stumble.
The blunt needle is made to coexsist with the bore of the air flow in the slide and airbox to give you a nice steady accel. Not mind blowing but consistant and steady.
 
No, everything in my setup would be stock except for these needles/slides/diaphragms that I took out of a rack that was set up with a stage 3 DJ kit.
 
If you're after performance go with the DJ.
If you're after better fuel milege go stock.
 
Are you running pods and/or a header? :-k

If you are running both, there is no question, use the DJ needles. Clip height will be determined by looking at the factory recommendations or experimentation.

If you are just running pods, they might still help, but might not need to be as high.

If you are just running a header, might not need them at all, but they probably won't hurt.

.

While you are in giving advice mood, what about V+H header and K+N filter in the stock airbox?

I have the Dynojet Kit with both Stage 1 and Stage 3 that I have been meaning to get around to installing but wasn't sure which jets to use. From my memory the kit comes with 2 sets of jets for each "Stage", sort of like a high and low for each stage. Oh yeah, it's an '80 GS1100.

Thanks.
 
While you are in giving advice mood, what about V+H header and K+N filter in the stock airbox?

I have the Dynojet Kit with both Stage 1 and Stage 3 that I have been meaning to get around to installing but wasn't sure which jets to use. From my memory the kit comes with 2 sets of jets for each "Stage", sort of like a high and low for each stage. Oh yeah, it's an '80 GS1100.

Thanks.
The DJ main jets in my opinion are too small for a stage 1 kit.
I would use the needle with the notch on the third down from the top and a 117.5 Mikuni main jet.
 
Okay, okay ... not completely "stock". I do have a K&N OEM replacement for the air filter in the stock airbox.
 
Spent a lot of time getting a 1981 1100E as good as I could, raising the needles, etc. Completely stock except for a K&N filter in the box. Ran OK, soft at low throttle, especially at low RPM. Put in a used set of Dynajet needles, with no other changes, third clip position from the top. Have not had a chance to experiment with other positions yet, did not drill the larger hole or change jets at all. It pulls a lot harder down low, easier to get going from a stop, but still a slight dead spot at the very beginning, if you start off too slowly it fails for a second. I think raising the needle one more clip position may fix it, haven't even had a chance to look at a spark plug yet.

And no idea about gas mileage, it was only fair before. ( 40 mpg )
 
I'm usually getting around 34-37mpg with the 1150, pretty much independent of the kind of riding I'm doing.

Got 41 once for half a tank when I was lazing around up at Moosehead, never really going over 55-60.
 
I have read on here (I think) that the stage one is a benefit to a stock or stock with K&N filter in the box.

This due to the taper on the needle?
 
I'm usually getting around 34-37mpg with the 1150, pretty much independent of the kind of riding I'm doing.

Got 41 once for half a tank when I was lazing around up at Moosehead, never really going over 55-60.

I rode with a guy on a GS 750 with 16 valve 1100 engine, not a stock engine, can't remember exactly what it had. Bigger displacement, Bandit carbs or something. Fast. He got a true 50 mpg that day, we were not riding all that slowly most of the time. I am a stickler for getting things tuned as perfectly as I can.
 
I rode with a guy on a GS 750 with 16 valve 1100 engine, not a stock engine, can't remember exactly what it had. Bigger displacement, Bandit carbs or something. Fast. He got a true 50 mpg that day, we were not riding all that slowly most of the time. I am a stickler for getting things tuned as perfectly as I can.

Me too, which is why it bugs me so much. I get mid-40's on my 750 without even trying, and that's even with it tuned rich at idle so it'll start more easily.

The 1150 is really confounding me. My last ditch effort will be a final carb synching after the last intake leak I found. After that, I'm going to just get drunk whenever I think about it. Should kill about the same amount of brain cells.
 
I have read on here (I think) that the stage one is a benefit to a stock or stock with K&N filter in the box.

This due to the taper on the needle?

Are the needles the same for the different stage kits?
I guess I don't even know which stage needles I have.
 
No, same needles.

Yeah, checking the pieces I pulled from the carbs against the parts list online from DynoJet, I've got everything that comes in the kit, except the jets for the stage 1. He must've installed the stage 3 and either lost or not given me the stage 1 jets with the bike. Only one needle comes in the kit.
 
If anyone is interested, I have the original design FactoryPro needles for the 1100 & 1150 carbs. Brand new, 60 bucks a set, shipped to you. Ray.
 
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