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Bad kill switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter trucker
  • Start date Start date
Don't thank me until we have you back up and running.

11 something is still low. Do you have a battery charger to get that battery back up to a good charge? If so I'd put the battery on charge over night.
 
i would also download the service manual if you haven't already. i had the same problem with my 81 650g, and i found it by doing the ignitor test in the FSM. basically you take out spark plugs 1 & 2 and put them back in the plug boots and lay them on the head so they will ground out and spark. they you connect your mulimeter black lead to either the blue or green lead(i can't remember which one right now), and with the meter on the continuity setting, connect the red lead to the other wire in the connector. when you connect, #1 should spark, and when you disconnect, #2 should spark. if it's bad, then only one will spark. but yes, like jtgs850gl pointed out, you are not getting anywhere near what you should be getting to the coils, even if the battery is somewhere around 11vdc. you should be getting that at the O/W wires on the coils. one thing that you may have to do is the relay mod for the coils. i had to do that with my 81 kz1000 because i was also having the same issue as you are having with not getting the battery level voltage to the coils. i was experiencing a 3vdc drop in volts. but, before you hack and slash up your harness, clean every single connector and connection you can find because corrosion is a nasty beast and will wreak havok on your electrical system
 
so my battey with the ignition on was at 12.6 not 11 but I am going to try andt test the igniter here soon
 
Hello again so if I checked the igniter right, I put the 3 and 4 plug grounded to the heads and put the ignition key on I then disconnected the 2 wires from the signal generator to the igniter put ohm meter on ohm setting, I then put the red lead on the blue wire and black on the green wire while connecting the black to the green plug 4 was supposed to fire it did not while disconnecting the black from green it was suppose to fire plug 3 it did not now I tried this on the plug to igniter and the generator and I got nothing
 
For that procedure to work, you need to put the meter on diode or continuity mode. Regular ohms scale does not provide enough current to fire the igniter with most DVMs.
 
Look at the bottom of the ohms range where it says 200 near the 6 O-Clock position. One click counter clockwise, there's a symbol of a diode (triangle arrow pointing to a line). That's diode mode. It provides enough voltage and current to forward bias a diode and should provide you with what's needed to fire the igniter. The red lead is positive and the black lead is negative. If it doesn't work, then replace the meter with a 1.5V battery and do the procedure using that with positive=red and negative=black.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Look at the bottom of the ohms range where it says 200 near the 6 O-Clock position. One click counter clockwise, there's a symbol of a diode (triangle arrow pointing to a line). That's diode mode. It provides enough voltage and current to forward bias a diode and should provide you with what's needed to fire the igniter. The red lead is positive and the black lead is negative. If it doesn't work, then replace the meter with a 1.5V battery and do the procedure using that with positive=red and negative=black.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks I will try that again first thing in the morning
 
So I did the test again and I got nothing so I guess it is time to buy a new igniter
 
You started with the bike firing only on cylinders 1 and 4, until you moved the coil and now only 2 and 3 fire.

This indicates your signal generator and igniter are fine. It's your coil and/or plug wires that aren't working.
 
JayWB said:
You started with the bike firing only on cylinders 1 and 4, until you moved the coil and now only 2 and 3 fire.

This indicates your signal generator and igniter are fine. It's your coil and/or plug wires that aren't working.
Click to expand...
That right 1 and 4 worked I then swapped coils and then 2 and 3 worked. Now here is the deal with that I have 4 coils 2 from a parts bike the other 2 never gave me spark on 2 and 3 cylinder either. I did the multimeter test on all four and if I did them right they all 4 checked in bad lol makes no sense right cause one obviously works. The way I did it was put the red and black lead on the 2 wires from coil all 4 checked in at like 5.0 I then switched it to 2K on meter took one lead and put it in plug boot and no reading from any of them Wich i was looking for 10,000 plus reading.
 
Test the secondary winding of ignition coils by removing plug caps from spark plug wires, then stick your meter probes into those plug wires. With meter on 20 k range, you should see about 12 Kohms (12000 ohms). Plug caps can fool you due to corrosion. The chances of having 4 bad ignition coils is nil.
 
I think I tried that to but I will try again cause I don't remember but I thought have 4 bad ones was out of the ordinary
 
tom203 said:
Test the secondary winding of ignition coils by removing plug caps from spark plug wires, then stick your meter probes into those plug wires. With meter on 20 k range, you should see about 12 Kohms (12000 ohms). Plug caps can fool you due to corrosion. The chances of having 4 bad ignition coils is nil.
Click to expand...
Ha Tom I see you live in Maine I live right in Biddeford Maine myself
 
Hello all I am still at lost here I checked the coils again with the caps off with still no reading in the ten thousand plus range and with a different ohm meter so Yet again if I did it right all 4 coils are junk but yet one fires not sure if I should buy new coils or the igniter or both or maybe check something else
thanks again Mike
 
Pick one of your 4 coils, remove plug caps and snip off 1/4 inch from each plug wire. Using your innova meter on 20k ohm setting, stick meter probes into these newly snipped plug wires- you should see about 12 on display meaning 12000 ohms.

biddeford ? Bunch of suzuki owners with these old critters in southern Maine
 
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OK, let's take a step back and verify what is happening. You don't have 4 bad coils since you do have fire on two plugs.

The original problem was that you had spark on 1&4 but not 2&3. You then swapped the coils and lost 1&4 and got 2&3 to fire. When you say you swapped coils, explain exactly what you did and how.

You did verify the voltage at the coils Orange/White wire with the ignition on. At first it was very low voltage and then you say the voltage was closer to 11 volts. What is it at each coil with the ignition on?

You say you checked the signal generator but again How? What did you measure?

Did you verify the igniter in diode mode? How?

Again, as much detail would be of great assistance here since there are some assumptions that you're doing the above correctly but obviously not since the problem has not been isolated.
 
Ok so here is what I just went out and redid I swapped coils and got spark from both coils using the 1 and 4 wires but no spark in the 2 and 3 Wich tells me the coils are good.
I yet again re tested the coils by taking the red probe and connecting to the orange wire and black to the black wire and I got a reading of 5.0 I then switched the meter to the 20K and took the balck probe in put in the boot got no reading in both coils.

then onto the igniter I tested it with the 20 dollar meter and got no reading but checked it with 6 dollar meter and got a reading this time I put it on diodes and put the 3 and 4 plugs grounded on the block then i put the red probe on the blue wire and black on the green wire and got a spark from plug 4 when I took the black probe out I did not get a spark from plug 3 so I guess I have a bad igniter
 
Either a bad igniter or a bad connection. If it's a connection problem then it's either the line from the igniter to the coil or the +12V line going to the 2&3 coil. Does look like it's pointing toward an igniter related problem. Just to rule out a connection problem I'd verify the 12V at the 2&3 coil. If the voltage there is close to battery voltage with the ignition on then you should be OK there. The only other connection issue could be one of the two connectors that goes between the igniter and the coil. If all that checks out, then I'd go ahead and start looking for a replacement igniter.
 
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