Anyone actually use one of the Chinese master cylinders off ebay?

[PPPPPP42]

My master cylinder on my project 81 GS450L is corroded beyond repair.
I see if you are willing to get a no name one straight from China its only $21.88 with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GN12...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd084f26f&vxp=mtr
There are American sellers too but they want twice as much for the same part and I can wait.
I would also get a black clutch lever from parts unlimited so the levers match, those are $9.27 with free shipping so its still dirt cheap to go this way. It would also take a quick change of the brake light switch wires to spade connectors (with liquid electrical tape).

My only other option would be to find a stock one but everyone seems to think the corroded pieces of crap are worth $50 and then I would need a new complete reservoir (the all seem to be shot) and a rebuild kit. Since just the kit costs what that other master cylinder does that sounds more appealing.
Also IF I was willing to rebuild a stock one should I give up on the oddball round pot style that came on it and go with the rectangle pot ones that seem much more common? I'm not sure what all interchanges but I get the impression that anything for a 7/8" bar with the correct banjo and mirror socket thread will work.

 

[LarryJ]

Suzuki is even using Chinese manufacturing facilities these days. Justst saw a set of brand new gs250's that the county college bought, that were manufactured in China. College using them for a rider training course. They cannot be registered in this country, but could be purchased for instructional use. They hadn't been processed through DOT certification. But they look just like the GS's built important the 80's!

 

[posplayr]

My master cylinder on my project 81 GS450L is corroded beyond repair.
I see if you are willing to get a no name one straight from China its only $21.88 with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GN12...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd084f26f&vxp=mtr
There are American sellers too but they want twice as much for the same part and I can wait.
I would also get a black clutch lever from parts unlimited so the levers match, those are $9.27 with free shipping so its still dirt cheap to go this way. It would also take a quick change of the brake light switch wires to spade connectors (with liquid electrical tape).

My only other option would be to find a stock one but everyone seems to think the corroded pieces of crap are worth $50 and then I would need a new complete reservoir (the all seem to be shot) and a rebuild kit. Since just the kit costs what that other master cylinder does that sounds more appealing.
Also IF I was willing to rebuild a stock one should I give up on the oddball round pot style that came on it and go with the rectangle pot ones that seem much more common? I'm not sure what all interchanges but I get the impression that anything for a 7/8" bar with the correct banjo and mirror socket thread will work.

The feedback on the seller is pretty good. I have used an aftermarket master for some time now so I would not let that alone dissuade you.have you checked for for feedback from other buyers of the same or similar products?

 

[1_v8_merc]

But it's still perfectly unacceptable to use any aftermarket made in Japan!
Makes perfect sense right.....

 

[Guest]

I got mine from Mikes XS. Yeah it was dearer but it's a reputable company and they sell rebuild kits for them as well.

No guarantee it's not made in China (I didn't look) but I did want some recourse in case something went awry or it was faulty etc.

If you do go there, remember to check the mirror mounts... I didn't and mine has the "Yamaha" mirror mount meaning it's a left hand thread.

 

[bluewool]

I have a genuine chinese one from mikesXS, it works fine.

 

[salty_monk]

The newer KLR 650 Master would make a good alternative & the price on Ebay is usually similar...

 

[PPPPPP42]

I don't see any reason to get the Yamaha one from Mikes XS when these are available for cheaper. They have the correct thread for the mirror and the brake line. For $20 you don't F around rebuilding these, you throw them away and put another one on.

Its not the China part necessarily that concerns me since every damn thing is made there anyways, its the complete lack of actual brand name making me wonder about quality control. I once helped someone fix a tractor that had some American brand on it but was clearly imported complete from Jiang Dong province (everything in chinese on it) and used such cheap metal that things like the control levers started shearing off and had to be fixed or replaced. It did work fine in general I suppose though.

Ideally I want to get a correct Suzuki one but its looking like whats left out there is basically corroded crap at comical prices at this point.
Anyone have any interchange info for these? I know mine had a round reservoir and most seem to be rectangle whether it be earlier or later ones. Was this an oddity of the '81 450L?
Anyone happen to have a good core that isn't corroded or stuck?

 

[eil]

Well, if you're looking to buy a used Suzuki master cylinder from someone here, try posting in the Parts Wanted forum.

I believe the reason you're not getting much of a response in regard to your original question is because not many of us here have actually tried the aftermarket eBay ones. Me personally, I'd be hesitant to use an aftermarket MC when the front brakes are easily the one thing on the whole entire bike that you always want to work, 100% of the time, no exceptions. OEMs usually design their braking systems rather well because they don't want their latest model to be suddenly famous for killing people. It's not good for business.

