I have tried the rattle can acrylic lacquer primer and the self etching stuff. It is ok as a beginning base that you are going to spray the Dupont specific primer over. The problem with using it is (for example) if they are both grey primers, it is very difficult to tell when you have sanded through the dupont prime and the rattle can primer is exposed. (you can use two different colr primers to remedy this problem) I find it is a lot less risky to just use the correct primer as per manufacturer. Generally, the manufacturer designated primer will produce clearly better results.
Your local supplier was not wrong. I guess it all depends on what quality, durability and cost you are trying to meet.
I am rather picky about the paint jobs I do on my bikes, and considering the small amounts of materials required for a bike, even though the materials are expensive, I dont consider cost as a determining factor.
I have found the Imron materials have a useful shelf life of about 5 years sitting on a shelf in my garage with the Florida heat.
I have never heard of "Bulldog". There is a plastics adhesion promotor sold for this purpose when using acrylic urethanes and lacquers. Any good paint store will have it as well as any automotive type paint store.
For my bike. I sand plastic with #80 grit by hand so as to leave it rough.
(its called tooth to the surface) Then I spray the plastic down with acetone to flush any contaminates, oil, etc off the surface and then spray the normal catalyzed primer for the Imron. I have never had any plastic part delaminate the paint coating or chip on the edges.
Uhhh..............there are a lot of things I dont know. Just tonight, I learned of Satchmo's girlfriend moving into the spare bedroom. LOL
Then too, a lot of the things I do know are archaic and inane and no one wants to hear about them.
Oh yeah, Imron doe not come in flat colors, only gloss. If you want a satin or a semi gloss, they sell a flattening agent that you add to the paint.
There is also an anti fisheye agent if you are having a problem with contamination causing pinholes, fisheyes etc. There are three catalysts, each is for a different temperature range. There are accelerators for the catalysts if you are painting in low temp conditions or dusty conditions and they will reduce tack time to minimize dust imperfections. You may also tailor your paint mix for most any condition you may have as well as your natural motion with a spray gun (basically how you tend to move about)
Yeah, I know, it sounds strange to tailor a paint system to a persons movement habits. LOLs
I can also tell you how to lay a pattern and what you are looking for when you do it, how to do test patches and give you an idea of gun settings, pressures for viscosities, etc and general setup and prep as you go if you would like.
Earl
P.S. there are no special additive for painting in low light conditions. If you paint in the dark, you're on your own.
P.S. Yes, you can paint the entire frame on a motorcycle with a spray gun without removing the engine, not mask off the engine, and not get any overspray on the engine. LOL (Did that with the rebuild of the 1100 because by myself, I cant install the engine without scratching a tube somewhere.
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I called a local supplier today and they told me I could use rattle-can self-etching primer, then spray the other primer over the top with no ill effects. Are they wrong, or were you not talking about the self-etching stuff?
They also said to use something called Bulldog over the plastic parts. Do you know anything about that?
Thanks for the info Earl. Is there anything you don't know? :lol: :wink:[/quote]
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