• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Battery probs.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rocketjock
  • Start date Start date
Yup.. I'm an idiot. I missed one important connection in the wiring diagram... I couldn't figure out why the drain was still ocurring even when I disconnected the connector before the switch. Low and behold.... I missed the connection... the one that goes to the Rec/Reg. I also neglected to see the melted tubing and the rust looking burn marks on the inside of the three wires coming from the Rec/Reg.

This is a really big bummer; looks like the seller flat out lied to me when I asked about any charging problems. Now I have a draining rec/reg which I'm pretty sure needs to be replaced, and a stator that doesn't seem to be charging well. Yay!


Thanks for the help Dave, I don't think I would have uncovered this nearly so soon had it not been for the help. I'll probably start a new thread when I'm done weeping. :|
 
DD. I still haven't done anything about my "problem". But, maybe I don't have a problem. Question is; Will a small 12V battery like the one in the bike hold its charge after sitting for, say, three weeks or is this a natural occurance? The bike has started fine since and to be honest, it's one of the things I really hate about the 80 GS750ET is the battery is really hidden away and requires removal of the air box to get at. I know, I'm just being lazy. DD. The advice given is invaluable and I will definately use it to check for any leakage when I get a chance.
 
RocketJock, I apologize for getting off track on your problem... I tend to read through these posts quickly, and sometimes don't pay attention to whether I'm commenting on the original post or one that comes in midway...
The battery I have in my GS850 was new when I installed it back in September of 05 even though it had sat on a shelf with the P.O. for a year before he gave it to me. It cranks mine up pretty easily even after sitting several weeks (as much as 5 weeks so far) at a time without moving. I think that ANY wet-cell battery large or small, will lose voltage if it sits long enough. It's simple laws of conservation. Energy tends to bleed away, friction tends to bring moving objects to a halt, etc.

Terminology can have us all at cross-purposes at times here as well... one poster asked if the battery was dead, or dying, you replied that it was not dead "Negatory. Battery hasn't gone dead. just not holding charge." In that case, I'd think you were both saying the same thing.... if it won't crank the engine, it's dead for all intents and purposes. My guess is that if you are on your third battery, and within 3 to 4 weeks of sitting, it won't crank the bike... I'd think you have a low voltage drain somewhere in the system.

How much time it's worth spending tracking down, is a whole nother story. Some folks would rather die than have even a small battery drain, like they'd be sleepless over 3 cents difference in their checkbook. On the other hand, there's folks that would just get a battery tender and keep it trickled up, feeling like if it gets them through the ride they want to do that day, they're happy.

If you're one to grit your teeth over a voltage drain (I am), try a few of the tests I mentioned earlier to J_C, and post back in and we'll wade into it with a clip on our nose and search till our eyes bleed :)

I'm always happy to find something to help on that keeps my mind of my dadgummed imperfect carbs.](*,)
 
Yeah that test and a wiring diagram is enough for even the least electrically competent of us to at least isolate where the problem is in the chain. Now what's causing the problem...... ;)

Thanks again DD
 
Battery

Battery

Usually a battery will read about 12.5V without the engine running. You should get 13.8V at about 3000RPM across the battery terminals while the bike is running.

Does your multimeter have the facility to check current. It will be marked by DcA (DC Amps ). If so connect it to the battery as follows. Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. Securely connect the black lead of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery. Then connect the positive lead of the battery to the red lead of the multimeter. Make sure to start with the largest scale on the multimeter (10A). The red lead on the multimeter usually gets plugged into a different place (normally marked 10A) on the multimeter. You'll have to start the bike first and then disconnect the battery to check it. Otherwise you'll probably blow the multimeter up. This test will show you how many amps your bike is charging the battery at. This depends on how flat the battery is. If you don't get a reading or it has a negative sign next to it, try swapping the red and black leads around. WARNING: Do not check Voltage with the leads in this configuration. Do not leave the leads in the voltage jacks on the multimeter and try to test current draw. Voltage is always tested in parallel (across terminals). Current is always tested in series (interrupt normal circuit with multimeter leads). If the reverse is done it will fry your multimeter. Also never check resistance (Ohms) with power on the circuit. Usually a good idea to make sure by checking for voltage first.

Your manual should tell you how many max amps your stator can charge at.
IF you suspect a problem with the stator then check your manual on how to test it. I have an original Suzuki manual for my bike and it gives detailed step for step instructions on how to test the charging system.

This current draw test can also be used when the bike is switched off to see if anything is draining the battery while the bike is standing.

Sounds complicated, but isn't really. Just double check where the multimeters leads go. The stator has three wires and if its unplugged should give you a low value Ohm reading between either of the wires. If that checks out then start the bike with the stators wires still disconnected and test for AC voltage between all of the wires. My manual says 18v.

Hope this is of some help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top