When you say yours is corroded beyond repair... that would be pretty unusual. These are made of aluminum and can almost always be cleaned up just fine. The only reason you'd have to toss one is if it's cracked or broken, the piston bore is scratched or pitted, or the banjo bolt hole is stripped.

If you want an OEM master cylinder (i.e., a known quantity), you may have to spend a bit. Believe me, I understand wanting to save money. I paid $250 for my bike and have more than quadrupled that just in parts for getting it back on the road. (A very sizeable chunk of that was on brakes alone.) And I'm still not quite done. My advice is: cheap out on the seat, the grips, the side covers, or anything cosmetic if you're on a budget. But not the brakes.

 

[PPPPPP42]

Its pretty badly corroded actually, it looks like it was left to sit with water in it and is jammed full of white powder and pitted (at least it seems pitted but its too plugged to tell). The right carb was the same way and was unrepairable (set of used carbs already on the way) The front brake hose was rusted on the inside and outside of the end fittings (will replace with braided) and the only fluid left in the system was a tiny bit in the caliper. The caliper is rebuildable though since the aluminum is cruddy inside but not pitted, and the piston which is actually rust pitted is still available with the seals for only about $25.
This bike sat for at least 13 years, much of it outside I think.
This is the master cylinder I have now:
http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/SUZUKI/1981/GS450L/MASTER-CYLINDER-%28MODEL-T
But this one seems much more common and seems interchangable as a whole unit:
http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/SUZUKI/1981/GS450L/MASTER-CYLINDER-(MODEL-Z)
The second one is an 82 model I think (T is 80 and Z is 82?) The reservoirs literally disintegrate on the first type with UV rays over time, the second appears much more durable with the integrated reservoir body.
Bother, I only paid $200 for the bike which left me with $1000 to fix it up, I can just wait till a good OEM one comes along, I think I'll look for the 82 version (or whatever that is). At least the engine and tranny seem good and only have 13k on them.
Edit: what master cylinder rebuild kits are safe to use? I see a lot of K&L stuff out there.

 

[salty_monk]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-KAWASA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3a54f067&vxp=mtr

Come up cheaper than this from time to time too....

 

[salty_monk]

Pinwall is a good seller...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Kawasaki...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec10242c2&vxp=mtr

From a professional perspective I can tell you that quality out of Ningbo in general is quite variable... I wouldn't expect a high quality finish on it for sure.

 

[Guest]

Pinwall is a good seller...

+1 on that, got my GSXR left control block from them.

There is one other reason you might consider a different to stock MC...

I went down 1mm in piston bore size (stock is 14mm) which gave me a little more lever travel but the feel is much improved over the stock lever which tended to be a little wooden. It also give your squeeze a little more power too.

 

[PPPPPP42]

Just an update, on the advice of Eil I gave the master cylinder I have another look, it was pitted on the main surface under the reservior but when I finally managed to pry out the snap ring and hammer the piston out with a rod I found the cylinder bore is ok and all the reservoir surfaces were fairly well protected by the seals sitting on them so all important surfaces are not pitted.
It does need basically a new everything though, as all hardware is rusted (one bolt broke off but I got it out) and all the rubber and plastic is trash.
Are K&L rebuild kits OE quality?
Thanks.

 

[eil]

Quality varies with the K&L kits. I think someone bought one not too long ago and found that the piston and seals in the kit looked nothing like what he pulled out of his MC and didn't even fit. I'd just go with the OEM rebuild kit. You're looking at ordering the "piston and cup set", probably a new reservoir based on your description of the condition of the thing, and the o-ring between the reservoir and the MC. Possibly a new diaphragm, cap seal, and cap as well? Bolts and stuff you may be able to source locally at a hardware store. Not sure about the one that goes through the lever, though.

I tried to reuse my reservoir, but noticed last night that it's seeping brake fluid around the bottom, even after I replaced the o-ring underneath. So I guess I'll need a new one of those soonish.

Best advice I can offer when rebuilding the brake stuff is make absolutely certain that you get all the crusty old buildup cleaned out. Particularly inside the grooves where the seals go.

 

[salty_monk]

I would use OE only for brake sealing parts.

 

[Guest]

I'd go genuine also, the parts are available and quite inexpensive.

And like the others have said, one place I didn't want to compromise was the front brake... a little too critical for that IMO...

 

[PPPPPP42]

Right, OEM again then. Looks like about $110 (compared several sites) for all the parts I need since I basically can only reuse the aluminum housing and that aluminum part that clamps it to the bar. Lets hope this works out.
Oddly enough the only parts not available are the 2 little screws that sit inside the reservoir and hold it to the main housing, hardware store for those I guess. Mine are solid corrosion as I recall.
Sometimes its a real irritation being in a country that uses a backwards measuring system working on a bike from a country that doesn't.