J
JStones
Guest
Battery died for the 2nd time while riding this week. Legs are getting stronger from pushing this damn thing. Battery is 3 months old and showing 13 when charged. so R/R right?
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F
FiremanBob
Guest
Or stator. Run the tests in the Stator Papers here: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm
1
1_v8_merc
Guest
If the stator is bad, i'd just buy a new R/R as well.....
They seem to die out or give problems as a Team, lol.
Because if you install a new stator and Still have charging problems, you either have a bad R/R or dirty connections....And I know that if you're running with a bad R/R, it can easily damage your New Stator!
They seem to die out or give problems as a Team, lol.
Because if you install a new stator and Still have charging problems, you either have a bad R/R or dirty connections....And I know that if you're running with a bad R/R, it can easily damage your New Stator!
You mean after being charged with battery charger- what about after a ride? Do the stator tests and pinpoint the problem.
D
dant-40
Guest
I had a similar problem. Battery was only charging at 13v. After cleaning all the connections and the fuse box, the battery is now charging at 14.2v. The dirty connections can cause a volt drop across them.
J
JStones
Guest
Thank you all for your replies. I will follow the stator papers. Pretty easy or a pain?
M
mrbridgeport
Guest
I'd steer clear of the electrosport stuff.
S
spyug
Guest
As you will read over and over, the GS charging systems are weak and are not helped when the connectors and contacts are not clean. Lack of good grounds, especially from the R/R are also another noted issue.
I'd start by thoroughly cleaning the contacts and connectors at the R/R and those into and out of the fuse block. Make sure the frame and engine grounds are good too and add an additional lead from the ground on the R/R (white/black) to the negative post on the battery.
Often that will solve the problem but if not you may need to follow the easy to understand Stator Papers fault finding flow chart.
Suzuki R/Rs are notoriously poor in comparison to others and you might have to change out the stocker for something in a Shindengen (Used on Hondas and Kawis). Mr. Matchless has created a vast list of suitable swappers so refer to that. On the last 3 Zuks I've owned I had to change each R/R and when you do you will notice the heat sinks on the Shinds are twice the size of those on the stockers. This is likely why the stockers fail....overheating.
Once you get it charging properly, I always advise adding a voltmeter to the bike so you can keep an eye on things as you ride along. No more surprises.
Good luck and keep us informed of how you make out.
Cheers,
spyug
I'd start by thoroughly cleaning the contacts and connectors at the R/R and those into and out of the fuse block. Make sure the frame and engine grounds are good too and add an additional lead from the ground on the R/R (white/black) to the negative post on the battery.
Often that will solve the problem but if not you may need to follow the easy to understand Stator Papers fault finding flow chart.
Suzuki R/Rs are notoriously poor in comparison to others and you might have to change out the stocker for something in a Shindengen (Used on Hondas and Kawis). Mr. Matchless has created a vast list of suitable swappers so refer to that. On the last 3 Zuks I've owned I had to change each R/R and when you do you will notice the heat sinks on the Shinds are twice the size of those on the stockers. This is likely why the stockers fail....overheating.
Once you get it charging properly, I always advise adding a voltmeter to the bike so you can keep an eye on things as you ride along. No more surprises.
Good luck and keep us informed of how you make out.
Cheers,
spyug
J
JStones
Guest
Any literature out there on adding a voltmeter?
NO- not exactly M/C batteries are so fragile an delicate you might have overcharged and warped the inner plates. messing up the batery with a overly powerful charger makes a weird one to diagnose because all the static tests will show a good battery.
OR
I have seen headlights wrongly wired to run both hi and low beam at the same time and kill the batt. in 15 miles after fully charging it in the garage. This too is a weird one because all the tests will be borderlinie good/acceptable.
and so you must do a D.C AMPERAGE and VOLTAGE check on your bike systems when running---- You must do a load test on the battery--- The A.C. stator unloaded volt test is only necessary if your D.C. tests are showing fault.
