Arrrg!! Oil filter case bolts.

[Anonymous]

We'll apparently I tightened the bolts too much. The upper right bolt broke off while I was riding, spilling at least a quart of oil before I got home. My bike is a 80 GS850L. Are there any tricks in getting this bolt out? It broke off flush with the block. Also, can I get one of these bolts at the local hardware store or is it a special thread? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Alan Schlosser]

I would believe it's the same setup as my 1100. Three studs with the acorn nuts. I had to replace one of mine and the dealer had them for a couple of bucks. Always nice to get the right part the first time. The part numbers I have are 01421-06208 stud (6x20mm) and 08313-1106 nut. You should be able to use an easy out on the broken stud.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Alan. Called the dealer, and it looks like they had the part, and a buddy of mine has an easy out. It will probably be more expensive buying the parts at the dealer, but at least it will be done right. It was tempting to just go over to the hardware store and buy a bolt for it though, since I didn't see the reason why they used a stem.

 

[Jethro]

Are there any tricks in getting this bolt out?

Have some Valium and copious amounts of alchohol nearby, you're gonna want it to cool you down after the job is done. What a PITA it is to deal with broken stud bolts. Just be happy they aren't your exhaust manifold bolts!

 

[pidgey]

Yeah, those three bolts are a real pain. Every time I do an oil change, I hear them calling out ........ STRIP ME !! STRIP ME !!

 

[Anonymous]

Only enough tension is required so as to seat the rubber "O" ring. Beyond that, nothing is gained. Try using a nutdriver instead of a wrench.

 

[pidgey]

Only enough tension is required so as to seat the rubber "O" ring. Beyond that, nothing is gained. Try using a nutdriver instead of a wrench.

Yeah, you're right. They only require, I believe 5 - 7 ft/lbs torque.

 

[Alan Schlosser]

I believe the reason they use the studs is to line up the filter cover so it goes straight on. Then you can hold it in place and spin on the acorn nuts. The bike that I bought had two missing and the guy used metric bolts. I took them out and used the studs. I put some Loctite red on the engine side of the stud and ran them in with the nut on the end until they seated. Then, while carefully holding the stud, backed the nut off.
P.S. Don't forget the washer so the nut doesn't bottom out when you install the cover.

 

[bwringer]

I found new 6mm studs at my local Ace hardware store and installed them as outlined above.

I also scored three stainless steel nuts with the "anti-loosening" nylon inserts. That way, I know they're not going to back out on me and the temptation to over-tighten is removed.

I also prefer being able to see the stud as I'm tightening the nut, in case it wants to try to strip or pull out.

 

[gremlin]

some times you can get lucky and use a cut off wheel and slot the stud and a flat blade screew driver will back it out.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I think the nylock nuts will do more harm than good, it will want to unscrew the stud all the time . Just use the OEM washers & acorn nut

 

[AOD]

I wish i could get over having to feel sequre by tightening bolts and nuts to TIGHT.

i am changing the oil and filter on my GS tonight...pray for me to be gentle!

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

90 % of the work I do on my bike I use a 1/4" socket set, less likley to over tighten bolts

 

[Anonymous]

I wish i could get over having to feel sequre by tightening bolts and nuts to TIGHT.

There is an easy way to avoid this problem (which I do, as well) - use a torque wrench for anything you can get a torque number for. I am always amazed by how little force is required to properly torque many of the smaller fasteners on our bikes, and you don't risk twisting one off this way.

Mark