Battery lessons needed

[portdave]

http://www.chromebattery.com/motorcycle-batteries.html

Chuck,

I just got a sealed battery (AGM) for 38 shipped. I figured I would take a chance. Not sure if they have what you want but you may want to check it out.

 

[portdave]

our search for:
Make: Yamaha
Model: TX
CC: 750 Street Series Twin 750
Year: 1973
Yielded 1 Item(s)

1 Item(s) View:
Sort by:

Compare
YTX20L-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery
SKU: M00008.00000
12 V
18AH
216 Watts
Lead Acid
Not Listed
$59.90
Add to Wishlist

I got mine from the same company but I got it through ebay....

 

[bakalorz]

I dont know much about batteries or what "questions" to ask.. So i guess what i need is pros and cons of all this new tecno stuff out these days. I mean if, say a lead acid averages 3 years for example and costs 60.00 and say a lithium one lasts 8 yers and cost 100. Whats the best deal for the best usable life...that kinda stuff is what im wondering about.

FWIW, a generic flooded wet cell battery should last as long as any other IF it's properly maintained.
(and your charging system is working right ...)

That means putting distilled water in it once a year, and putting it on a charger once every other month or so if you don't ride in the winter.

My Walmart special is going on 6 years and still works ok.
(and I talk a good game, but I'll have to admit to being so-so with maintaining it properly)

If your charging system is hosed, even the best battery can get toasted in a matter of days

the big advantages I see for the AGM is that it can't leak if you drop the bike, and the rate of self discharge is lower, so you can get away with not charging it longer if it sits ... if it's worth it to you then go AGM ... if you're biking on a budget, generic flooded wet cell can work just as well for a little less money ... my next will probably just be another walmart special ...

 

[chuck hahn]

Chargingb at the battery was 13.8 volts when i got it running with the GS battery. Good numbers there.

 

[cableguy]

The key to sizing is the number 16, which is the "group number" and will be a consistent component of the model number. So when you're gazing at the shelves of batteries in Walmart and parts stores you just need to find the 16, then buy the one with the most cold cranking amps (CCA). As previously stated you can't go wrong with a tape measurement of your batt box and noting which side pos and neg are on.

 

[Weeksz]

Ok I'm no electrician. So after read all of that..

The battery AH or Watts doesn't matter from bike to bike? CCA would be the same as AH?

-I'm shopping for a new battery for my '81 GS750L

 

[BigD_83]

Ok I'm no electrician. So after read all of that..

The battery AH or Watts doesn't matter from bike to bike? CCA would be the same as AH?

-I'm shopping for a new battery for my '81 GS750L

Quoted from an online source:

CCA is the number of "cold cranking amps" which is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0? Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery. CCA tells you something about plate size, and the connections between the plates, ie - how much juice the battery can instantaneously flow.

Amp hours is the total capacity of the battery and relates to items such as the number of plates. A 72 amp hour battery can deliver 1 amp for 72 hours, or 10 amps for 7.2 hours before the voltage falls to unusable levels. Note that 675 amps drawn for 30 seconds (as in the test for CCA) is equal to 5.625 amp hours draw.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Ok I'm no electrician. So after read all of that..

The battery AH or Watts doesn't matter from bike to bike? CCA would be the same as AH?

-I'm shopping for a new battery for my '81 GS750L

What matters is that you do not get one too small for the bike. We have a member who purchased one too small (not his fault, the salesman sold him the wrong one) and it pooped out on him partway through his cross-country trip. A bad thing IMHO.

 

[Weeksz]

What matters is that you do not get one too small for the bike. We have a member who purchased one too small (not his fault, the salesman sold him the wrong one) and it pooped out on him partway through his cross-country trip. A bad thing IMHO.

Ok so I guess my next question is.. What are you all running as far as Ah/w on your (specific)bikes? From experience what would you reccomend again-since obviously I can't trust the salesman.

 

[BigD_83]

Ok so I guess my next question is.. What are you all running as far as Ah/w on your (specific)bikes? From experience what would you reccomend again-since obviously I can't trust the salesman.

I think I currently have a 12 A-h battery (recommended) on my 650, that supposedly puts out 290 CCA. This one if I remember correctly:

http://www.saskbattery.com/ecommerce_042.htm

Decent price, and I haven't had any issues with it, but I have not had it long enough to recommend or not. The wet cell I took out of the bike, that the PO had installed was a 14A-h battery. I much prefer the AGM battery over the wet cell.

 

[koolaid_kid]

This is what one site lists for one brand of battery for your bike. AGM battery listing
It is a 14AH battery with 210 CCA.
Unfortunately, each manufacturer has a different nomenclature for each style ("regular" lead acid, Gel and AGM). The things to remember are the dimensions, the AH and the CCA. If you can find a listing for the battery dimensions that would also help you. This site does not list them.
If you can find a cross-reference for batteries, it might help you.
I personally run a MotoBatt AGM battery; it had the best combination of power, price and warranty (2 years vs. the normal 1 year).
Bought mine off eBay, but there are many more sources.
And no, you cannot trust the salesman, he could give a hoot. You have to do your own research.