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Baked on oil stain removal

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Baked on oil removal from the head and jug fins from leakge...anyone have a good chemical treatment to remove this fossil hard stuff? No worries as to finish on the jugs because they will be repainted. I was thinking maybe acetone??
 
Think it may be kinda hard to keep it on the engine long enough to be of any real effect?? Maybe soak some rags in it and stuff up in there.
 
Dunk one end in the can and then the other?

Rifle brushes chucked in a drill will get in between the cooling fins.

Maybe some of that hand cleaner will work. Kerosene?

Just guessing here.
 
Cant jam the head into a can of dip..LMAO at that one. I do like the gun brush idea though...may give that a go .
 
Get a paint bucket full of Diesel fuel, it will fit the whole head. Then go to town with the brushes.
 
If your not worried about the finish, what about Easy Off oven cleaner?
Specifically made to remove baked on greasy messes.


Tank
 
I can do the EASY OFF easily on the head. I didnt remove the jugs, as the base gasket wasnt leaking and saw no sense in going there. I guess i should have clarified that the plan was to use Simple Green to degrease the cases and the bottom and just repaint the jugs and head. I will do the head and if it looks good I will have to find a way to mask off the lower end so I can do the jugs and not harm the original finish on the cases.
 
I used to love electrical contact cleaner back when it had carbon tetrachloride. Spray it on and the stains disappeared into the air! They are probably still there. CRS Lecra Clean in the red can is still fairly decent, as is their brake cleaner.
 
When I cleaned the grime off my engine here recently, first I grabbed an old screwdriver and ground the tip sharp to scrape and loosen the grime, then I took some Berrymans carb spray and sprayed down small areas at a time and wiped it off, once I got done with that I used Industrial strength ZEP cleaner. Sprayed that on really thick let it sit for a few minutes and hosed it off. Worked better then I had thought it would.
 
I clean heads/cylinders by placing them inside a sealable 5 gallon pail along with a gallon of carb dip. Shake the pail every 30 min to splash around the dip. Takes a while but the dip will eat off all the crud, even the baked on stuff. I got the pail from a friend with a pool cleaning business - used to hold chlorine tablets.

Needless to say this technique won't work if the engine is still assembled.
 
Use oven cleaner at your peril.
It will damage chrome and will dis-colour metals.

Chuck old boy a barrel of diesel is your friend. I don't know if it will celan them nasty stains but its cleans carbon from pistons and heads if you soak em long enough.
 
I read a thread the other day about the product Totally Awesome.
Guess what? It was! ha ha
I just got done spraying down the 650, had some caked deposits on the front of the engine and some baked on stuff on the left most header pipe. I gotta say of all the spray on degreaser/cleaner products it really worked good. It melted the glazed stuff off the pipe. I actually sprayed the whole bike down and hit it with a couple different style bottle brushes. The product works. Minimal scrubbing. The engine came out really clean. Was also great on the calipers, rotors, rims. Everything.
$1.75 /32oz spray bottle at Wal Mart. Supposedly it can be had cheaper at some dollar stores. For the money its a great product to try. I will have this on hand at all times.
 
Have you tried WD40 yet? Soak with WD-40, scrub the grime with bottle brushes, etc. Then use degreaser to remove the WD-40 and the grime. Rinse off.
 
Heres some pics of the jugs..and yes Ed I would like to just get them scrubbed up and preped for painting as you see the state of tear down in the pics. I was planning on masking off the lower cases and tranny with duct tape and thick palstic sheeting..defunk and paint. I did do the head with the EASY OFF Jeepster...before i read your caution. Just as you said, the grease and grime washed off like butter running off a hot knife...BUT..the metal was a VERY dark grey. I took a green scrubbie and a kitchen knife and scrubbed the hell out of each fin with comet cleanser to remove the grey stuff. Looks nice and clean now and ready for paint. The covers will be taken off and polished as well before we stuff her back in the frame. I am doing all the things i can get done without any expense and then i will be on hold till I can somehow afford the 2 new intake valves ( see OTHER PROJECTS area for pics..."pretty nice barn find ).


005-15.jpg
 
AND i need suggestions on how to seal the cam journal towers back to the head. There was some knda sealer there from the factory to keep oil from seeping past the mating surfaces and running down into this well area. The well area vents to the outside air in between 2 sets of fins on the head, so oil has to be kept from seeping under the mounts......see the assembly and youll get the idea.


012-4.jpg
 
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AND i need suggestions on how to seal the cam journal towers back to the head. There was some knda sealer there from the factory to keep oil from seeping past the mating surfaces and running down into this well area. The well area vents to the outside air in between 2 sets of fins on the head, so oil has to be kept from seeping under the mounts......see the assembly and youll get the idea.


012-4.jpg

Chuck - you can try Purple Power spray cleaner on the barrels, but it's pretty strong also

Permatex makes a product for sealing those cam towers. I'm not sure which one it is, but they make a sealer for everything
 
Big T...I am thinking now that this oil leak was actually a 2 fold problem..yes there was blowby marks when i took off the head, but i think also the original sealer was failing...seeing that the bike hadnt been ridden in nearly 24 years and the fact that it is 40 years old!!! What do you think?
 
Wouldn't Mike's XS have the intake valves and perhaps over-sized ones at a fair price?
 
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