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At a loss?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scorpion
  • Start date Start date
S

Scorpion

Guest
Well here it goes I have been working on the carbs but I kinda shifted to the wiring. For some reason I don't know why my bike won't start, the battery is fully charged and all my fuses are good but the only thing that is working is the gauge lights, no head lights turn signals horn ignition, it's the weirdest thing iv seen
 
Just because the fuses "look" good don't mean they are. Take a power light and check for power on both sides of the fuses when power is turned on. Then start looking at your connections and make sure they are still okay.
 
Scorpion said:
Well here it goes I have been working on the carbs but I kinda shifted to the wiring. For some reason I don't know why my bike won't start, the battery is fully charged and all my fuses are good but the only thing that is working is the gauge lights, no head lights turn signals horn ignition, it's the weirdest thing iv seen
Click to expand...

What model/year? The glass fuses or the blade fuses?

YOu have a volt meter? Test probe light?

You have a scehematic?

Well, if the instruments light turn on and off with the ignitions swtich, then know the main fuse and the ignition switch is good.

Tell us more what you find.

.
 
Last edited:
I took a volt meter to the fuse box to check that they are working and I wasn't getting the reading I should have gotten the main was 12.4 volts but the headlight nothing and the signals only 1.5 volts and the ignition only 6 volts but I might have done alil weird I will take a test light to it instead
 
Oh sorry 81 gs1000L and they are glass fuses and I replaced them today.
 
Scorp,

I have emailed you a schematic for 81 GS1100G that I have.

Notice how 3 fuses are connected together inside the fusebox (that should be the same weither 11000 or 1000 or G or L, I think).
You have at least one of those circuoits working (instrument) and at least one circuit not working (headlight).

Check for voltage at the fuses with a meter or test light probe.
If one okay and others not then unmount the fuse block and look at the back of it.


.
 
Yeah I got the email it kinda freaked me out i didn't know you guys could send me emails
 
Is it easy to just replace the fuse box with a new that uses blade fuses instead
 
Scorpion said:
Is it easy to just replace the fuse box with a new that uses blade fuses instead
Click to expand...

Yes and No.
Yes, that they are the same number of fuses.
No, in that the wirieng harness connectors are not the same. Would have to splice things.

Lets find out what your problem is first.

I previously didnt see that you did list voltage readings, now I see that.
THose reading seem suspect, like something strange with how you used the meter or something.
You said 0 volts on headlight fuse (and no headlight comming on), so that seems like an actual reading. That could be bad fuse (but you say you replced fuse) or maybe bad connection inside the fuse box.
I think on the glass fuse type fuse box you can take it off the bike and get into the back side to inspect.

You said real low volts on instrument fuse but also said the instrument lights are working, so that is why I suspect your voltage readings are not representive of what is actaully going on.
You have meter negitive lead on a good ground / battery negitive?

Yah, sometimes a test light is more uselfull than volt meter readings (and looking for bad connections is one such instance).

Do need to provide email address to register.
But dont have to have it available for any/all to use.
Go into User CP, is a selection somewhere for recieve emails or not.

Also in User CP is a place to enter your location so that shows up on all post, and most folks add what model/year of bike in the Signature Line so that shows up on all posts also. Makes it easier for folks to answer your questions.


Tell us more what you find. I'll check back in on this tommorow evening.

.
 
Last edited:
Ok I read that other thread koolaid Posted and I like the idea of just replacing the fuse block with the blade fuses, I went back with a volt meter and put the glass fuses back in and relized that the metal tabs were really loose, so I'm going to get a new fuse block and desire it after work tomorrow. Will take pics to post tomorrow.
 
Scorpion said:
Yeah I got the email it kinda freaked me out i didn't know you guys could send me emails
Click to expand...
Well, you have it in your profile, so yeah, it's possible.

Click on a username, you will see what options are available. Some do not have their e-mail listed, so it will not show. That is also an easy way to send a PM (Private Message) to a person.

.
 
Scorpion said:
Ok I read that other thread koolaid Posted and I like the idea of just replacing the fuse block with the blade fuses, I went back with a volt meter and put the glass fuses back in and relized that the metal tabs were really loose, so I'm going to get a new fuse block and desire it after work tomorrow. Will take pics to post tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Hey, good. You are making progress.

When you say the metal tab is loose, I assume you mean where the metal tab holds onto the fuse. As a temperary fix you could squeese the metal tabls closer together.
If you mean it is real loos where the tab goes into the fuse box, that is a different problem. Maybe could investigate further by getting access to back of the fuse box. Maybe a temperary repair can be made by soldering.

The fuse box in koolaid's refrenced post is an aftermarket generic fuse box. That will work. Will have to know what wires to connect where, and which fuses to connect together on the orange wire.

If you were to get a stock suzuki fuse box from 82 or later GS, say from ebay, it will have just a connector on it (not wires), so you will want to find one where someone has also cut the wiring harness and inclused that (not likley to happen).

.
 
I agree, Redman, that connector may be difficult to find.
Scorpion, the link I posted was just an example. I strongly suggest you run the query and make your own decision. Depending on the amount of room you have, a different design may suit your needs better. You will need a wiring diagram for your bike in order to make the changeover.
Best of luck.
 
My Haynes manual should be here in the mail today or tomorrow so then I'll have the wiring diagram ready. And I have lots of room to put in a different fuse box. I might not know much on how to work on the carbs but wiring up fuses or wiring up 12v systems is easy to me.
 
Ok so I went to autozone and got a new fuse block and all the parts for it. I got home took the old fuse box out and retested each fuse with the test light then volt meter and I got better results the main and power source have contest 12 volts and the top three get 12 volts when the key is turned on but still no headlight horn turn signals or start the bike
 
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