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Bad kill switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter trucker
  • Start date Start date
T

trucker

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Hello all I have a 1982 gs 750 I have a bad kill switch and I have by passed it. would that be the cause of why my bike only runs on cylinder 1&4
Thanks mike
 
Nope. The kill switch feeds positive 12 volt power to both ignition coils and then also feeds the ignitor, so if you bypass switch, the coils and ignitor should both still get the 12 volts. Your problem is at coil connections or in ignitor or connections from signal coils (these trigger the ignitor). Cylinder 1 and 4 fire together ,as do 2 and 3 .Have a look at this link

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A17
 
Pardon my stupidity but why would you want to defeat a safety system (kill switch) instead of repairing it ?
 
Well cause I picked this bike out of a ditch from a friend house it is a project bike but i want to make sure she runs good before i put to much money and time into it there for why I have not bought a new one yet
 
trucker said:
Well cause I picked this bike out of a ditch from a friend house i.....
Click to expand...
Ditch? Did you find a helmet too?
P.S. I haven't used my kill switch in four years
if bike fell on signal coil side, start looking there.
 
Lol helmet and body wait that is not even funny
So I switched coils from one side to other and got spark in the 2/3 cylinder so I am going to assume I have some bad wiring from coil to igniter
 
I checked the generator and that checked in good but don't know how to check the igniter but I thought were I can get spark in one coil and then switch coil and get spark I figured I could rule that one out being bad but maybe not
 
I thought maybe running a straight wire from coil to the igniter would rule out bad wire do you think would rule it out
 
If you get ignition back, then that would do the trick. There are two connectors between the igniter and each of the coils.
 
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So I tried running a straight wire to the igniter and I got nothing so I'm assuming I have a bad ignitor
 
Before you go out to buy another igniter, did you verify that you have +12V (O/W wire) at the other end of the coil? Just curious as to what procedure you used to verify the generators?
 
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I watched how to do the test on YouTube don't remember exactly how I did it it ws done with my ohm meter how do I test the 12v from the Orange and white wires
 
Check for voltage at the coil end of the connector between the connector and ground. Check it with just the ignition on and then with the engine cranking over. Both coils should see close to battery voltage with ignition on and cranking. Expect the battery voltage to drop while cranking but should still be above ~9.5V.
 
I don't think i quite understand were you mean to check it so I should check the orange and white wire that comes out of the coil is that what you mean
 
trucker said:
I don't think i quite understand were you mean to check it so I should check the orange and white wire that comes out of the coil is that what you mean
Click to expand...

Yes. You want to make sure you have good voltage at the 12V line. The other wires are switched to ground to fire the coil. No switch, no fire. No 12V no fire. It's really pretty simple.
 
Ok I tested both from the 2 coil wires they are both 8.6 to 9.0 and when I hit he start button they drop to 7.0 to 7.4
 
That's very very low. What do you measure across the battery with the ignition on? Either your battery is close to dead or you have a lot of voltage drop between the 12V source and the coils.
 
I did not check the volts with the ignition on today but if I remember correctly it was like 11 something but I will double check it tomorrow I want to thank you for your help
 
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