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battery discussion

  • Thread starter Thread starter patrick
  • Start date Start date
P

patrick

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Have any of you bought a sealed battery for your bike? I'm so used to the maintenance and care involved with my standard battery (YB14LA2) and now that I need to replace my 5 yr old one, I'm considering the clean, closed route. Good idea, yes/no? (Circle one!)
 
Good idea, yes/no? (Circle one!)
OK

Circle1.jpg


:p

.
 
How can one go wrong with a sealed battery? I cant see why anyone would buy otherwise. NOt that much more cost wise.

I just *today* had to buy a new batt for the HD. 2 year free replacement 310CCA from Batteries Plus for 114 bux.
Have a Motobat in the 850. IIRC it's 210 CCA and I paid 60 bux (amazon)
Heard great reviews on the Motobat. So far so good.
 
Hi,

I've got three letters for you: AGM.

I replaced mine after 4.5 years, but it was still going strong. It might've lasted another year or two. I've been using Yuasa batteries.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I just bought a Motobatt AGM because I'm too lazy to keep up on battery maintenance. Liking it so far.
 
I have a Motobat in the 1100 going on 2 yrs now, so far so good.
My 08 Yamaha has a factory sealed battery, still good after about 4 yrs.
I have a Shorai in the 500, works fine but I'm still not trusting it completly, I never know what it's thinking.
 
I have a parts unlimited acid filled battery in the 850 that is 4 years old. Lucky for me the gsxr uses the same battery and i have it in that right now. Still cranking well.
 
I will NOT be going back to an AGM battery ever after yesterday.


I have a 1980 Suzuki GS750L, a new Ricks Stator and that Duesagne modified Honda R/R installed in the summer of 2010 along with a new NAPA brand battery. It ran flawlessly for 2 years.


This year one of my planned upgrades included a purchase of a "Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS" from batteryweb.com on 5/5/12. I have put less than 500 miles on her with the new battery and it is DEAD. Left me stranded at the gas station after a 50 mile commute home from work.

I had properly jumped the bike to ride her home for the last 4 miles and started testing. Once home and shut down I measured 12.6 volts plus or minus at the battery, but when key turned on voltage drops to 9ish volts. It would engage the solenoid, but would not turn the engine over. With key off the battery would recover to 12 something volts, which i believe is surface volts. I printed off the stator papers trouble shooting chart and it all points to a properly functioning charging system. (i used my OLD NAPA Battery for this test) and is currently in bike now.


I have email batteryweb sales to see if i have any sort of warranty or in store credit, we shall see and i will post an update to my request. In the mean time I am open to theories or suggestions of why this happened.
 
I will NOT be going back to an AGM battery ever after yesterday.


I have a 1980 Suzuki GS750L, a new Ricks Stator and that Duesagne modified Honda R/R installed in the summer of 2010 along with a new NAPA brand battery. It ran flawlessly for 2 years.


This year one of my planned upgrades included a purchase of a "Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS" from batteryweb.com on 5/5/12. I have put less than 500 miles on her with the new battery and it is DEAD. Left me stranded at the gas station after a 50 mile commute home from work.

I had properly jumped the bike to ride her home for the last 4 miles and started testing. Once home and shut down I measured 12.6 volts plus or minus at the battery, but when key turned on voltage drops to 9ish volts. It would engage the solenoid, but would not turn the engine over. With key off the battery would recover to 12 something volts, which i believe is surface volts. I printed off the stator papers trouble shooting chart and it all points to a properly functioning charging system. (i used my OLD NAPA Battery for this test) and is currently in bike now.


I have email batteryweb sales to see if i have any sort of warranty or in store credit, we shall see and i will post an update to my request. In the mean time I am open to theories or suggestions of why this happened.

If ya let em sit dead for too long they wont recharge no matter how new or old it is.
The BAtt in the HD was doing what yours was doing. 12.65 sitting but as soon as I hit the start button it would drop under 9 volts and would not turn the engine over.
 
I will NOT be going back to an AGM battery ever after yesterday.


I have a 1980 Suzuki GS750L, a new Ricks Stator and that Duesagne modified Honda R/R installed in the summer of 2010 along with a new NAPA brand battery. It ran flawlessly for 2 years.


This year one of my planned upgrades included a purchase of a "Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS" from batteryweb.com on 5/5/12. I have put less than 500 miles on her with the new battery and it is DEAD. Left me stranded at the gas station after a 50 mile commute home from work.

I had properly jumped the bike to ride her home for the last 4 miles and started testing. Once home and shut down I measured 12.6 volts plus or minus at the battery, but when key turned on voltage drops to 9ish volts. It would engage the solenoid, but would not turn the engine over. With key off the battery would recover to 12 something volts, which i believe is surface volts. I printed off the stator papers trouble shooting chart and it all points to a properly functioning charging system. (i used my OLD NAPA Battery for this test) and is currently in bike now.


I have email batteryweb sales to see if i have any sort of warranty or in store credit, we shall see and i will post an update to my request. In the mean time I am open to theories or suggestions of why this happened.

Just an update, batteryweb was GREAT to work with and sent a replacement immediately. I have yet to install the replacement yet
 
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