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Battery/charging length

  • Thread starter Thread starter ninja407
  • Start date Start date
N

ninja407

Guest
Quick question(s): If a battery isn't being actively charged when running the engine, about how long would it last before dying?
If it's being undercharged how long would it last before dying?
 
It will last just long enough to make it a VERY long walk for help. :D

If that battery started fully-charged, and you still have the headlight fuse in, the bike will be drawing close to 10 amps. It might last about an hour.

If you pull the headlight fuse, you will only draw about 5 or 6 amps, but you won't quite double your time, so I would not count on more than 1 1/2 hours.

.
 
Great, I was thinking max 3 days, apparently much shorter than that. I was just worried because my battery died from multiple stalls/starts in the rain. I fixed that problem. New battery has been in for over a month and is fine.
 
Yeah, it could last for three days, but you would have to limit yourself to about 20-30 minutes of use each day. :p

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Hi, does data/test for electricial/charging system appear satisfactory for certain?Short list:have strong healthy body for pushing,don't have to be on time anywhere, good working cell phone, good friends w/trucks/trailers,AMA Membership(it now includes) W/MoToW, cash/creditcard etc,or did new/good battery solve/resolve problem situation? Always carry jumper cables onride for maybe good samaritan to help out if possible or you help another someday?
 
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I think some have missed your question (or maybe I did!).

You are asking how long the battery will last if bike is parked and not on a tender. Right?

If the battery is fully charged when you park it, under normal conditions it should stay charged for weeks, but general rule is to not let your bike sit for weeks between runs. In cold weather that duration shortens, and given how hard these bikes can be to start when cold, you'll want full power when you fire it up.

If you are asking how long you can get by with riding it when the battery starts fully charged, and the charging system isn't working...that is a different question. Without a doubt, assuming it fires right up when you leave home, when you park later and go to restart it you will have to crank and crank to get it to fire, thus draining the battery. more than just by riding it.

Yes, you can push start it, but eventually the bike will stop running, and you'll have to park, pull the battery, recharge it, install it and ride home.

I've managed to get to work and back (about 30 miles round trip) when my charging system was dodgy PLUS I had it on a tender so battery was fully charged before leaving..
 
I bought the bike in June, previous owner said the battery was only 1-2 years old, not sure how accurate that assessment was. But it turned over and started right up. However, it only ran with the choke half on. The first time I attempted to ride the bike home from work in the rain (August) the engine kept stalling out. I kept restarting, traveling one block at a time and the engine kept dying/sputtering out. This killed the battery (10-20 prolonged cranks). I parked on the street and took the bus home (luxury of living in NYC). I got a new battery, replaced the old one, shorted my ground wires, replaced those, got the bike running and rode home. Once I was back I figured out the half choke/stalling in rain issue; the throttle cable had too much slack. I adjusted that and now the bike runs great with no choke.

tldr

The old battery died. I was worried that it might be a charging issue. However my new battery has been in for 2 months with moderate riding. I was wondering how long a fresh battery would last if the charging system wasn't working properly.
 
i wonder more re:what charging system test reveals/data..then battery life lasting issues and possible/probable riding breakdown reliability issues won't be a nagging worrisome unknown,I been in your position and as have others,read forums.Never good to worry when good horse might falter and sometimes more important where falter...(location): who and what danger may surrond one etc.Check stator papers out,Mr,BassCliff's web/age/site/link..etc. Be safe,do checks etc. for peace of mind and reliability and enjoyment of riding nice Suzuki that you will worry much less about.Anyhow the more you deplete (near or complete) and re-charge the very best battery currently made...it can only take so many of these cycles,the number varies but many/some new car battery ,/APPROX. 7-10 of these cycles,battery weakens along the charge/deplete/recharge cycle and failure is eminent at some point.Battery kept at full/near/full condition at all times last to and sometimes beyond expected life span. Ex.OEM batt.in 96 GSF600S w/perfect charging system and some time on Yuasa micro-charger in downtime,I removed it from bike after 11yrs.it never failed,it was still "good"..BUT! .So results will vary.
 
The first time I attempted to ride the bike home from work in the rain (August) the engine kept stalling out. I kept restarting, traveling one block at a time and the engine kept dying/sputtering out. This killed the battery (10-20 prolonged cranks).

This is going to kill any battery, even a brand new perfect one ...
Deep cycle batteries are made to be run down deeply, our starter batteries are not.

If you do it and then take the battery home immediately (an hour or two ... not a day or two) and fully charge it properly you can probably save the battery with only minimal damage.

But if you run it down like that and it sits for any time it will be progressively ruined. The longer it sits the worse it is damaged.
 
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