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Battery help

first timer

Forum Sage
hey guys, i am currently working on relocating my battery to under my swingarm on my 1000. I have run into a problem, i am running a yoshimura header and mid pipe right now and the header runs right down teh center of the oil pan to almost where the swing arm start, then from there the mid pipe moves to the side so i end up with about a 8" long X 7" wide X 5" tall , the tall seem to be the important thing here.

i found a gsxr 600 battery that fits my dimensions that i need i think,

Length: 5 7/8in.
Width: 3 7/16in.
Height: 4 3/16in.

but it has diffrent ratings:

12 Volt
8 Ah @ 10hr rate
120 CCA

from my gs 1000 battery:

12 Volt
14 Ah @ 10hr rate
190 CCA

do you think i could use the gsxr-600 battery instead even thou it has less Ah and CCA. I'm not looking to have tons of juice to keep cranking the bike, i plan on keeping it in top shape so only a little cranking will be needed, but will i have enough power to spin the motor, along with not screwing up my electrically system.

i MAYBE able to fit a gsxr-1000 battery in the space in talking about but it may get a little closer to the pipe then i want, here the specs on one i found.

Length: 5 7/8in.
Width: 3 7/16in.
Height: 5 1/8in.
12 Volt
10 Ah @ 10hr rate
180 CCA


On a side note can you mount gel (sealed) batteries on their sides this maybe another road i could take.

thanks for any help guys

-ryan
 
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Re: Battery help

first timer said:
On a side note can you mount gel (sealed) batteries on their sides this maybe another road i could take.

thanks for any help guys

-ryan

WestCo have sealed AGM batterys to some of our bikes, I use one of them myself.

It is possible to mount them in varios position, but upside down is not recommended.

http://www.westcobattery.com/index.html
 
Battery

Battery

I would not change to the gsxr 600 battery cause you are cutting your amps to much, cutting your reserve capcity I don't think will hurt you, you still have to run all the electrics, and on short hops when fired up cold you may still have a problem with recharging the battery to a full state, there are batterys that are smaller dimensional sized with the same capacitys ,you may go to yusa's web site and others to do the research, dont forget that the longer you make that positive cable, the more amps your going to need to drive the starter
 
Why do you want to put the battery down there? Too many negatives in my opinion.
It would run hotter because of the closeness to the pipe, it's only plastic...it may be in the airstream somewhat, but the engine heat could add to the heat problem...you would have to rubber mount it and it still may vibrate more down there...small rocks could fly up and hit it...I have to wonder what it would look like cosmetically...the longer positive cable as pointed out would not help things...and I wouldn't use a weaker cranking battery on the bike. There may be more technical reasons to keep the stock battery qualities too.
 
Kieth Kieth Kieth, you are thinking to practical :D i know suszuki had good reason to put the battery where they did. but i am not suszuki and am trying to make my self a yosh/wes cooley race replica. a key astectic of mine is i need that space where the battery and electronics go to be completly open. i am trying to maintain a horizontal line that is created by doing so.

i already have the electronics wire up all nice and neat and out of view now it's time for the battery as well, since i am not going to be running total loss system.

i am going to hopfully mount the battery to where the centerstand use to be i am currently working on a battery box made outa of some angle iron, and if i need to i can cover the battery box in some aluminum to protect it.

the posotive cable i am useing will strech from where it is now to where i need it to go and is the same lenght wire that was on the bike before i started messing with things and that worked then.

i have been thinking about useing a dry cell battery or gel battery that is designed for bad condtions but i am at a bit of a loss since i don't really know what i should be looking for and what all the numbers like

12 Volt
14 Ah @ 10hr rate
190 CCA

mean and what range of Ah and CCA I should be looking in.

-ryan
 
If you're thinking of using a gel battery there is no reason why you couldn't use two 6V- 7 amp batteries connected together in series ( + to -). That way you might have more options about where to hide them. Just a thought.
 
alright guys i found this so far i am goign to keep looking but what do you think of this so far.

550180 - YTZ10S Replacement Battery
$89.99
YTZ10S, Factory Activated, Maintenance Free ? 12 Volt - Motorcycle - ATV Battery, L 6, W 3.4375, H 3.6875(in) - Weight 7 (lbs), Regular Charge Current 0.9 (amps), 190 CCA

do battery brand matter, i found these on ebay for half the price with the same specs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4525950739&category=35594

-ryan
 
Cannot disregard Keith's advice, it is right on.

