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any Ideas what's wrong with my sync?

  • Thread starter Thread starter castlekin
  • Start date Start date
And BassCliff, I have never seen the "mega-welcome", I see you reference it alot, but got no idea where or what it is. maybe I missed it in an email? Don't know, but if you could be friendly enough to point me in the right direction again I would be greatful.
 
ok i have a 80 gs850 and the "carb rebuild kit" dident have all the proper sized jets for my specific bike.
the air jets were all wrong. the only thing i used out of it were the float bowl gaskets, drain bolt gaskets, and the mix screw spring and o-ring
everything else if its the proper size needs to be totally disassembled ALL the o-rings need to be replaced and the carb bodys and jets need to be dipped in a carb cleaner bucket that can be found at your local auto parts supplier. The o-rings can be purchased at http://cycleorings.com/ And as far as the rubber bits like from the airbox to the carbs i recomend and others do as well http://www.z1enterprises.com/default.aspx if you dont see it on the site email them and they will track it down for you at a better price than your local motorcycle dealer

the mega welcome probably was here http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html
 
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Oh, it's the read me page on the website. Oops...

Also I have done all there except for the plug caps replacement.
 
hey man im not here busting any ones chops not my thing and everyone's repeating the same stuff over and over i know it gets annoying. i sat there trying to sync my carbs and it wasn't going well i sat down thought and re thought everything over swearing i did every damn thing and did it well. it turned out to be something as silly and stupid as one clamp wasn't tightened as far as it could go.

no one is here to ride you or berate you, just to help. remember you asked us.

if you truly dipped your carb body's for a full 25hrs cleaned everything well. replaced said o-rings, bench synced the carbs, sealed the airbox well, replaced the intake boots & o-rings (the rubber HAS to be soft), replaced the airbox boots (again soft rubber) have a true manometer motionpro, morgantune, or some other vacuum gauge there should be no problem syncing your carbs
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

And BassCliff, I have never seen the "mega-welcome", I see you reference it alot, but got no idea where or what it is. maybe I missed it in an email? Don't know, but if you could be friendly enough to point me in the right direction again I would be greatful.

Hi Mr. castlekin,

It seems I owe you a sincere apology.
Sorry56fdg.gif


Once in a while I will miss a newly joined member but I try to welcome everyone within their first few posts with this message:

Anyway, let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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there is only one idle screw on my 850 its in between carbs 2&3 on the airbox side

what your looking for is here in yellow

unledfzg.jpg
 
:confused:cmon no comments---bump

I really thought this would spark a heated debate---oh well Bump again
Sorry, I went riding over the weekend at the Brown County Rally. :p
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Well I guess since Basscliff is a god around here I'll stop trying to prove this is a good manometer. I still disagree and I thought my video would prove that it is very responsive and doesnt take too long---

Once I've got everything hooked up, I can sync my carbs in 5 minutes or less. I'm not sure I could do it that quickly by watching bubbles in four bottles. But that's just me.

One more thing; Some of us don't want to sync all four levels exactly the same. The manual calls for the inner two cylinders to draw slightly less than the outer two. It would be hard to gauge this by watching bubbles. If you do sync all four exactly level, then I'm sure the four bottles would be just as useful.
I agree with the 5 minutes. In fact, I have just taken steps to make the setup a five-minute job, too. Just installed the permanent brass adapters from Z1.

I can't afford the 110 dollars for a carb re-work just yet.
What do you mean the 110 dollars for a carb re-work?
carb kits are about 26 dollars a piece per carb. If I do it I do my best to do it right,strange as that sounds. I don't want to tear into a carb with out a kit there just in case.
If you want to do it right, you really want to AVOID those carb kits. About the only useful thing in them is the bowl gasket (even those are wrong some times), and you can get them for about $14 (for 4 gaskets) at Z1.

Actually, it will still cost you close to $110. It's $20 for a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip. It's currently $105.33 for the Morgan Carbtune. If you need bowl gaskets, it's $14. You need a set of o-rings from cycleorings.com. While you are at it, get the o-rings for the intake boots and the stainless hardware, too. Total is less than $25. OK grand total is $164, but you will be DONE with it by then.
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Thanks Steve, thats actually was a very helpful post. I will work on it, til then I am still riding, not much issue running except gas mileage. I am on a hard budget, so I gotta purchase a bit every pay period.
 
Okay, so I learned finally what hanging Idle means. I did a really crazy, stupid thing and sprayed around the boots to the carbs and the boots to the head with ether to see if I could find a leak. And the answer was NO. So I ordered from the local bike shop the o-rings to the air box and also to the head. Also, I ordered a new air filter and will pick up some weatherstripping for the air box.

So, for anyone that doesn't know what a hanging idle is, it is a idle that will adjust itself and anytime by itself, whether up or down, at it's own accord. This happens from a vacuum leak somewhere in the fuel system.
 
ok, I replaced the boots, I reworked the carbs, weatherstripped the airbox, got a new filter, and I re-synced the carbs. I get it sweet on the manometer and the I take off the adapters and put the screws in the boots and restart. Then, BAM! The bike is running like crap again.

Any Ideas? possibly bad adapters?

The bike is running really rich, I didn't look to close to the jets, is there a possibility that the PO or the PO before him had it set up for Pods?
 
ok, I replaced the boots, I reworked the carbs, weatherstripped the airbox, got a new filter, and I re-synced the carbs. I get it sweet on the manometer and the I take off the adapters and put the screws in the boots and restart. Then, BAM! The bike is running like crap again.

Any Ideas? possibly bad adapters?

The bike is running really rich, I didn't look to close to the jets, is there a possibility that the PO or the PO before him had it set up for Pods?

You probably had the fuel tank off to do the sync? If it runs poorly with the fuel tank back on you should have a look at your petcock, fuel and vacuum lines or a filter if you have one.
 
thanks matchless for that idea, all I did was brace the tank off the frame, so no that's not it.
 
well, it seems that the air filter was not locking into place, now the hanging idle is not happening, but the idle runs real low until warm. If I adjust it, then when the bike is nice a 10 miles down the road hot, I have to adjust down. Is this a normal behavior or is this something else I need to tweak on. And Steve I did all the replacement of o-rings and boot inspections.
 
Hi,

Yes, adjust the main idle knob when the bike is fully warmed up. Until the bike is warmed up it will want to idle low. That's what the "choke" is for. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Screw A

Screw A

How do you adjust the adjustment screw between carbs 2 and 3? I cant seem to get anything in there! The carbs are still on the bike with gas tank off. Please help:eek:
 
How do you adjust the adjustment screw between carbs 2 and 3? I cant seem to get anything in there! The carbs are still on the bike with gas tank off. Please help:eek:

You'd be better off to start your own thread about this. Make sure you include what bike you have since that will determine how the answer comes across (whether you have VM or CV carbs).

But, you will want a long screwdriver of the number one size I think (I just have it but don't remember the marking when I bought it).
 
Make sure you include what bike you have since that will determine how the answer comes across (whether you have VM or CV carbs).
To those of us that know, it's obvious that he has CV-type BS carbs. :cool:

The VM carbs don't have adjustment between the carbs, they are at the top of each carb. :D

.
 
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