R
RJ
Guest
Well the title kinda says it all. I'd like to eventually pull the engine for paint and cleanup but can't seem to figure out a good way to do it by myself. Engine weighs more than the wife so she's no help!
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P
p_s
Guest
Yes. But mine weighs just a little less than yours.
T
tone
Guest
yep i do it on my own all the time & i'm only a skinny guy
If the bike is staying together apart from pulling the engine i undo all the bolts etc with a jack & a bit of wood under the sump, jack it up & wriggle it out the side onto a beer crate, its pretty easy to move from there but the first bit can be a struggle till you've done it a few times
If the bike is getting a complete strip down, i remove everything exept the engine & swingarm while its on a paddock stand & axle stands then lower it to the floor, undo the engine bolts, roll the whole lot on its side & pick the frame off the engine
hope that helps
If the bike is staying together apart from pulling the engine i undo all the bolts etc with a jack & a bit of wood under the sump, jack it up & wriggle it out the side onto a beer crate, its pretty easy to move from there but the first bit can be a struggle till you've done it a few times
If the bike is getting a complete strip down, i remove everything exept the engine & swingarm while its on a paddock stand & axle stands then lower it to the floor, undo the engine bolts, roll the whole lot on its side & pick the frame off the engine
hope that helps
8
8trackmind
Guest
With the bike stripped, (no bodywork, no carbs, no oil) lay the bike on it's side, a flat car tire make a great engine landing pad.
Take the last couple bolts out ('cause you've already got 'em loose,) pull the bike up off the engine.
Watch the fins, they break easy.
Take the last couple bolts out ('cause you've already got 'em loose,) pull the bike up off the engine.
Watch the fins, they break easy.
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
Just did it. Thought about the on the side method, but I was able to Conan it out through the right side. It's heavy, but not THAT heavy.
8
8trackmind
Guest
I've used the "Conan" (AKA "Hulk Smash") method a couple of times by myself to remove and reinstall engines, but I'm big and probably stupid. Removal's not that bad, but the first time I reinstalled an engine by myself, I cried for my momma before it was all over.
The old tire method is best. And pay attention to which side the engine is designed to come out on. It's important.... :-\\\
The old tire method is best. And pay attention to which side the engine is designed to come out on. It's important.... :-\\\
N
Newbee
Guest
Just did my first one...
Just did my first one...
Pulled carbs,breather cover, chain and of course all engine mounts\bolts. Jacked up the engine and wrestled it out the right side and flopped on to a 4 inch thick piece of construction type foam block.
Just did my first one...
Pulled carbs,breather cover, chain and of course all engine mounts\bolts. Jacked up the engine and wrestled it out the right side and flopped on to a 4 inch thick piece of construction type foam block.
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
Yeah gonna get some help for the return trip.
R
Richharr
Guest
done it on a couple of bikes, 01 gsxr750, 05zx6r, 79 xlch sportster, 2 gs450s, ktm525exc, rm125. un-bolt and man-up, not the easiest but it works. wear gloves
Damn, it's those little details that make all the difference in the amount of blood you lose...
S
Suzuki_Don
Guest
+1 from me on that too Brian. Small details I always forget until the claret starts to flow.
G
Guest
Guest
Only thing I'll add is to get a 4 wheel dolly or small pallet to slide the motor onto after you get it out of the frame. This helps keep you're move almost level and makes it easier to move around the shop.
J
jmlcolorado
Guest
One thing i found helpfull on my 1000 is to take the cam breather tube and cap off the top first. When i pulled mine i kept getting it wedged in there and having that cap off the top of the engine bought me an inch that help a ton!
J
jmlcolorado
Guest
Also keep in mind you gotta put it back in too! When reinstalling (i know this is about removal but whatever... ) 
i wrap my frame tubes with rags and tape em on good. That way when your motor scrapes its happy ass across the frame, it wont ruin the paint.
I just pulled mine out with the "Hulk Punch" method but ive done MAJOR mode to the frame so its all going to get repainted anyways. Once i go to stab it back in, ill buy a case of beer and invite the neighbor over for a "BBQ" .......but little does he know.
Just make sure you dont clear the case of beer BEFORE you jimmy the engine back in.
i wrap my frame tubes with rags and tape em on good. That way when your motor scrapes its happy ass across the frame, it wont ruin the paint. I just pulled mine out with the "Hulk Punch" method but ive done MAJOR mode to the frame so its all going to get repainted anyways. Once i go to stab it back in, ill buy a case of beer and invite the neighbor over for a "BBQ" .......but little does he know.
Just make sure you dont clear the case of beer BEFORE you jimmy the engine back in.
R
rudy
Guest
Not to shoot all you guys down, but there's an easier way to do it. Levers, hydraulics, and wheels. Most of us have a hydraulic bike lift, or know someone who will lend one for an afternoon. I guess a tranny lift would work in a pinch too, or modify a regular floor jack to have a little bigger lifting pad. The important part is that it needs wheels and a lifting arm.
I'll use the bike lift for my illustration:
Ok, what you want to do is get the engine ready to come out. Carbs, exhaust, chain, breather cap, all that nice stuff. Put it up on the center stand (or paddock stands) and undo the majority of the mounting bolts as well. Leave two easy ones, usually the back one and front one are easiest.
