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beautiful shine!

  • Thread starter Thread starter KitKat
  • Start date Start date
K

KitKat

Guest
hey all, i posted this before but i didn't get the answer that i was particularly looking for.

i know my PO has rattle-canned my engine side covers, i would like to get back to the aluminum shine that a lot of you have on your bikes.

If i use Aircraft stripper, i understand that it will remove the clear coat that was once under the paint... however, if i get some polish and "elbow-grease-it-up" will it looks similar to all your guy's shining machines?

i really do not want to clear coat, as i have no experience with painting whatsoever.

Thanks!
 
Yep, aircraft stripper will get you to bare aluminum (be careful, that stuff is pretty noxious), then use progressively finer sandpaper or steel wool and finish with mothers polish or similar. If you want to clearcoat, use a wheel grade and it will hold up better, but it's not necessary. You'll just have to repolish on occasion.
 
I've used paint stripper in the past..ket it soak and pressure wash it off..then sand the rest...or you could try brake fluid..depending on what paint the PO used it may work and isnt as toxic.


DDM
 
"elbow-grease-it-up" :lol:

errrr, a little understated........


Be careful what you wish for, but if you are dedicated it can and shall look like what you desire.


1. (easy part) aircraft stripper
2. sand 400 grit one direction until black spots/oxidation seems to have disapeared. (it might take 240 or 320 grit to work it out, but the scratches will be deeper.)
3. sand 600 grit perpendicular (90?) until you see the scratches from the 400 grit go away
4. sand 800 grit 90? until you see scratches go away
5. 1000 grit in the same 90? till scratches go away
6. 2000 grit 90? till scratches go away
7. buffing wheel is easiest and best to finish it off, white compound, but easy on the compound
7a. mothers polish does good, but takes more elbow grease, by this step elbow grease is nearly expended though

I just finished all the dern polishing I ever want to do in my lifetime.

Good luck!

PS. really it is just a matter of dedication, it will take a while, and the results are rewarding. Just remember the parts are old, and there is some compromise if the parts are not smooth initially. Deep dings or scratches may not come completely out without getting really agressive, and at that point the part may become distorted from too much material being removed.

There is only a point of perfection that can be achieved on some parts.
 
ill just use paint stripper then. less toxic right?

Use the aircraft stripper, i will have you at bare metal in 15 minutes. Just wear gloves, use in a well ventilated area, don't get on your skin. I have gotten it on my skin, it burns, not horror movie burn, just like a rash for a couple days.
 
"elbow-grease-it-up" :lol:

errrr, a little understated........


Be careful what you wish for, but if you are dedicated it can and shall look like what you desire.


1. (easy part) aircraft stripper
2. sand 400 grit one direction until black spots/oxidation seems to have disapeared. (it might take 240 or 320 grit to work it out, but the scratches will be deeper.)
3. sand 600 grit perpendicular (90?) until you see the scratches from the 400 grit go away
4. sand 800 grit 90? until you see scratches go away
5. 1000 grit in the same 90? till scratches go away
6. 2000 grit 90? till scratches go away
7. buffing wheel is easiest and best to finish it off, white compound, but easy on the compound
7a. mothers polish does good, but takes more elbow grease, by this step elbow grease is nearly expended though

I just finished all the dern polishing I ever want to do in my lifetime.

Good luck!

PS. really it is just a matter of dedication, it will take a while, and the results are rewarding. Just remember the parts are old, and there is some compromise if the parts are not smooth initially. Deep dings or scratches may not come completely out without getting really agressive, and at that point the part may become distorted from too much material being removed.

There is only a point of perfection that can be achieved on some parts.

This is the method for a show bike, the stock GS engine covers have a brushed finish under the clear which is roughly equal to 600 grit. I stop there.
 
7. buffing wheel is easiest and best to finish it off, white compound, but easy on the compound ...

I just finished all the dern polishing I ever want to do in my lifetime. ...

PS. really it is just a matter of dedication, it will take a while, and the results are rewarding.
Yeah, what he said. :o

The following pictures were taken before I started using aircraft stripper to start off, but you can see the results for yourself.

By the way, no sandpaper was used, either, it was all done with a buffing wheel and white compound.

IMG_7660.jpg


IMG_7661.jpg


2.jpg


smallP6166328.jpg


IMG_7315.jpg


IMG_7323.jpg


.
 
wow. thats some nice work steve!

i dont have a buffing wheel so i will be sticking to sand paper.

i like the fourth pic's clutch cover, the others seem almost chromish, and unlike some people, im not a fan of huge quantities of chrome (i love chrome exhausts though). that fourth picture looks like what i'll be aiming for
 
Yeah, what he said. :o

The following pictures were taken before I started using aircraft stripper to start off, but you can see the results for yourself.

By the way, no sandpaper was used, either, it was all done with a buffing wheel and white compound.

IMG_7660.jpg


IMG_7661.jpg


2.jpg


smallP6166328.jpg


IMG_7315.jpg


IMG_7323.jpg


.

every time I see your polish pictures I had a little seizure. WOW! You must have a good buffing wheel setup, my 6" bench grinder with bad bearings turned terrible polish jobs, replaced it with an 8" and still had some grain showing through. I found it easier to sand 200, 400, 600, #00 steel wool/WD40, #0000 steel wool/WD40, Mother's polish.
 
You can buy buffing kits at good auto stores and especially those catering to big rigs ( ever notice the polish on some of those babies). I would think stores like Harbour Freight will have them as it is similar to our Princess Auto Stores. They carry lots of buffs and different kinds of "rouge". Many of the buffs can be chucked up to normal hand drills and this is what I use.

After going at the piece with progressive grits of wet/dry as mentioned you can follow up with progressive grits of "rouge' from black through, brown, red, white and even blue for super polish if you are looking for that mirror finish. It is time consuming and dirty but it does give you a great deal of satisfaction when done.

For maintenance, I use AutoSol polish every couple of months and that's all you really need I think.

Have a go at it and if you use a hand drill try and get one with lots of rpm. The higher the speed the better (and faster) the polish comes up.

Good luck with it and show us what you can do.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Thanks you guys for all your helpful comments.

I will not be able to do any work to my bike anytime soon (high school :cool:)

but i am gathering a list of what i will do once i stumble upon some time:D
 
The wifes bike is looking GREAT, Steve !!!! ;)
Thanks. :oops:

Don't tell anybody, but I cheated.

Those pictures were taken 5 years ago, right after the bike was painted and polished. :-\\\

This is how it looked 4 years later (just over a year ago):
IMG_5311.jpg


Some day I'll have to clean it up and get some more decent pictures of it.

If I make it home long enough before riding season hits again, I have plans on changing some gaskets on her bike, so I will likely get the engine paint and polish touched up as well.

.
 
PICT1074.jpg


PICT1073.jpg


I spent last winter detailing out my dad's bike for him.


Here's my dirty pig. In this photo, I hadn't really finished polishing yet, but was anxious to get some "during" photos.

PICT1049.jpg



A lot of elbow grease went into both bikes...I've have some more polishing left to do on mine, hopefully I remember to get some pictures of her before I start riding in 2010.
 
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