Banjo Bolt Pressure Switches

[850GT_Rider]

The front brake switch on my bike is definitely not impressive in it's construction. Simple, yet flimsy.

Who has converted to one of these? Any issues encountered?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAK...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415a1c4ce5

 

[Joe Nardy]

The front brake switch on my bike is definitely not impressive in it's construction. Simple, yet flimsy.

Who has converted to one of these? Any issues encountered?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAK...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415a1c4ce5

I have used these on a couple bikes, including my '83 GS1100. They work perfectly and have more than enough wire length and correct connectors to plug into the existing harness. The only (small) issues are that the wires make it harder for the rubber cover to fit over the bolt and the wires have to twist quite a few times if you need to remove the banjo bolt which could lead to a broken wire if you're not careful. These a re very small issues and, in my opinion, don't even come close to overriding the benefits of this setup.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[MAC10]

Z1 carries them.I replaced the oem switch on my gs and have never had any more trouble.

 

[850GT_Rider]

Thanks for the input.

For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.

 

[850 Combat]

Thanks for the input.

For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.

Good idea.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I put one under, at the junction on my 850 several years ago Works great

 

[DanTheMan]

I put mine on the master on my 850. Works perfectly, much better than that chintzy mechanical thing.

 

[portdave]

Put one on at the MC on mine a few years ago. Never had to touch it since then...

 

[850GT_Rider]

Thanks to all. Pretty much unanimous.

Given (a) how important it is that the brake lights work EVERY time, (b) how little confidence I have in that OE switch and (c) how inexpensive the banjo bolt pressure switch is, I'm going to put one in. Probably will use one in the rear too.

 

[Johno]

Put one on at the MC on mine a few years ago. Never had to touch it since then...

I was having a great run with my banjo bolt pressure switches both front and back but now they appear not to operate without significant brake pressure.

With the HEL steel lines I am running I don't require much pressure to achieve braking effect.

Is there any way I can have the brake light activate with minimal pressure?

It often appears to riders following that the brake light is not working

 

[Steve]

I was having a great run with my banjo bolt pressure switches both front and back but now they appear not to operate without significant brake pressure.

With the HEL steel lines I am running I don't require much pressure to achieve braking effect.

Is there any way I can have the brake light activate with minimal pressure?

It often appears to riders following that the brake light is not working

I noted that on one bike that I had with a pressure switch. Not sure if they come in different ratings or not, but I did not like the fact that you actually had to be ON THE BRAKES before the light came on. I prefer to have the mechanical switch (chintzy or not) so that it will come on with the slightest movement of the lever, even before the brakes are applied.

.

 

[Johno]

Does anyone have any advice on how I can increase the sensitivity of the pressure switch?

 

[AJ]

Trying to figure out why the pressure switch is better than the original mechanical motion switch. You can't adjust it. It's not that cheap. If it fails, you need to break into the hydraulics. It's hard to torque properly. It puts delicate wires out exposed where they are more likely to be hit and damaged. And this is better why?

 

[Steve]

Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

.

 

[AJ]

Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

.

LOL!

The one advantage I can see is if your controls are not stock Suzuki or somehow damaged so that it won't accept the stock mechanical switch.

 

[850GT_Rider]

I noted that on one bike that I had with a pressure switch. Not sure if they come in different ratings or not, but I did not like the fact that you actually had to be ON THE BRAKES before the light came on. I prefer to have the mechanical switch (chintzy or not) so that it will come on with the slightest movement of the lever, even before the brakes are applied.

.

I was the one who started this thread almost 2 years ago, so I'll put in my two cents....

I ended up with just the one banjo bolt switch at the front splitter. It has worked fine so far, and triggers with the slightest pressure increase.

The banjo bolt switch does have the disadvantage of requiring more clearance, so for the rear, I kept the mechanical switch because of the way the rear m/c is mounted.

I also found the threading on the banjo bolt switches to be somewhat variable, mostly too large. A banjo bolt would thread right in, but the switch wouldn't go in more than a couple threads. Had to return a couple of them for that reason.

I've got all the parts to do the dual-piston front brake mod, including a Kawa master cylinder. If/when I do that, I'll also utilize the mech switch in there, maybe in parallel to the banjo bolt switch. The Kawasaki switch is a self-contained unit - looks to be more robust than our Suzi switches.

 

[SVSooke]

Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

.

I hate the fiddly OEM switches.All mine are being replaced by these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-H...ccessories&hash=item338189ef82&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 .Good bye having to worry every time I take the brake lever off or other MC stuff.Thanks to this thread for reminding me I want to put a front MC kit and these on to the 85 750.

 

[Agemax]

I was the one who started this thread almost 2 years ago, so I'll put in my two cents....

I ended up with just the one banjo bolt switch at the front splitter. It has worked fine so far, and triggers with the slightest pressure increase.

The banjo bolt switch does have the disadvantage of requiring more clearance, so for the rear, I kept the mechanical switch because of the way the rear m/c is mounted.

I also found the threading on the banjo bolt switches to be somewhat variable, mostly too large. A banjo bolt would thread right in, but the switch wouldn't go in more than a couple threads. Had to return a couple of them for that reason.

I've got all the parts to do the dual-piston front brake mod, including a Kawa master cylinder. If/when I do that, I'll also utilize the mech switch in there, maybe in parallel to the banjo bolt switch. The Kawasaki switch is a self-contained unit - looks to be more robust than our Suzi switches.

sounds like either you ordered the wrong pitch thread, OR they sent you the wrong ones.

 

[Steve]

I hate the fiddly OEM switches.All mine are being replaced by these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-H...ccessories&hash=item338189ef82&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 .Good bye having to worry every time I take the brake lever off or other MC stuff.Thanks to this thread for reminding me I want to put a front MC kit and these on to the 85 750.

Just how often do you remove the brake lever? :-k

After the first go-around when you are sorting everything out, you should only have to flush the brake fluid ("other MC stuff") every couple of years (which does not require removing the lever) and you should only have to remove the brake lever when you drop the bike on that side and break it.

In my feeble mind, that is much like the arguement that I see so often for wanting to install pods on the carbs: "it's so much easier to remove the carbs". True, but here again, clean the carbs properly, you won't have to remove them for several years. I don't think that enduring all the aggravation of re-jetting for pods will offset the minor aggravation of removing the carbs ONCE every several years. But that's a topic for another thread, and it's my personal opinion (to which you are certainly entitled ).

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[cableguy]

Thanks for the input.

For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.

That's a great idea! Wish I had thought of that but oh well. It's behind the windshield enough, and I bet a 90 degree spark plug boot would fit.

I just added this to my bike mainly because the OE finally broke, and Z1 had a pressure switch for less. No brainer.