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Before and After... and one question about removing intake boots.

  • Thread starter Thread starter providedrailroad
  • Start date Start date
P

providedrailroad

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Here's some before and after pictures of my Carbs cleaned, repaired, rejetted, new o rings. I want to thank everyone that has chimed in for the great support so far in the restoration of my bike!!!

I've removed the 2 outer intake boots. I'm still having a lot of trouble getting the inner 2 boots off, been using PB Blaster and an impact driver (on the top screws that I'm able to get at), and just can't get them to budge at all. I'm not sure what to do at this point, the carbs still seem to fit tightly. Do you have any tips for removal, or do you think it might be okay to just not fiddle with the inner 2? I'm just not sure if the benefit is worth the hassle or not at this point.

motorcycle%20carbs.jpg
 
You have to get em off lad. Those orings behind them need to be replaced or all that work you did on those pretty carbs will be for naught.
The boots are sealed to the head by those rings, if they're flattened out and crumbly, it will suck air around the boot and ruin your mixture. You'll pull your hair out trying to get it jetted right.
By the way, what did you go with for main jets and needle clip position?

Oh, a parting tip..if you can get the easier of each screw out on the two boots, many times you can grab the boot by the metal flange, and twist it round and thatll usually bust the screw loose...
 
Thanks CafeKid. I'll give it a go tomorrow when I feel less defeated by it, ha ha. I'm starting out with 120 main jets and needle position of 5. We'll see if that's too rich, thought about making it 4 but I figured better too rich than too lean. I still need to do a manual sync, am waiting for bottom float gaskets from Ebay (should have just gone with Z1....). I'm also going to do a valve adjustment before even putting the carbs back on. Also managed to lose the 8mm throttle gang screw I was having trouble with so I need to get a replacement tomorrow (that's why I haven't done a manual sync.

Uhm, this is a really stupid question..

I didn't pay attention to the tubing as well as I should have when I took it off... does the Fuel flow go to the tank or the petcock? Engine Vac goes to the petcock for sure right?

Can anyone give a quick explanation of how these lines should be connected to the petcock and fuel tank if I'm using pods?
550carbflow.jpg
 
If using pods, leave the vent lines off. Both the fuel line and the vacuum line to to the petcock. The vacuum line creates the vacuum needed to open the diaphragm in the petcock for fuel to flow. This is assuming you're using an OEM style petcock. If you're using a pingel or something else that doesn't require vacuum to provide fuel flow, you'll need to cap the vacuum port on the carb.
 
By the way I wouldn't bother with a vacuum sync until you get the jetting and needle position right. You'll have to re-sync every time you have to move the needle clip because you have to remove the slides to get to the needle. DO do a bench sync, which you'll also have to re-do each time. Lastly, I think you're needle position will end up very rich. And when moving the clip to LEAN it out, the clip goes UP away from the point, reverse to richen, toward the point. You do know that correct? Not assuming you're stupid, some people don't understand that..
 
TheCafeKid said:
By the way I wouldn't bother with a vacuum sync until you get the jetting and needle position right. You'll have to re-sync every time you have to move the needle clip because you have to remove the slides to get to the needle. DO do a bench sync, which you'll also have to re-do each time. Lastly, I think you're needle position will end up very rich. And when moving the clip to LEAN it out, the clip goes UP away from the point, reverse to richen, toward the point. You do know that correct? Not assuming you're stupid, some people don't understand that..
Click to expand...

Yes I understand that! you think I should bring it up a notch? they were originally set to 2, so that would be 2 positions richer. right now I'm at 3 positions richer.

What do you mean by bench sync?
 
providedrailroad said:
Yes I understand that! you think I should bring it up a notch? they were originally set to 2, so that would be 2 positions richer. right now I'm at 3 positions richer.

What do you mean by bench sync?
Click to expand...

I think you should lean it out a notch yes.
Bench sync is when you adjust the slide openings so they are all the same.
Basically, back the idle speed knob off so that it's just barely touching its linkage. Then use a straightened paper clip (or something of that nature) as a gauge. You want to adjust each slide with its sync adjuster so that it barely closes on the paper clip. This will get you close, and then a dynamic sync (aka vacuum sync) would be done with the carbs on the bike and engine running and warm to balance those openings to the vacuum pull of each cylinder..
 
As far as those pesky boot screws, I have had good luck using a screwdriver or chisel. Set the edge of the blade at about 1o'clock on the screw head and give it a few raps to force it counter clockwise.
 
For the inner two boots, I grabbed the head of the screw with a pair of needle nose vise grips and worked them back and forth until they broke loose. This was with the help of some PB Blaster. I could only grab (reach) one screw from each boot, for the other one, I just rotated the boot until it loosened. :)
 
TheCafeKid said:
I think you should lean it out a notch yes.
Bench sync is when you adjust the slide openings so they are all the same.
Basically, back the idle speed knob off so that it's just barely touching its linkage. Then use a straightened paper clip (or something of that nature) as a gauge. You want to adjust each slide with its sync adjuster so that it barely closes on the paper clip. This will get you close, and then a dynamic sync (aka vacuum sync) would be done with the carbs on the bike and engine running and warm to balance those openings to the vacuum pull of each cylinder..
Click to expand...

What do you mean by the idle speed knob so it's barely touching it's linkage? you mean barely screwed in?

I also had trouble understanding what was meant by:
"Install the idle screw knob with spring. After the screw contacts the pulley, give it another
two turns. That should be enough to allow the bike to start."

The idle screw is the single knob covered by plastic in the center of the carbs, correct?
 
providedrailroad said:
What do you mean by the idle speed knob so it's barely touching it's linkage? you mean barely screwed in?

I also had trouble understanding what was meant by:
"Install the idle screw knob with spring. After the screw contacts the pulley, give it another
two turns. That should be enough to allow the bike to start."

The idle screw is the single knob covered by plastic in the center of the carbs, correct?
Click to expand...

Yup that's the one.

The idle speed knob will open all of the slides at once. So when doing a bench sync you want to back it off so that it's not effecting the amount the slides are open so that you can adjust them equally.
 
keman said:
As far as those pesky boot screws, I have had good luck using a screwdriver or chisel. Set the edge of the blade at about 1o'clock on the screw head and give it a few raps to force it counter clockwise.
Click to expand...

After destroying a couple of screws and almost giving up as well, I used the chisel method this past weekend and they came off very quickly. Just made a notch in the head of the screw with the chisel, then angled the blade and hit it with a hammer in the direction of rotation a few times until the screws broke loose.
 
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