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Bastardizing A Tank, advice?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BentRod
  • Start date Start date
If you don't use enough hardener leave it somewhere warm overnight. It'll harden. I've been a panelbeater for 25 years.

Panelbeating is what you guys call 'auto body repairs' and a panelshop / panelbeaters is a 'bodyshop' I think.

Crazy Americans.

j/k
 
n1elkyfan: I'm definitely interested in painting instructions. I've been doing a lot of reading, but most places just say don't use rattle cans. mainly I'm finding conflicting advice on HOW to sand each coat. everyone seems to recommend 1500 then 2000 grit with each or every other lair of primer/paint/clear, but some say sand in circles, others say only sand in one direction... it's a tad confusing.
 
I painted cars for more than ten years and we never used anything finer than 1200 in a workshop that did mainly European sports cars.

There are lots of books on the subject.

http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/technical-restoration-bodywork/

http://books.google.com.au/books?id=G5e734HeR_oC&dq=panelbeating+book&psp=1

http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/technical-restoration-bodywork/page/query/plu/3610/

use - panel beating, panelbeating, vehicle painting, bodywork - as your search words in google.

I think they call it panelbeating in Europe & UK as well as here is Aus and NZ
 
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The actual painting of some thing is very easy and simple( they have robots do it in factories so it can't be to hard). The hard part is actually the setup to get a good paint job.

1.A. remove all that are not pemenitly attached to the part to be painted.

1.B. Carefully tape up any parts that can not be removed. Take extreme care with this step. This is what seperates an amuater from a profesional.

2. If the paint is old you will want to sand the entire surface in a x pattern using 320 grit.(An x pattern is were you make one pass across the part then make the next pass at a right angle.)

3. Spray one coat of sealer over the entire part. If it will be more then an hour till you can paint the part it will need to be sanded using 320 in a x pattern.

4. Remove the tape from and retape all the parts That are not to be painted.

5.Prep the part to be painted by first using a wax and grease remover then a tack rag.

6.A.You will want to use a spray gun for painting the best would be a HVLP gun(HVLP = High volume low pressure).

6.B. When setting up the gun you want to have it spray a long ovel. This can be achived by adjusting a knob on the gun. There will useally be two knob on a gun one for how far the trigger opens and one for adjusting the shape that it shapes.

6.C. You want to spray perfectly perpendicular to the surface about 12 inches away and overlap your passes by 50%. The other thing is that you have to bend your wrist and follow the curves of the part being painted. You can get used to this by putting your closed fist agianst the part and run it across to get used to following curves.

7. You will want to put 2-3 medium coats of color on your part. Making sure to let it tack up between coats, useally 5 minutes

8. Let it completely dry before applying clear. should normally be about 20 minutes but not more then 40.

9. Apply 2-3 medium coats of clear.

10. Let the clear fully harden before proceeding

11. Any dirt nibs you will want to lightly sand with 1500 or 2000 grit sand paper making sure to use water as you sand.

12. You will want to check with you local paint supply store when it comes to buffing componds. They will have the best information on how to use each type.
but some general rules would be.
A. Make sure if you have to go off an edge that it is spinning off the edge rather then on it.
B. If you can stay away from the edges.
C. Go slow.

You will make mistake as you go through this you will make mistakes. It would be a good idea to work on some practice parts that you don't really car about. And take this as a loose guide and an iron clad steps. Every paint company and sometimes diffrent product within a paint company will requir diffrent/special steps.
Good luck hope everthing works out.

 
Design pictures

Design pictures

Hey, thanks


...


So I had to do this in MS paint, but it shows the general idea

design may change a little, but this is where I think I'm going with this.
 
looks good just make sure to practice on some scrap panels before do the actual tank. When doing fine detail like that on the tank you will want to use some fine line tape. I just wish I was good at design I have no problem makeing the paint look good but I have a hard time coming up with a good design.
 
Go to a panel shop and ask them for a couple of old fenders to practice on. They'll be happy to give them to you (save space in their bin)
 
same boat brother

same boat brother

i've gotta do the same thing, not to happy about it :( no dents to fix but i've gotta fill in the places where the tank badges go :| un less i find a sportster tank first:-D building a bar hopper\\:D/ just take your time and do it right k good luck j.w.napier
 
my%2081gs400

Heres the tank again

I've designed a matching front fender.. well.. possible design. I like doing things on the fly. thanks to Chris for the fender.

my%2081gs400


I must say, the folks around here have been great inspiration

heres the bike as she stood on friday before we started pulling off parts
my%2081gs400
 
I'd be happy to help out with designs. I usually do them during my Economics lecture..

I'm pretty fluent on Solid Edge, and there is always good'l MS Paint. mostly i like to hand draw.

If anyone wants me to help them brain storm, I'd be happy to.


Let me know!!! I have a design hunger..



Ps: I used to do a bit of Tag and other graffiti from time to time back when i was more of a holigan. but only with biodegradable spray paint or chalk, and never anything offencive or even oppinionated..
 
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