Anyone ever use these wire connectors?

[1978GS750E]

Wondering if anyone has ever used these wire connectors? Supposed to have a low-temp solder inside of the heat shrink tubing, along with an adhesive???

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solder-Sea...037707&hash=item5d9a3cf426:g:BZgAAOSw8hpeC56c

If so, how did you like them? Are they suitable for motorcycle use?

 

[Grimly]

Yes, I've used them and they've not given me any trouble yet, but they've only been in a couple of years, so early days.

 

[Steve]

I was visiting a friend who had a few of them to use for that day's project. They are OK, but WOW, ... 11.4 cents a piece.

I can only think of a few times where they might work better than the solder and heat-shrink method that I have used for years. You would also have a problem when you run low and don't have enough to finish the job. You can't just run down to the auto parts store to get more.

.

 

[open1mind]

Heres a pretty good demo that sold me on them..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wh5gM8GM70
I use a very small torch and not a heat gun to keep the heat more focused in tight spaces.

So far no trouble- used them mostly on my old Brit bikes.

Check Amazon, not just ebay- you might be able to get a better selection and price

Most of the traditionalists (aka- guys that seem to know what they are doing) dismiss them as over complicated and suggest that old school solder is the only way to go. I am using them to make up for a lack of skill, with some success

 

[posplayr]

I have never used these but can say depending upon your soldering skills these could be very useful. For example, There are times when you have to connect two short wires tucked up into so tight space. Or worse there more than ones cut in a tight space. It can be difficult to twist the wires together and solder. These make the initial mechanical connection much easier and you don’t have to drag out the soldering station to complete the job.

In terms of time , finished results theses have a lot of Benefits especially working in tight quarters. If you can build something on the bench then there is not much need.

if you are cheap and want a clean splice, you can take the normal cheap automotive grade connectors and but off the crimp section to make half of a Butt connector. This is pretty easy to crimp/solder/heat shrink, especially when you have some large gauge wire that doesn’t twist easy.

 

[Gorminrider]

They look handy to me if you want a quick solder connection... But do be careful the wires are shiny and very clean-it's good they are clear vinyl so you can see if the solder flows over the copper...(grimlys tip per dipping in vinegar and salt flushed with baking soda+water could do for this if the copper is discoloured )
Don't know why anybody would say they were complicated....doing a union splice and soldering in a small space with short wire ends is not all that easy! the strands can stick up and pierce your heatshrink tubing etc etc...
Those little torches are very handy too..the only caution I'd have is it takes a little caution to not overheat the wire.

 

[abaton6]

I have these in my shop. They work great. No issues.

 

[salty_monk]

I've bought some recently to have a try with... When I travel I take a few Posi-tite & Posi-tap fixings for emergency use.

They are even more expensive but work really well. The Posi taps are actually a great permanent way of tapping into a switched circuit to trigger a relay. I've had one fitted on the skunk for close to 10 years. https://www.posi-products.com/positite.html

 

[eil]

I used these types of connectors working on avionics in the Air Force. (Not the ones from eBay, obviously.)

The heat from a heat gun melts the solder, shrinks the tube, and melts the plastic seals on each end. In that order. All in one go.

They're very cool but in my own shop, solder and heat shrink is almost as easy and much, much cheaper.

 

[bwringer]

Getting the solder to melt before the plastic melts through can be tricky, especially if you're working in a confined area (which is all the time...).

Also, a solder that melts at such a low temperature is not going to be appropriate for some connections, like stator wires. These carry a lot of current and the connections are very close to the engine.

Lately, I've been very pleased with the glue lined waterproof heat shrink crimp connectors -- you need a high-quality crimper with the correct die specifically for heat shrink connectors (using a normal insulated terminal crimper will damage the heat shrink plastic), but these are the absolute cat's patoot in a lot of situations.

 

[Steve]

I've bought some recently to have a try with... When I travel I take a few Posi-tite & Posi-tap fixings for emergency use.

Having a few "for emergency use" might make sense, because no tools are needed (beyond the ability to strip a wire), but they are way too expensive for general use in the shop.

I took a look at their website and found that they average about a buck a piece.

Yeah, buying them in larger quanties cuts that down a bit, but it's still $35 for a 45-piece pack of connectors, or even $140 for a 134-piece "pro installer assortment". The watertight connectors are even more, $87.50 for a 40-piece assortment of connectors.

They are nice, but not THAT nice.

.

 

[Gorminrider]

Getting the solder to melt before the plastic melts through can be tricky, especially if you're working in a confined area (which is all the time...).

Also, a solder that melts at such a low temperature is not going to be appropriate for some connections, like stator wires. These carry a lot of current and the connections are very close to the engine.

Lately, I've been very pleased with the glue lined waterproof heat shrink crimp connectors -- you need a high-quality crimper with the correct die specifically for heat shrink connectors (using a normal insulated terminal crimper will damage the heat shrink plastic), but these are the absolute cat's patoot in a lot of situations.

SOMEHOW, You remind me of the seals I've used for irrigation setups...and I have some much smaller used by telephone line-men, I think..These are little "snap-together" with a fancy grease inside...not intended to solder being for outdoor use but quite reliable and they can be taken apart too.

 

[wyly]

I was skeptical but I gave it a try, awesome.

Slide on, twist wires together, slide over wire connection, lighter/heat, done. Quick and easy, solid connection.

Not the least expensive option but I don't do electrical often so cost isn't an issue.

 

[bwringer]

SOMEHOW, You remind me of the seals I've used for irrigation setups...and I have some much smaller used by telephone line-men, I think..These are little "snap-together" with a fancy grease inside...not intended to solder being for outdoor use but quite reliable and they can be taken apart too.

Those "snap-together" connectors should never be used on vehicles, moving machinery, or anywhere there's vibration. Scotchlok is the most common brand name, and even through they're often supplied for accessory wiring, they are evil and wrong for vehicles.

Dyna ignitions, for example, come with Scotchloks in the kit, which is just a mind-bogglingly awful idea. They're very cheap, they're easy and fast, but are guaranteed to fail. I don't know why Dyna does this.

 

[salty_monk]

Yeah the Posi products are the only non solder splices I'll use...

I just used a couple of the ones the thread is about the other day, very simple. One thing I'd say is a bit awkward on a short wire (as you need a lot of space one side to slide it on to twist the wires before you slide it back)...

I melted it with a harbor freight heat gun.

 

[wyly]

I had seen them in my favorite parts source before and thought it was gimicky and I bought what I was familiar with. That was last year, this winter I was tracking down an electrical issue and one of the tried true types had failed. So I gave the new type a try, a couple minutes getting the wires prepared a few seconds with a lighter and it was done and I'm converted.

 

[Gorminrider]

Those "snap-together" connectors should never be used on vehicles, moving machinery, or anywhere there's vibration. Scotchlok is the most common brand name, and even through they're often supplied for accessory wiring, they are evil and wrong for vehicles.

Dyna ignitions, for example, come with Scotchloks in the kit, which is just a mind-bogglingly awful idea. They're very cheap, they're easy and fast, but are guaranteed to fail. I don't know why Dyna does this.

Ah so! ..yes.."scotchlock" looks like the things I was musing on...Sounds like you've tried them!

 

[Spyder]

I think we have ALL had a bad encounter with those stupid Scotchlok's. I'm pretty sure the instant you lock them shut, they start the corrosion process. Almost every vehicle I have ever bought with a trailer hitch, has had these hacked into the tail & brake light harness.
I typically use the bare crimps with some shrink wrap. Hasn't failed me yet.

Cost might be the only reason I don't use these solder ones. I'm a cheap bastard when it comes to this stuff...