Get your lift and bring it in from the right (GS1000 & 750, dunno about the rest). Put a few pieces of old 2x4, that you should have laying around anyway, on the lift under the oil pan. Lift it up slightly, enough to pull the remaining bolts out. (If you don't want your frame scratched, tape rags or cardboard or whatever to the frame where you're taking the engine out.) A helping hand is nice to keep the engine steady as it may wiggle around a bit as you remove the mounting bolts, but its not a must.
With the rest of the bolts out, pump the lift up until the cam cover is about a 1/2" away from the top tube, make sure everything will clear, wheel that hassie on out until your wood hits the inside of the frame. (This is where the cardboard comes in) Set the engine down on the frame while holding the engine (the further you bring it out the first time, the easier it is to hold), push the lift back in a bit and lift again and wheel it out some more. The engine should now be sitting just past it's halfway mark.
Lower the lift, bring the wood to the outside of the frame and lift the engine again, wheel it all the way out and you're done! :dancing: It's that easy.
Once you've done it once or twice you can swap an engine in about 5 minutes with little or no effort. It's honestly just as easy to remove as it is to install, and with the lift there already, it makes the mounting bolt install that much easier.
Just so you guys know, I've tried the lay down method in and out. Have also tried the Hulk method, complete with getting very angry with pinched and bleeding fingers and a sore back. If you have a lift, it's not worth the aggravation to do it any other way. I showed this method to a buddy of mine and he just about fell over he couldn't believe how easy and quick it was.
I'll use the bike lift for my illustration:
Ok, what you want to do is get the engine ready to come out. Carbs, exhaust, chain, breather cap, all that nice stuff. Put it up on the center stand (or paddock stands) and undo the majority of the mounting bolts as well. Leave two easy ones, usually the back one and front one are easiest.
Get your lift and bring it in from the right (GS1000 & 750, dunno about the rest). Put a few pieces of old 2x4, that you should have laying around anyway, on the lift under the oil pan. Lift it up slightly, enough to pull the remaining bolts out. (If you don't want your frame scratched, tape rags or cardboard or whatever to the frame where you're taking the engine out.) A helping hand is nice to keep the engine steady as it may wiggle around a bit as you remove the mounting bolts, but its not a must.
With the rest of the bolts out, pump the lift up until the cam cover is about a 1/2" away from the top tube, make sure everything will clear, wheel that hassie on out until your wood hits the inside of the frame. (This is where the cardboard comes in) Set the engine down on the frame while holding the engine (the further you bring it out the first time, the easier it is to hold), push the lift back in a bit and lift again and wheel it out some more. The engine should now be sitting just past it's halfway mark.
Lower the lift, bring the wood to the outside of the frame and lift the engine again, wheel it all the way out and you're done! :dancing: It's that easy.
Once you've done it once or twice you can swap an engine in about 5 minutes with little or no effort. It's honestly just as easy to remove as it is to install, and with the lift there already, it makes the mounting bolt install that much easier.
Just so you guys know, I've tried the lay down method in and out. Have also tried the Hulk method, complete with getting very angry with pinched and bleeding fingers and a sore back. If you have a lift, it's not worth the aggravation to do it any other way. I showed this method to a buddy of mine and he just about fell over he couldn't believe how easy and quick it was.
L
LarryA_Texas
Guest
Well, sure. If you want to use TOOLS.
(secretly envious of your ingenuity) :clap:
Thanks for the tip. I no longer fear engine removal...as much.
P
Paul_IOFJS
Guest
Step-by-step engine removal
Step-by-step engine removal
Step-by-step engine removal
Step 1: stop at store on way home from work.
Step 2: purchase 12 pack of beer (be it lager or ale, as long as it's something your friends like)
Step 3: knock on neighbor's door and invite him over to enjoy said beer
Step 4: suddenly "remember" that you need help removing engine from bike (or car, or truck, or boat, etc.):-\\\
Step 5: using two-man hulk method remove said engine
Step 6: enjoy said beer with said neighbor while griping about said engine removal.
See, that wasn't so hard, was it?
Paul
Step-by-step engine removal
Step-by-step engine removal
Step 1: stop at store on way home from work.
Step 2: purchase 12 pack of beer (be it lager or ale, as long as it's something your friends like)
Step 3: knock on neighbor's door and invite him over to enjoy said beer
Step 4: suddenly "remember" that you need help removing engine from bike (or car, or truck, or boat, etc.):-\\\
Step 5: using two-man hulk method remove said engine
Step 6: enjoy said beer with said neighbor while griping about said engine removal.
See, that wasn't so hard, was it?
Paul
M
madjack57754
Guest
Now for something completely different.
I use a sling wraped around the base of the cylinders and a come-a-long atached to a handy garage rafter. Undo the mounts, take the top breather off then start lifting. Wiggle and shake the sling as you lift and the lump will start turning then tips forwardas the center of gravity changes. Slowly freeing itself from the cradle. Roll the chassis away and there you go no muss, no fuss. Best of all your not out of breath and the skin on the knuckles is still all intact
I use a sling wraped around the base of the cylinders and a come-a-long atached to a handy garage rafter. Undo the mounts, take the top breather off then start lifting. Wiggle and shake the sling as you lift and the lump will start turning then tips forwardas the center of gravity changes. Slowly freeing itself from the cradle. Roll the chassis away and there you go no muss, no fuss. Best of all your not out of breath and the skin on the knuckles is still all intact
