Battery not charging at idle (new stator and r/r)

[gfpunto]

I have this problem from a while now. My GS650G it's not charging the battery at idle. Obviously I inspected the known suspects and examine stator and reg/rec, all in spec, but the problem persists. Recently I bought a new stator and reg/rec, but guess what? still not charging at idle.
When I ride on the city, with stop lights and traffic, the battery doesn't receive much juice, so eventually the bike stalls (unless I refit when stop) and won't start again because a dead battery.

An important thing to mention. If I remove the light bulb, all works fine, so I'm guessing it might be something related with that.

It's there any other component that I need to look at related with the charging system? I'm thinking the rotor, but I'm not finding much evidence on the web.

thanks!

 

[fastbysuzuki]

It sounds like it's not really charging at all. Do you have a multimeter if so put it on the 20volt Dc scale and connect the + to the positive terminal and connect the - to the negative on the battery take a reading at 1200rpm and at 3000 and 5000rpm and post the results.
i assume you have cleaned all the terminals/connections along with the fuse box. Not forgetting earths?
Have you had this bike for long or have you just purchased it?
Has this bike had this problem ever since you got it?
Do the quick tests and post results https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST/page9. Post#1

 

[LAB3]

If everything checks out then start with the basics, make sure you have good grounds. Take them off and clean them even if they look OK. Next go through all the connectors in the charging system to make sure they're clean and tight. You didn't say what year bike you have but I'm guessing the headlight isn't switched and is always on. One of the output wires from the stator goes through the wiring harness to what used to be the on-off switch for the headlight. This isn't used with the newer always-on headlight but the wire is still there. That wire will sometimes burn out and cause a short, most of us bypass that wire and rewire it directly to the regulator.

 

[gfpunto]

It sounds like it's not really charging at all. Do you have a multimeter if so put it on the 20volt Dc scale and connect the + to the positive terminal and connect the - to the negative on the battery take a reading at 1200rpm and at 3000 and 5000rpm and post the results.
i assume you have cleaned all the terminals/connections along with the fuse box. Not forgetting earths?
Have you had this bike for long or have you just purchased it?
Has this bike had this problem ever since you got it?
Do the quick tests and post results https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST/page9. Post#1

I took apart the wiring harness and cleaned up. Replace some connectors and back in.
I have the bike since a year ago. On day 2, I teared down completely y restored. I don't know if the electrical problem was there before, because as soon I stoped, the battery died and it was an incorrect one, so I replaced with the correct one.

If everything checks out then start with the basics, make sure you have good grounds. Take them off and clean them even if they look OK. Next go through all the connectors in the charging system to make sure they're clean and tight. You didn't say what year bike you have but I'm guessing the headlight isn't switched and is always on. One of the output wires from the stator goes through the wiring harness to what used to be the on-off switch for the headlight. This isn't used with the newer always-on headlight but the wire is still there. That wire will sometimes burn out and cause a short, most of us bypass that wire and rewire it directly to the regulator.

It's a '83 bike and yes, it is the now with the always-on headlight. I followed you advice of disconnecting the wire form the reg/rec that goes trough the wiring, connected directly from stator/reg and... wow, I don't see the battery warning anymore. The voltages on al the rpms are good. Why that could cause my problem... if it is that?


I'll go to take a short ride and see how it does.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Also be sure all of your grounds to include the one from the R/R itself are connected properly

 

[LAB3]

I took apart the wiring harness and cleaned up. Replace some connectors and back in.
I have the bike since a year ago. On day 2, I teared down completely y restored. I don't know if the electrical problem was there before, because as soon I stoped, the battery died and it was an incorrect one, so I replaced with the correct one.



It's a '83 bike and yes, it is the now with the always-on headlight. I followed you advice of disconnecting the wire form the reg/rec that goes trough the wiring, connected directly from stator/reg and... wow, I don't see the battery warning anymore. The voltages on al the rpms are good. Why that could cause my problem... if it is that?


I'll go to take a short ride and see how it does.

I'd suspect that the wiring going up the handlebars to where the light switch used to be is the culprit. It may be worthwhile to take the tank off and inspect the wiring harness (as best you can) for any burnt wires. Also, you might want to open up the headlight and also check in there since that's where the wire in main harness loops back to the regulator.

