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battery not charging

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nobody
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Nobody

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quick question here I have a GS850G here from about 84 or 85 I think
I have changed the alternator and also the Reg/rectifier unit for a honda one because that was was on it when I bought the bike so I sourced another one of ebay and purchased one that said it was for a CBR600
but still I have a charging issue as the battery is not taking a charge from the bike but it seems to be kicking out power and the only way I can get it to run is to charge the battery up on a home charging unit
 
Nobody said:
quick question here I have a GS850G here from about 84 or 85 I think
I have changed the alternator and also the Reg/rectifier unit for a honda one because that was was on it when I bought the bike so I sourced another one of ebay and purchased one that said it was for a CBR600
but still I have a charging issue as the battery is not taking a charge from the bike but it seems to be kicking out power and the only way I can get it to run is to charge the battery up on a home charging unit
Click to expand...
What does the voltmeter read when hooked to the battery terminals set on VDC? Idling? Revving it up to 5k? What does the voltmeter set on VAC read when you test the three stator leads, 1-2 ,1-3, 2-3 while running and increasing the rpm up to 5k?
 
as above^^ but seeing as all your stuff is new, the first thing is to double check you have connected properly...
Reg/rectifier unit for a honda one because that was was on it when I bought the bike so I sourced another one of ebay and purchased one that said it was for a CBR600
Click to expand...
ok, hopefully has Honda colour code- is 3x yellow for stator ,green to "ground", black to suzuki's tailight's wire(brown)? or any other "+" power that is switched on with key..(this is the sensor wire and tells the Honda regulator when to charge) double-check. Also, double check you have the correct new stator. If there was any doubt when you were buying it, be sure it has the same number of "poles" (aka: the number of "towers" with wire wound on them)

I ALWAYS go back to the last thing I did when things do not go as expected ...
 
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Me and a friend have check this now and what it's reading when the engine is raved is that with the regulator/rectifier disconnected is saying 13v but when it's connected to the battery it drops to 11v
is this due to a faulty battery because it's an old lead acid battery over two years old but when it's charge from a battery charger the battery holds the charge
 
If you did the quick test you would see that the battery needs to be charged.
 
Gorminrider said:
as above^^ but seeing as all your stuff is new, the first thing is to double check you have connected properly...

ok, hopefully has Honda colour code- is 3x yellow for stator ,green to "ground", black to suzuki's tailight's wire(brown)? or any other "+" power that is switched on with key..(this is the sensor wire and tells the Honda regulator when to charge) double-check. Also, double check you have the correct new stator. If there was any doubt when you were buying it, be sure it has the same number of "poles" (aka: the number of "towers" with wire wound on them)
Click to expand...

Yess all fitted correctly and its a the same alternator as what was in it with the same number of towers

posplayr said:
If you did the quick test you would see that the battery needs to be charged.
Click to expand...

Really as the battery is fully charged from the battery charger, but the problem is its not charging from the bike
 
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Nobody said:
Yess all fitted correctly and its a the same alternator as what was in it with the same number of towers



Really as the battery is fully charged from the battery charger, but the problem is its not charging from the bike
Click to expand...

The battery has to be in good condition and charged. As you did not follow the most basic instructions, I have to ask if you have any idea if "good battery" applies to you?
 
posplayr said:
I have to ask if you have any idea if "good battery" applies to you?
Click to expand...
This why I am asking on here if its a good battery or not and for the third time now the battery takes a charge from a charge but not from the bike
 
Nobody said:
This why I am asking on here if its a good battery or not and for the third time now the battery takes a charge from a charge but not from the bike
Click to expand...

So you have no idea, but you fail to do the most basic test to verify the battery.

As far as I know, nobody on the website is clairvoyant and can tell if your battery is good.
 
does anyone else have any ideas because of course I have done the basic tests otherwise I would not be asking on here
But I'm beginning to see why Posplayr has so many posts from reading his other comments on the forum so I think I will just ignore him now and await others with more positive responses
 
Nobody said:
does anyone else have any ideas because of course I have done the basic tests otherwise I would not be asking on here
But I'm beginning to see why Posplayr has so many posts from reading his other comments on the forum so I think I will just ignore him now and await others with more positive responses
Click to expand...

That would be a big mistake. Making the proper measurements is the ONLY way to verify what the source of the problem is.
 
Nobody said:
does anyone else have any ideas because of course I have done the basic tests otherwise I would not be asking on here
But I'm beginning to see why Posplayr has so many posts from reading his other comments on the forum so I think I will just ignore him now and await others with more positive responses
Click to expand...

Not a good idea. He's the electrical Einstein on the forum. Come on posplayr. Walk him through it.........
 
bccap said:
Not a good idea. He's the electrical Einstein on the forum. Come on posplayr. Walk him through it.........
Click to expand...

He tried to with his 1st response but the OP just ignored it.

It was even printed in "red" ---- Quick test.
 
Okay let's simplify. Nobody, do these tests { from posplayr's quick test } and report your results for the six tests. And then do whatever the Hell posplayr tells you to do.....

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
 
bccap said:
Okay let's simplify. Nobody, do these tests { from posplayr's quick test } and report your results for the six tests. And then do whatever the Hell posplayr tells you to do.....

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
Click to expand...

I know you are trying to help but you left off the most important part how to diagnose.
 
posplayr said:
I know you are trying to help but you left off the most important part how to diagnose.
Click to expand...

posplayr. I'm an electrical idiot too. { I had a hard time figuring out which part of the diagnosis meant what } But I know enough to do what you say to do. Can't you just cut the guy some slack and tell him if his battery is hooped when he posts up his results ?
 
bccap said:
posplayr. I'm an electrical idiot too. { I had a hard time figuring out which part of the diagnosis meant what } But I know enough to do what you say to do. Can't you just cut the guy some slack and tell him if his battery is hooped when he posts up his results ?
Click to expand...

I'm with you. I had already been stranded before listening to posplayr. Now I have no charging fears. He is the "blunt friend" that everyone needs. (But I am waiting to see what the "most important part" is). Haha
 
Take the battery to a local shop and have them load test the battery. If they say it's good, then you have a problem somewhere on the bike and not with your home charger. Your home charger is providing power to the battery while it has no draw. When your bike is running, your charging system may be putting out voltage, but not enough to over come the draw and charge up the battery. Also you may have something draining the battery, but since you have it on a home charger it doesn't drain the battery.
 
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