ate another stator

[DimitriT]

I was hoping this one would last a while since I replace the RR with a much bigger Honda unit.
It was reading a nice stead 14.5 to 15.0 for about a year since I did the replacement and I
thought maybe, just maybe, this is it.

Well this morning I noticed on my V-meter readout I was getting 11.2V. Knowing my bike, this
is a sure sign the stator has fried.

I know alot of folks have put much effort into figuring out why these stators go bad but at
this point I have resigned myself to replacing them every two years.

My question is: which is the best one to buy.

thanks!!!

 

[posplayr]

I was hoping this one would last a while since I replace the RR with a much bigger Honda unit.
It was reading a nice stead 14.5 to 15.0 for about a year since I did the replacement and I
thought maybe, just maybe, this is it.

Well this morning I noticed on my V-meter readout I was getting 11.2V. Knowing my bike, this
is a sure sign the stator has fried.

I know alot of folks have put much effort into figuring out why these stators go bad but at
this point I have resigned myself to replacing them every two years.

My question is: which is the best one to buy.

thanks!!!

See my link for the compufire series r/r and replace stator at the same time. There is also a sh775, but we don't have any conclusive test data on it yet.

 

[DimitriT]

So replacing the RR with a compufire will save me from frying the stator?

Looks good on paper.

Do we have testimonials?

 

[Steve]

So replacing the RR with a compufire will save me from frying the stator?

Looks good on paper.

Do we have testimonials?

Many testimonials, especially from those with higher-revving engines. Makes no difference if you have a smaller engine that simply turns faster at road speed or you are cranking through the twisties in lower gears. The higher engine speeds will maximize the output of the stator, requiring the R/R to dump that much more excess current. The series R/R (Compufire and SH775) interrupts the output, instead of simply shunting it to ground.

I am about to order a couple of SH775 units, so will be able to do some testing with them.

.

 

[Toasty]

The Compufire is a miracle product, it's expensive but worth it IMO.

 

[DimitriT]

Many testimonials, especially from those with higher-revving engines. Makes no difference if you have a smaller engine that simply turns faster at road speed or you are cranking through the twisties in lower gears. The higher engine speeds will maximize the output of the stator, requiring the R/R to dump that much more excess current. The series R/R (Compufire and SH775) interrupts the output, instead of simply shunting it to ground.

I am about to order a couple of SH775 units, so will be able to do some testing with them.

.

Hmmm... sort of fits what I saw. I dropped a tooth on my front sprocket recently to bump up my revs by about 500 at 70 mph. Could be that helped cook it.

 

[posplayr]

The pol is closed but I think people keep posting. See my link on CF in my signature.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=167939&highlight=stator+poll

 

[DimitriT]

So the new stator came in the mail today. I am now considering installing the Compufire
55402 R/R. Only question I have is will it fit on the GS550?

Can someone give the dimensions of the R/R?

 

[Steve]

It may not fit in the stock location, but it will fit somewhere.

The footprint is about the same as a stock R/R, it's just two to three times taller.

.

 

[Toasty]

It's also a bit wider, the stock bracket is about an inch too narrow.

 

[posplayr]

So the new stator came in the mail today. I am now considering installing the Compufire
55402 R/R. Only question I have is will it fit on the GS550?

Can someone give the dimensions of the R/R?

is 3 3/4"x2 1/2"x1 5/8"

listed under my Compufire Installation thread (I increased the size)


http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4094057/compufire-intall-pdf-june-5-2012-11-34-pm-548k?da=y&dnad=y

 

[Guest]

You may have to drill one new mounting hole and shave a couple of the cooling fins down to fit. That is what I had to do with my Compufire, though it did fit just fine after the mods.

 

[DimitriT]

One more question regarding R/Rs in general:

using a shunt type RR (like the Honda unit I currently have) would I get more life out of the
stator if I relocate the sense wire to allow the RR to generate a higher voltage?

Would this allow the stator to run a bit cooler?

 

[Steve]

Your stator is ALWAYS going to put out as much as it can. Its output is merely a function of engine speed.

With a shunt R/R, the stator will still put out all it can, all the time, it's just a matter of whether the current gets used in the bike or wasted while shunted to ground.

With a series-type R/R, the stator will still try to put out all it can, but the circuit gets interrupted by the R/R to regulate the voltage.
Because the actual output is now pulsed, the average output of the stator is lower, which is what adds to its life.

.

 

[posplayr]

One more question regarding R/Rs in general:

using a shunt type RR (like the Honda unit I currently have) would I get more life out of the
stator if I relocate the sense wire to allow the RR to generate a higher voltage?

Would this allow the stator to run a bit cooler?

As Steve is describing it the current in the stator will not change appreciably for a 0.25-0.5v change in battery voltage. You are better off routing an oil sprayer to the stator to provide better cooling.

 

[robertbarr]

With a series-type R/R, the stator will still try to put out all it can, but the circuit gets interrupted by the R/R to regulate the voltage.
Because the actual output is now pulsed, the average output of the stator is lower, which is what adds to its life.

.

Okay, so what type of meter shunt would I have to wire inline with one of the stator legs to get an oscillogram of the output, switched on & off at some rate -- probably pretty high -- by the R/R?

How much current are these carrying? 400W / 60v = 6.7, but that's DC. Can't be all that much, given the 18 gauge stator leads.

Here's roughly what I'm thinking of.

 

[posplayr]

Okay, so what type of meter shunt would I have to wire inline with one of the stator legs to get an oscillogram of the output, switched on & off at some rate -- probably pretty high -- by the R/R?

How much current are these carrying? 400W / 60v = 6.7, but that's DC. Can't be all that much, given the 18 gauge stator leads.

Here's roughly what I'm thinking of.

A clamp on current clamp would be better. I did the measurements here.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4066862/ssr-vs-fh012aa-pdf-may-31-2012-10-20-pm-903k?da=y

 

[DimitriT]

So I ordered the new stator and finally got around to it. Started by disconnecting the
old stator from the R/R. Turns out the connectors were completely melted.

I used fairly heavy duty spade connectors with plastic covers. The plastic was a black
ball of coal and it also melted a few other bystanders.

I went to my local electronics supply place (who sold the connectors) and we got to
talking. He mentioned that any corrosion on those connectors will lead to the R/R pulling
more current and generating more heat which will cause further corrosion. Eventually
the shielding melts and you get a short.

He recommended a simply go with crimped butt connectors, solder and some heavy
shrink wrap.

I tested the stator for continuity and got 0 ohms from all three legs so I followed the
advice of the guy at the store: trimmed the wires and soldered. Charging works great
again. Big Honda R/R got nice and warm as usual but not too bad.

We'll see how long it lasts. I'll hold on to the new stator just in case.

 

[83_450E]

If your R/R get's too hot from lack of airflow like mine because I put it in an odd spot
then put in an H4 HID hah
It can be cooled easily by fitting a small 12v fan to the heatsink. Simply pull power off the sensing wire, which should just be power when key "on"

 

[DimitriT]

If your R/R get's too hot from lack of airflow like mine because I put it in an odd spot
then put in an H4 HID hah
It can be cooled easily by fitting a small 12v fan to the heatsink. Simply pull power off the sensing wire, which should just be power when key "on"

Doesn't get too hot. You can put your hand on it for a few seconds.

I tried splicing the sense wire to the tail light but noticed the R/R was putting out up to 16V.
Didn't seem right. Not sure why the big voltage drop. I probably should clean the contacts
in my key switch (do I just spray some cleaner in the key hole?)

For now I have the sense wire right on the + terminal and get 14.5V solid.