You may change the appearance, but you still have a motorcycle, and with this suggested very-low mount position, damage, perhaps destruction, is only one small 80 mph rock away.

And you MUST shield it from the heat.
 
What about wrapping it with Abestos or a safe alternative? Fiberglass? Header wrap?
 
first timer said:
i have been thinking about useing a dry cell battery or gel battery that is designed for bad condtions but i am at a bit of a loss since i don't really know what i should be looking for and what all the numbers like

12 Volt
14 Ah @ 10hr rate
190 CCA

mean and what range of Ah and CCA I should be looking in.
first timer, first timer, first timer. Why do you have to ask such hard questions? :? :lol: ? I have to admit, as many times as I've seen those numbers, I've never bothered to learn what they mean technically.
My Suzuki factory manual says: "This battery has a capacity of 14 ampere-hours on a 10-hour rating basis". The cold cranking amps is how much amperage the battery is capable of supplying for cold starts. The higher the number, the better. I think batteries with higher cca last longer too.
At least I understand now why you want to re-locate the battery. Maybe if you made another topic asking about battery terminology, we'd all learn something. Anyway, good luck with it! :)
 
hey guys just wanted to post a update, i got a YTZ10S Replacement Battery (YTZ10S, Factory Activated, Maintenance Free ? 12 Volt - Motorcycle - ATV Battery, L 6, W 3.4375, H 3.6875(in) - Weight 7 (lbs), Regular Charge Current 0.9 (amps), 190 CCA ) found one for 50 bucks i hooked it up and it spins the motor no problem, i'll see how it works while the bike runs, it should be ok as long as i am not just siting there with the lights on and the bike not running.

the the new battery box is installed as well and everything seems to have worked out well. not much room for errors but i was able to get everything to play nice. i'll see about some pics in the future.


-ryan
 
yaah...pics would be cool. I'm curious to see how it mounted down there.
 
here's the update, the above mentioned battery ( ktz10s ) works very well, i have not had a cranking problem yet, but my bike only takes a couple turns to fire, it has not over heated and i made it through this season with about 2000 hard miles on it. it has not over heated from the exhaust being so close, haven't ridden it in the rain yet so we will see next year if water is a problem.

here are some pictures of it mounted, sorry they are not the best, my bike is kinda boxed in and covered at the moment.

the last 2 pics are of the first battery i used, same as the one now, that one didn't do very well because i used it for a lot of cranking, short idleing and tuning which it seemed up to the job for, but then i just left it in the bike over winter and i think that finished it off. They are only 50 bucks being a generic brand. i would have been i little more upset if it was a yusa or somthing. i'll keep an eye on this post and try to help.

i left the pics big so you can get detail.

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/1.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/2.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/3.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/4.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/5.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/6.JPG

http://www.grimp.net/ryan/bat/7.JPG


-ryan
 
Anybody want to try thinking outside of the box? How about two gell 6 volt batteries. Mounted in series, You could mount one on top of the swing arm pivot and one in the tailpiece, Could use aluminum cables to save weight. The electrons will hardly notice that you don't have heavy copper cables. What do you think?
 
just an update, the battery is working good still, the first one died cause it was a crap 50 buck battery, bought a yusa and no problems since, it is currently spining the 550 since every thing else is apart.
 
Hi, Ryan!

My personal opinion is that if heat was going to be a serious problem you'd already know it because the plastic zip ties would probably melt before the plastic of the battery was seriously affected. If that hasn't happen you're probably in good shape. However, I would consider building a sealed battery box to keep the outside elements "outside."

Regarding other battery choices, I remember seeing a video where a custom bike builder (Matt Hotch) tested a new high tech lithium ion nanophosphate - LiFEPO Polymer battery by cranking a big custom V-twin motor continuously to see how long the battery would crank it. He wound up overheating the motor after continuously cranking it for something like 5-8 minutes! Normally a conventional battery will die within thirty seconds to a minute on these motors (according to him). The really cool part is the fact that these batteries are something like two thirds smaller (and lighter) than their conventional counterparts, so if you want a REALLY small battery these are the ones to look at. Predictably, they are extremely expensive, though!

Heres a link to the Tekbattery.com page that references Hotch and the torture test he put the battery through. It's pretty impressive. The link to the video is on the lower right of the page.

Regards,
 
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