 

[gfpunto]

Well, after some miles everything seems to be as bad as before. But this time I was confident because the battery warning light wasn't turning on. This time I was in the city traffic and the engine slowly start to losing revs until it fully stoped (at idle). I tried to started immediately but it was to weak, so I figured the battery was completely dead. Wait a couple of minutes, try to started with some throttle play and it ran... bad, but it ran. I was able to get home, the engine stoped again, I waited almost 10 minutes, started and this time it start with no so much effort. The battery was at 12.7 volts and 12.2 with the engine running.

I don't know if this could be related with this charging/satlling engine issue, but this always happen to me when the engine it's really hot.

I?ll be checking the wiring harness again and will replace all grounds.

 

[alke46]

Well, after some miles everything seems to be as bad as before. But this time I was confident because the battery warning light wasn't turning on. This time I was in the city traffic and the engine slowly start to losing revs until it fully stoped (at idle). I tried to started immediately but it was to weak, so I figured the battery was completely dead. Wait a couple of minutes, try to started with some throttle play and it ran... bad, but it ran. I was able to get home, the engine stoped again, I waited almost 10 minutes, started and this time it start with no so much effort. The battery was at 12.7 volts and 12.2 with the engine running.

I don't know if this could be related with this charging/satlling engine issue, but this always happen to me when the engine it's really hot.

I?ll be checking the wiring harness again and will replace all grounds.[/QUOTE]

probably not necessary to replace all grounds, just give them a good cleaning and then follow up with some dilectric grease.

 

[zuluwiz]

Look for air leaks in the carb boots.

 

[LAB3]

Obviously something has been overlooked in the diagnosis of the stator and regulator. At the top of this forum section you'll see the "sticky" topic regarding diagnosing charging system issues. If you're absolutely sure you've done everything right and have eliminated problems in the wiring harness then start there with the "quick test" and let us know what the results are. As to the comment on leaking air intake, disregard that. A leaking carb intake will make the bike run poorly when hot but isn't going to kill the battery!

 

[Nessism]

Did you rewire the charging system to bypass the factory harness? If you didn't that's the first thing to do. Route the stator wires directly into the R/R. The power output for the R/R can feed into the normal place on the harness but the ground should go straight to the battery. Do that and then check DC charging voltage at the battery at 5000 rpm's. You should get from 14-14.5 volts DC. If not, you have a hardware issue with one of the charging system parts.

 

[gfpunto]

I was looking on some forums and blogs and I found some interesting experiences.

Obviously I need to re-check my harness and specially the grounds. Also I read that some guy has connected the ground wire of the r/r directly to the battery using a 12 gauge cable, instead of grounding it to the frame.

The most likely reason for my problem with the bike stalling when hot, are the coils. I saw a few guys having this exact same problem on some gs550's when the engine it's hot. I have new coils (aftermarket, but this problem was there with the originals), but a common issue it's that the coils are not receiving 12v, there's some drop in voltage and they're receiving 8-10v. So they recommend adding a relay to feed the coils with 12v. Also it appears to be a bad cdi box (igniter).

 

[Steve]

I was not aware that the 650s had a battery light. Might have been for the non-USA versions. :-k

No matter, that light had nothing to do with charging. That light only showed that the electrolyte level was low (but only in one of the center cells of the battery). The way to turn the light off is to find the sensor, which will be near the battery. Connect the wire on that sensor to one of the switched wires in the fuse box. When it "sees" voltage, it will think the electrolyte level is fine, and keep the battery light OFF.

.

 

[LAB3]

Checking the wiring and grounds, as first mentioned, is your best bet. Like the say "keep it simple" and stick to basics. As to asking around and coming up with several different answers I'll offer this advice: The folks on this forum know what they're talking about and know what they're doing. Staying with the keep it simple theme you're gonna straighten this out faster and with better results in the long run by sticking to those who truly know, not simply claim they do.

 

[tom203]

Please do the Quick Test and tell us all 6 results....note that you must start with a fully charged battery

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...System-QUICK-TEST/page2&p=1272192#post1272192

what type/size of battery are you using? If the battery voltage drops too much, the electronic ignition will be displeased .

 

[cowboyup3371]

Have you checked the ground off your R/R yet as well as the connections from the stator to the R/R? I have had two different experiences where I had either forgot to plug in the connector between the stator and R/R or I put the ground wire to the R/R on the wrong spot (bad labeling on the wire as I used red instead of black heat shrink).